Storing Car for the Winter
#1
Storing Car for the Winter
Hi everyone,
This is my first year owning a 996 2001 C2, is it okay for me to just store the car in the garage, and periodically start it every 1 week or so, is there anything else i should be doing? I usually start it and let it run for about 10min once a week.
Thanks
This is my first year owning a 996 2001 C2, is it okay for me to just store the car in the garage, and periodically start it every 1 week or so, is there anything else i should be doing? I usually start it and let it run for about 10min once a week.
Thanks
#2
Hi everyone,
This is my first year owning a 996 2001 C2, is it okay for me to just store the car in the garage, and periodically start it every 1 week or so, is there anything else i should be doing? I usually start it and let it run for about 10min once a week.
Thanks
This is my first year owning a 996 2001 C2, is it okay for me to just store the car in the garage, and periodically start it every 1 week or so, is there anything else i should be doing? I usually start it and let it run for about 10min once a week.
Thanks
#3
For the last 2 winters, I have started mine (01, 996 C2) every 1-2 weeks. I would also run it around the block to get the tranny seals, brakes, shifter etc, working again. If the weather permitted, and the last two winters in Boston have, I would go for an extended drive. Remember, these cars have a hot dipped galvanized body and designed to take the winters of northern Europe. Lack of use in an older car can be detrimental as well.
Also, a lot of people put a trickle charger on them and lock them up for the winter. I personally have a hard time walking by the car and not wanting to take it for a spin regardless of the weather.
James Greer
Also, a lot of people put a trickle charger on them and lock them up for the winter. I personally have a hard time walking by the car and not wanting to take it for a spin regardless of the weather.
James Greer
#4
starting it once in awhile isnt a problem, but your battery will do better with a battery tender.
you don't need a big one. the battery tender junior works great, and the quick disconnect is very sturdy. we've used them for years.
i currently have 4 cars and 3 group 27 batteries on these small tenders.
http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Batter...=pd_sim_auto_1
you don't need a big one. the battery tender junior works great, and the quick disconnect is very sturdy. we've used them for years.
i currently have 4 cars and 3 group 27 batteries on these small tenders.
http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Batter...=pd_sim_auto_1
#5
If you're not going to drive it at all for 3 - 4 months like me here in Montreal, you should pour a bottle of fuel stabilizer into the gas tank and as previously mentionned connect a trickle charger to the battery.
On many other past posts concerning this subject, the general consensus is that if you are not going to take it out at all during the winter then it is better NOT to start your engine and run it at all so as not to risk building up moisture condensation inside and outside the motor.
Pete
On many other past posts concerning this subject, the general consensus is that if you are not going to take it out at all during the winter then it is better NOT to start your engine and run it at all so as not to risk building up moisture condensation inside and outside the motor.
Pete
#6
If you're not going to drive it at all for 3 - 4 months like me here in Montreal, you should pour a bottle of fuel stabilizer into the gas tank and as previously mentionned connect a trickle charger to the battery.
On many other past posts concerning this subject, the general consensus is that if you are not going to take it out at all during the winter then it is better NOT to start your engine and run it at all so as not to risk building up moisture condensation inside and outside the motor.
Pete
On many other past posts concerning this subject, the general consensus is that if you are not going to take it out at all during the winter then it is better NOT to start your engine and run it at all so as not to risk building up moisture condensation inside and outside the motor.
Pete
#7
My advice is do not start the car. Install a battery maintainer and leave it. The constant cold to warm conditions cause expanding/contracting plus moisture that sits in exhaust, etc... Plus the residual salt on the ground and in the air is NFG. Fill the tank as full as possible and park it. Use a cover if you have one.
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#8
Follow my recommendation above and you will have NO more moisture than if you let it just sit. Also, no matter what you do, moisture WILL form in the engine and running it periodically will wash the moisure off components helping to eliminate oxidation of both the engine components and cooling system. It is also better to let the car warm up and run as I suggested with the oil cap removed as this will remove as much moisture as possible from the pan. Reinstall the cap right before shut down.
#9
if you are worried about flatspotting you can use these:
http://www.tirecradle.com/
or these:
http://www.raceramps.com/flatstoppers.html
personally, i just drive my cars all winter. we don't get as much snow as you canadian and michigan boys. but if you havent done donuts in your porsche in the snow, you are missing out on a lot of fun.
yeah, my cars will have more corrosion and wear. but how long are you guys gonna keep these cars? they won't melt in just a few years!
i recently sold my 996TT with 56k miles on it. it was driven in heavy snow for two years. it cleaned up fine though, and i really didnt take much of a hit for doing it.
http://www.tirecradle.com/
or these:
http://www.raceramps.com/flatstoppers.html
personally, i just drive my cars all winter. we don't get as much snow as you canadian and michigan boys. but if you havent done donuts in your porsche in the snow, you are missing out on a lot of fun.
yeah, my cars will have more corrosion and wear. but how long are you guys gonna keep these cars? they won't melt in just a few years!
i recently sold my 996TT with 56k miles on it. it was driven in heavy snow for two years. it cleaned up fine though, and i really didnt take much of a hit for doing it.
#11
i don't live in a wintery climate... but... i'd do my best to run it every week and drive it for 10 miles or so if possible.
based on what i've read over the years, it's cars with very low mileage or those that get stored that tend to have trouble running trouble-free. do what you can.
based on what i've read over the years, it's cars with very low mileage or those that get stored that tend to have trouble running trouble-free. do what you can.
#12
i don't live in a wintery climate... but... i'd do my best to run it every week and drive it for 10 miles or so if possible.
based on what i've read over the years, it's cars with very low mileage or those that get stored that tend to have trouble running trouble-free. do what you can.
based on what i've read over the years, it's cars with very low mileage or those that get stored that tend to have trouble running trouble-free. do what you can.
Ben in the green.... am I seeing things?
#14
My advice is do not start the car. Install a battery maintainer and leave it. The constant cold to warm conditions cause expanding/contracting plus moisture that sits in exhaust, etc... Plus the residual salt on the ground and in the air is NFG. Fill the tank as full as possible and park it. Use a cover if you have one.
#15
i have one car, that's a 2003 with 4k miles on it (and the last 1000 were recent, as i was trying to drive it everyday).
anyways, that car has given me more problems than any of my daily drivers.
my sister's boxster which is a 2003 with only 19k miles has had more issues than my daily driven 996's (one has twice that mileage, and one had 3x that mileage).
i truly believe letting a car sit, is one of the worst things you can do with a car.