I was wondering for those of you who have the door speakers in a non-Bose system what you have swapped them with.
I am considering just putting in a 6.5" mid in the door and the tweeter in the dash and skipping the 4" all together. Has anyone done this and if so what door speakers did you use?
I normally use MB Quarts, JL Audio or McIntosh speakers so one of these will most likely be what I go with.

 

Use Focal 13KS in the doors, Focal K2 100 in the dash and 100CA1 for the rears, is what I use.

 

second the 13KS for the doors. i had em put in and they do a really good job considering their size.

 

Thanks, I will look into them.

 

scubadawg and Dead-eye

I just ordered 2 13KS subs for the door...how do you like them??? what amp setup do you have for them and your dash speakers???

 

I found a deal on a set of 13WS which are the models before the 13KS, I just got my car out of storage and will be putting the speakers in over the next couple of weeks. The front speakers are the Focal K2 100 and rear are the Focal 100CA1 which I picked up over the hibernation period.
Still waiting for the CDR-220 to 4 RCA cables to come in for the amp and the ipod connector, they were shipped last week.
As far as amps go, I haven't put 1 in yet, but it will be a 6 channel amp for sure. I looked at Audison, Zapco and JL Audio. I probably go inexpensive and go JL Audio, since I will only really listen to the stereo when on the highway. Love the sound of the Boxster engine

 

JL Audio is releasing a new 5 channel amp in June 2009. It is called the 900/5. It combines their 300/4 and 500/1 amps in one small digital amp.
I had planned on installed the new in the box 450/4 and 1000/1 JL amps I had been saving for my install but after seeing that I am switching up.

HD900/5 - 900 Watt Four Channel
Type: Class D, Five-Channel System Amplifier
Continuous Power in Five-Channel Mode:
100W x 4 @ 1.5 - 4 ohms per channel (Main Channels)
500W x 1 @ 1.5 - 4 ohms (Subwoofer Channel)
(11.0V-14.5V supply with <0.08% THD+N)
Continuous Power in Three-Channel Mode:
150W x 2 @ 4 ohms per channel (Main Channels)
500W x 1 @ 1.5 - 4 ohms (Subwoofer Channel)
(11.0V-14.5V supply with <0.08% THD+N)
Dimensions (L x W x H): 10.74 x 8.29 x 1.93 in.
273 x 211 x 49 mm
(Width Measurement Includes Plugs)

Available: June, 2009

Just thought I would share.

 

Are you guys running all new wires from the speakers to the amp? I started to run new wires but getting wires for the door speakers were a challenge due to the fact of the huge plug connecting the door electronics to the other side of the car.

 

Using an Alpine PDX amp to run everything in the car. dash speakers are focal polykevlars. everything is honky dorie so far.

 

thanks

 

13KS are amazing in he doors...real easy install!!!!

 

I have the older Focal 5WS in the doors, 100KP's in the dash and 100CP's in the rear, an older JL Audio E6450 (6-channel amp) amd the stock head unit. Sound is great. For the dash location you have to run new wires as the 100KP's are component speakers that come with crossovers so you need two sset of wires to each location from the crossovers (which I located in the trunk with the amp). I suppose it would be possible to locate the crossovers in the dash, but it would be difficult and kind of silly, no access to the adjustment on the crossovers. The door speakers, which are small enclosure sub-woofers, the existing wiring works fine. I guess a larger guage wire would be better, but alot of work. For the rears, the 100CP's are coaxial, so the existing wiring works as there are no crossovers, but built in resistors similar to the OEM speakers. As the rears are really just in-fill going to full components is probably not worth it.

The JL Audio is a 6-channel amp, but separates out the bass frequencies and blends both channels to both speakers. I ran new RCA cables (2 sets) along with a wire to activate the amp using the auto antennae feed from the head unit. Then tapped into the old wiring at the harness by the old amp location.

System sound great, with a significant amount of adjustment through amp, and the balance and fader at the head unit working. Not bone jarring base, but I never wanted this, don't need to shake the car next to me.

 

I was able to rewire the door speakers as i am putting some power to them...and i did not want to cut up the factory harness....it was a pain in the A** but its done...

 

i was thinking of just replacing my door speakers with the 13ks, i'm a noob when it comes to car stereos though

i dont need to be heard from 3 miles away but want an improvement on the stock non bose hifi system i have, my door speakers are very crackly so anything would be an improvement

it seems the 13ks is a fairly simple install, do i literally just unscrew the old ones and screw in the new ones ? if i'm replacing the door speakers with the 13ks subs do i have to replace the dash speakers also or will the current ones be ok ?

 

If you look at my threads you will find a step by step set of instructions