996 Track Car
#1
996 Track Car
OK, after debating on this for some time, I have decided to build a 996 Track Car. The early versions are getting low enough in price that I can't resist. The question is - which one to get and which options to look for? Any input would be great! Thinking of 99, 00, coupe, was there some differences in the rear differential, PSM, Engines, etc?? This car will go from street legal to SCCA stock class - slowly, as monies allow. Help - and Thank you!
#2
Well I'm sure I'll get flamed, and at the risk of being the turd in the corner, gotta say........ a 99 with 3.4 M96 engine as a dedicated track car?........personally I'd probably sooner pick a 993.
But good luck to ya
But good luck to ya
#3
Originally posted by GreggT
Well I'm sure I'll get flamed, and at the risk of being the turd in the corner, gotta say........ a 99 with 3.4 M96 engine as a dedicated track car?........personally I'd probably sooner pick a 993.
But good luck to ya
Well I'm sure I'll get flamed, and at the risk of being the turd in the corner, gotta say........ a 99 with 3.4 M96 engine as a dedicated track car?........personally I'd probably sooner pick a 993.
But good luck to ya
#4
No, don't do it. Do the build up in Excel after talking to someone who's done this before, and you'll realize you'll be into the car $85-100,000 even with a cheap buy, and it still will only be a production class car, like a GS and it will still suffer from the motor maladies remedied in the GT3 version powerplant--not to mention the GT3 chassis is a much stiffer structure to begin with. You'd be better off buying a real GS car already built, one with a fresh motor and freshly serviced brakes, shocks, bearings, etc for around $60-80k, save some money and avoid the months of headache. Better yet, buy a used GT3 race car from GA or ALMS for $70-100k (get it inspected thoroughly first to check for split seam welds, be sure it's got a fresh motor re-build and serviced cosumables and shocks) and have a solid powerplant and true race car platform to begin with. You can find these in the Racer mag classifieds, Rennlist, POC and PCA classifieds and others. You can even check with race teams directly, there's usually something or a customer race car for sale, check the race shops and prep shops too. There's a reason people haven't built early 996's into race cars often, it's not a good platform for it and costs nearly as much as a real race car when all is said and done, even with a cheap buy. I have a friend who made this mistake and now is kicking himself after several DNF's, and a car that nobody in their right mind wants to buy for anywhere what he wants to recoup out of it. Now he just got his GT3 Cup car and has a money sink sitting there that he's trying to figure out what to do with. Lots of money in parts and work put into the wrong car. If your goals are to race and become a great driver, you have a lot of good options, unfortunately this isn't one of those. The other comment about doing a 993-based car isn't too bad. The powerplant of the GT3, TT, GT2 are all rooted on that 993 block. Even so, if you were going the 993 route, you've got some amazingly good buys out there for top notch 993-based race cars in the $40-60k range, and you can't buy a really good late '96-98 993 for less than $40k. Look into this thoroughly and match the car to your goals, and pick peoples' brains who've done this before so you can learn from their mistakes.
Hey, if you decide you want cheap racing thrills, I've got a podium-finishing Spec Miata with full coil-overs and pro-built everything for sale for $16.5k and you'll pass most anything on the track.
Whatever you decide to do, have fun out there! And be sure to get a HANS and a really good cage! SCCA and NASA have quite a few guys out there that don't know how to keep from wearing each other's cars.
Hey, if you decide you want cheap racing thrills, I've got a podium-finishing Spec Miata with full coil-overs and pro-built everything for sale for $16.5k and you'll pass most anything on the track.
Whatever you decide to do, have fun out there! And be sure to get a HANS and a really good cage! SCCA and NASA have quite a few guys out there that don't know how to keep from wearing each other's cars.
#5
Originally posted by karlooz
why? you gotta back it up.
why? you gotta back it up.
To your question.....I'm thinking that no serious international competitor has ever used the M96 as a race platform (that I am aware of). Granted it's generalization but you can draw something from it.
Also......I'm not a wrench but the 993 block is basis of what's used in the 996TT, GT2, GT3.........M96 it is not. The whole M96 drivetrain design is dif........someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the M96 gearbox has any servicable internals (gears, bearings, shafts)......and the 3.4 cylinders/piston not replacable........bottom line is, alot of this is not rebuildable / servicable (as you would want if it was used for primarily the track).
A last generalization.....for the track you want something that's overengineered, or at least capable of withstanding more abuse......and when she breaks (and she will) you gotta be able to fix the baby w/out throwing it out with the bath water.
Just my opin......and again I love the 996 (but personally I don't track that car)......but also know many do, and enjoy them alot.......just the thought of making one a project car, purpose built for SCCA......well, may be just fine.........I was just commenting, you might consider a 993 while you are at it.
#7
Yep, $30k car, $30k motor = $60k...then you start building it into a race car. And when you're done, you're over the price of a GT3, but with a more flexy chassis, not a good match. The math for doing what you're considering doesn't work, lots of people have tried it and failed. People who have been racing for a long time, building race cars for a long time, and don't calculate their own labor hours into the equation, they just eat the hours, and the math still doesn't work out. Take your time on this one, do some research and shopping. Once you realize what you really need, you'll also recognize that there are a few people out there that have it, and are selling it for a good price. Inspection is super important, so find out which race shops in your area really know their stuff, ones that crew in ALMS, Grand-Am, and have built race cars. Plenty of prep shops that call themselves race shops will give a clean bill of health to a cleaned-up car that really has been hammered and dressed up afterward. The used race cars are good deals, but you have to find a good car to make it a truly "good deal". In So Cal, Callas Rennsport-Tony Callas, or Dennis Aase from Aasco are good bets, as is Dave Bottom up in San Luis Obispo. Where you are, contact S-Car-Go, TRG, or get ahold of somebody at PRC (Porsche Racing Club), they might have referrals so good shops that can inspect up there--and you might even talk to them about their 964-based spec class. Be sure whatever you consider buying is picked thru with a fine-toothed comb, because whatever they don't catch will come out of your wallet PLUS labor to remove/install, not to mention if it fails on track, you blow your entry and all ancillary expenses you put out to be there. You will be hard on your car on track, so might as well start with a clean slate and just have to worry about safety gear, race fees, tires, brake pads, fluids, prep, travel and hiring a guy from your local race shop to help you with set-ups so you don't struggle more than you need to when you're searching for more speed. Also, invest in a data aq unit, like an AIM MyChron; you can get one for less than a grand installed, and you'll learn from your set-up changes with numeric differences on track. But first...the car! Good luck and have fun out there. Racing is fantastic.
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#8
Listen to super d, you're talking about a major money pit.
After many years and a ton of money spent in all forms of class racing, some friendly advice, but take it for what it is, free.
Racing is a blast, esp when it's just for fun. Class racing by it's very nature tends not to be fun for folks with a plan like yours, and you're not the first or last either. it takes a ton of money, hours of tuning, trail and error, dyno(real engine dynos, not bs chassis dynos) time, chassis work to have a car that may never be competitive. All the best teams work year round, eat,sleep and drink racing and most lose money by the end of the season.
A better suggestion might be to set up a car, even a 99 996, for thr track and just have fun with it at DE's, maybe move into club racing when you're sure you really like it. It will cost a lot less money and heartache, and no DNQ's or DNF's
After many years and a ton of money spent in all forms of class racing, some friendly advice, but take it for what it is, free.
Racing is a blast, esp when it's just for fun. Class racing by it's very nature tends not to be fun for folks with a plan like yours, and you're not the first or last either. it takes a ton of money, hours of tuning, trail and error, dyno(real engine dynos, not bs chassis dynos) time, chassis work to have a car that may never be competitive. All the best teams work year round, eat,sleep and drink racing and most lose money by the end of the season.
A better suggestion might be to set up a car, even a 99 996, for thr track and just have fun with it at DE's, maybe move into club racing when you're sure you really like it. It will cost a lot less money and heartache, and no DNQ's or DNF's
#9
Originally posted by C4S Surgeon
Listen to super d, you're talking about a major money pit.
After many years and a ton of money spent in all forms of class racing, some friendly advice, but take it for what it is, free.
Racing is a blast, esp when it's just for fun. Class racing by it's very nature tends not to be fun for folks with a plan like yours, and you're not the first or last either. it takes a ton of money, hours of tuning, trail and error, dyno(real engine dynos, not bs chassis dynos) time, chassis work to have a car that may never be competitive. All the best teams work year round, eat,sleep and drink racing and most lose money by the end of the season.
A better suggestion might be to set up a car, even a 99 996, for thr track and just have fun with it at DE's, maybe move into club racing when you're sure you really like it. It will cost a lot less money and heartache, and no DNQ's or DNF's
Listen to super d, you're talking about a major money pit.
After many years and a ton of money spent in all forms of class racing, some friendly advice, but take it for what it is, free.
Racing is a blast, esp when it's just for fun. Class racing by it's very nature tends not to be fun for folks with a plan like yours, and you're not the first or last either. it takes a ton of money, hours of tuning, trail and error, dyno(real engine dynos, not bs chassis dynos) time, chassis work to have a car that may never be competitive. All the best teams work year round, eat,sleep and drink racing and most lose money by the end of the season.
A better suggestion might be to set up a car, even a 99 996, for thr track and just have fun with it at DE's, maybe move into club racing when you're sure you really like it. It will cost a lot less money and heartache, and no DNQ's or DNF's
#10
A light upgrade for DE should include essentials such as: racing brake pads and racing fluid, OE take-off wheels and R-compound tires, and of course the safety stuff. And don't skimp on your helmet, hans and roll bar or basic cage, assume you will have a bad day and flip the car or hit a wall, plan on walking away from that bad day, and most likely you will. The car and physics don't realize you're in a DE and not a race, if you hit 130mph on a straight (very realistic for a plain jane 996), you're moving 190 ft/sec. With a 40ft wide track and a pit wall 10ft off the front straight, if you take on a piece of debris and lose a rear tire, you've got a shot at hitting a pit wall very quickly and with very high level forces involved; if you're not protected, it can be very serious. People died at Buttonwillow and Thunderhill this year in cars no faster than plain 996's, and it's not worth losing all of your future fun days due to simple oversights. If someone tells you not to worry about it, and just to go out there unprotected, do not listen to them, they are fools. Be safe, don't spend too much on your street car beyond the basics mentioned above, get a taste of track driving for half a year, then start shopping for a good used race car. You can even go in on one with a friend and you two can share the prep work, pit work at the track, expenses, etc. Be sure and watch your temp on that 996, cooling is an issue, as is oil starvation. Even if you buy the Porsche oiling upgrade that comes from Andial, you still can suffer oil starvation and blow the motor. Once you move beyond basic DE stuff, don't push that car much farther unless you want to buy a crate motor or have a sweet extended warranty. Practice in karts when you get into racing, or even before you get to that point. It will improve your smoothness on track in your car, and sharpen your reactions. Have fun, and post something after you get going, so we hear how much of a great time you had!
#11
996 - 993 Track Car
First off - wow - thank you for the great info! I have learned more about P-Cars and racing in the last two years than my previous 40 years. I should have stated that I have been doing DE's for about 2 years now and that is why I have decided to get a project car. My Turbo is great on the track, but the constant thumping is going to take a toll and I would rather keep the car in good condition than trash it until it dies. I did install a harness bar and race harnesses along with a GT3 seat. I also upgrade to race brake pads, suspension mods and track tires. But the more I do this the more I realize that I need to just get a track type car and leave the turbo for the street (ok - once in a while a DE just for fun). I am also getting into Karting – to improve my driving. My first thought – which sounds like Super D has great experience with, is that I should not consider the 996 but rather an already built 993. It will take some time for me to get into and good at Club Racing, but that is half the fun! I would like to drive the project car on the street once in a while, but really want to use it at a lot more DE’s and then perhaps move into Club Racing. I won’t have the funds for a crew but just want to enjoy the occasional track times and not spend a fortune. That is why I first thought it may be better to go with the newer technology. Some people have told me that the 996’s are faster than the 993’s – if set up the same – is this not true? I have lot’s of friends I have meet over the years and several reputable race shops (one of them being RUF) in Texas, so I will be asking lot’s of questions and getting lots of suggestions before I take the plunge. With my goal being lot’s more DE’s and eventually getting into club racing – is it still your suggestion to get a 993 as apposed to a 996? It sounds like it is. I was thinking for about 50K into it I should have enough car to have a great time, until I get really serious. With a 30K 996 and 20K of mods – seems like I would have a good car for it? Would I be better to buy an already setup 993 for the same 50K? Of course I won’t buy it until I have one of the good shops really inspect it. Thanks in advance for you insight, Steve
#12
You're quite welcome, any time and I can say that goes for all of us. You can't get a 996 track car for cheap that will hold up, too many weaknesses, so you'd really need to get up into the higher $ ranges to get 996-based car that is a good track car as mentioned earlier. You can definitely get a solid 993 track car for that $50k range. The NASA 25hr was won by many laps this year by a 993 race car. Out in CA, generally the fastest club race cars are highly developed 993's, turning laps alongside GT3-RSR's, serious stuff. Of course, the best bang for buck has to be a good used Cup car. Both are good platforms in the true race versions. As for a street car to convert, 993 is better for that in terms of durability, performance, price, but again, try to get one that's done already and passes a stringent inspection. Btw, if you harness yourself upright via a harness bar and flip your car, you will "shrink-wrap" the roof to your head, not good. Go check out a 911 track car with just a roll bar that's been flipped, and see the roof shrink-wrapped to the bar, and you'll get a clear idea of the danger you're putting yourself in with a harness bar. Hopefully if you ever flip a car, you'll be protected properly. It happens, and much easier than you think. Don't skimp on protecting yourself, not worth the penalty when a bad day happens.
Last edited by Super D; 01-28-2005 at 12:22 PM.
#13
Steve, if you are talking about DEs and track days a 996 is fine IMO. You will need top line safety items as others have mentioned and I would strongly consider an oiling upgrade if you are running slicks. But even if you blow an engine you can replace it for 8-10K or less for a used engine, compared to 20K or more. The real problem with the 996 is not the engine, but the transmission which is "non servicable", that's a *****.
If you are going to seriously race, no street car will be competitive, not even a stock 993. I would consider buying a 996 Cup car or GT3RS in the off season, you could get into a real race car for $100K or so...
You might want to post this over on Rennlist, there are some guys with a lot of experience racing the 996 over there.
If you are going to seriously race, no street car will be competitive, not even a stock 993. I would consider buying a 996 Cup car or GT3RS in the off season, you could get into a real race car for $100K or so...
You might want to post this over on Rennlist, there are some guys with a lot of experience racing the 996 over there.
Last edited by TT Gasman; 01-28-2005 at 06:55 PM.
#14
Originally posted by Super D
No, don't do it. Do the build up in Excel after talking to someone who's done this before, and you'll realize you'll be into the car $85-100,000 even with a cheap buy, and it still will only be a production class car, like a GS and it will still suffer from the motor maladies remedied in the GT3 version powerplant--not to mention the GT3 chassis is a much stiffer structure to begin with. You'd be better off buying a real GS car already built, one with a fresh motor and freshly serviced brakes, shocks, bearings, etc for around $60-80k, save some money and avoid the months of headache. Better yet, buy a used GT3 race car from GA or ALMS for $70-100k (get it inspected thoroughly first to check for split seam welds, be sure it's got a fresh motor re-build and serviced cosumables and shocks) and have a solid powerplant and true race car platform to begin with. You can find these in the Racer mag classifieds, Rennlist, POC and PCA classifieds and others. You can even check with race teams directly, there's usually something or a customer race car for sale, check the race shops and prep shops too. There's a reason people haven't built early 996's into race cars often, it's not a good platform for it and costs nearly as much as a real race car when all is said and done, even with a cheap buy. I have a friend who made this mistake and now is kicking himself after several DNF's, and a car that nobody in their right mind wants to buy for anywhere what he wants to recoup out of it. Now he just got his GT3 Cup car and has a money sink sitting there that he's trying to figure out what to do with. Lots of money in parts and work put into the wrong car. If your goals are to race and become a great driver, you have a lot of good options, unfortunately this isn't one of those. The other comment about doing a 993-based car isn't too bad. The powerplant of the GT3, TT, GT2 are all rooted on that 993 block. Even so, if you were going the 993 route, you've got some amazingly good buys out there for top notch 993-based race cars in the $40-60k range, and you can't buy a really good late '96-98 993 for less than $40k. Look into this thoroughly and match the car to your goals, and pick peoples' brains who've done this before so you can learn from their mistakes.
Hey, if you decide you want cheap racing thrills, I've got a podium-finishing Spec Miata with full coil-overs and pro-built everything for sale for $16.5k and you'll pass most anything on the track.
Whatever you decide to do, have fun out there! And be sure to get a HANS and a really good cage! SCCA and NASA have quite a few guys out there that don't know how to keep from wearing each other's cars.
No, don't do it. Do the build up in Excel after talking to someone who's done this before, and you'll realize you'll be into the car $85-100,000 even with a cheap buy, and it still will only be a production class car, like a GS and it will still suffer from the motor maladies remedied in the GT3 version powerplant--not to mention the GT3 chassis is a much stiffer structure to begin with. You'd be better off buying a real GS car already built, one with a fresh motor and freshly serviced brakes, shocks, bearings, etc for around $60-80k, save some money and avoid the months of headache. Better yet, buy a used GT3 race car from GA or ALMS for $70-100k (get it inspected thoroughly first to check for split seam welds, be sure it's got a fresh motor re-build and serviced cosumables and shocks) and have a solid powerplant and true race car platform to begin with. You can find these in the Racer mag classifieds, Rennlist, POC and PCA classifieds and others. You can even check with race teams directly, there's usually something or a customer race car for sale, check the race shops and prep shops too. There's a reason people haven't built early 996's into race cars often, it's not a good platform for it and costs nearly as much as a real race car when all is said and done, even with a cheap buy. I have a friend who made this mistake and now is kicking himself after several DNF's, and a car that nobody in their right mind wants to buy for anywhere what he wants to recoup out of it. Now he just got his GT3 Cup car and has a money sink sitting there that he's trying to figure out what to do with. Lots of money in parts and work put into the wrong car. If your goals are to race and become a great driver, you have a lot of good options, unfortunately this isn't one of those. The other comment about doing a 993-based car isn't too bad. The powerplant of the GT3, TT, GT2 are all rooted on that 993 block. Even so, if you were going the 993 route, you've got some amazingly good buys out there for top notch 993-based race cars in the $40-60k range, and you can't buy a really good late '96-98 993 for less than $40k. Look into this thoroughly and match the car to your goals, and pick peoples' brains who've done this before so you can learn from their mistakes.
Hey, if you decide you want cheap racing thrills, I've got a podium-finishing Spec Miata with full coil-overs and pro-built everything for sale for $16.5k and you'll pass most anything on the track.
Whatever you decide to do, have fun out there! And be sure to get a HANS and a really good cage! SCCA and NASA have quite a few guys out there that don't know how to keep from wearing each other's cars.
A good example would be my race car. I bought a 89 944 turbo S for 12k then spent another 25k or more in the last two seasons to get it where it is today and it still needs some more cash to be set to go, maybe another 15 or so, so basically in the end I will have spent close to 55k with car and parts on a 16 year old car! Racing is expensive so def buy a well setup car that already has the work done!
#15
Don't ignore an older Porsche model with less hp. I find that the fun in track events has much more to do than the pure speed attained. I bought a 78 SC and turned it into a capable track car for much less than your budget. It's very challenging to get a good lap, but because of that it's also more rewarding than driving my 996 on the track. I also don't feel bad that I've stripped out the interior to fit all the safety equipment that I need.
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