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99 996 solid rotors?

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  #16  
Old 08-27-2010 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dervish
Really, I asked PF dealer for spec and they confirmed heavier than stock???
They are heavier with steel hats. Poster indicated he had aluminum. Maybe that's the difference?

-td
 
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Old 08-27-2010 | 10:35 PM
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Ok guys great info but from what I have gathered from you guys I think Im sticking with the OEM drilled rotors. At $114.00 each I guess I can live with the cracking and they will last a few DE events. $1100.00 for the fronts is a bit steep for me. For info, my 996 is strickly a track car but not a race car. I lack the hp to keep up with the TT so Im making it up on weight, suspension, braking and driving skill. Im using the hawk blue 9012 which have worked fine with me but I hear pagid is good and PFC ( I think thats right). I really don't care about how long will the rotors last. As you guys are aware the DE events give you about 4 30 min sessions. Im looking for some aggressive braking in order for some LATE braking. What do you guys suggest and some history please!!
Thanks
Al
 
  #18  
Old 08-28-2010 | 09:51 AM
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Curious were you fond the rotors for $114. Are they OEM of aftermarket?
 
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Old 08-28-2010 | 10:16 AM
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Sorry, they are Sebro and $119.00.
 
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Old 08-28-2010 | 12:41 PM
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I did this search a while ago and it was nearly impossible to find slotted rotors for a reasonable price around the OEM price. I just ended up purchasing some OEM one's from Sunset in Oregon or Washington - as the case may be.
 
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Old 08-28-2010 | 04:37 PM
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I believe raybestos have solid rotors and they run 75 a piece? I've never heard of them before though.
ATE also have slotted(not sure if they are slotted or drilled) ones for 110 a piece but I've never heard of these guys either.

Correction: raybestos are drilled also and fronts are 75. Not sure how good they are.
 

Last edited by geetee; 08-28-2010 at 04:53 PM.
  #22  
Old 08-28-2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by geetee
I believe raybestos have solid rotors and they run 75 a piece? I've never heard of them before though.
ATE also have slotted(not sure if they are slotted or drilled) ones for 110 a piece but I've never heard of these guys either.

Correction: raybestos are drilled also and fronts are 75. Not sure how good they are.
Are the ATE rotors 318s? If so, they would be a good alternative as well.

-td
 
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Old 08-29-2010 | 08:13 PM
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OK, now I have to ask a question. I was helping my friend redo his brakes, it had been 3+ years since I did mine, and saw that the OEM rotors are internally vented and cross-drilled. When you say solid rotors are you meaning that they are not cross-drilled, but are still internally vented? Or are you saying actually solid, with no internal venting? Now those really would be heavy.

Sorry to be so obtuse.
 
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Old 08-29-2010 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dharn55
OK, now I have to ask a question. I was helping my friend redo his brakes, it had been 3+ years since I did mine, and saw that the OEM rotors are internally vented and cross-drilled. When you say solid rotors are you meaning that they are not cross-drilled, but are still internally vented? Or are you saying actually solid, with no internal venting? Now those really would be heavy.

Sorry to be so obtuse.
Arn't all rotors for the Pcar's 2 piece internally vented? No?
I thought he ment no drilled no slotted just plain?
 

Last edited by geetee; 08-29-2010 at 08:34 PM.
  #25  
Old 08-29-2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by himself
Are the ATE rotors 318s? If so, they would be a good alternative as well.

-td
I don't think know. They had 6 digit part numbers. I went to rockauto any they had a variety of rotors but they were brands I've never heard of. I do need all 4 new rotors but I'm not sure what to get. The stocks are around 600 for all 4 but if there's anything out there that's equivalent and cheaper, I'm all ears.
 
  #26  
Old 08-30-2010 | 01:35 AM
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What I meant was yes solid rotors but from the feedback I have gotten they are heavy. I just put it out there to see if anyone has tried these out on the track. My OEM's would crack after a couple of DE events. I heard of solid rotors that worked well without cracking but maybe I was wrong. Thanks guys for the info. Al
 
  #27  
Old 08-30-2010 | 10:35 AM
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It's fine to drive rotors with cracks. They all do it. In fact, you can run them with pretty significant cracking as long as the cracks don't connect holes or touch the edge, they are fine. I would get cracks after just 1 weekend, and they would be dead in about 3. Which is why I switched to PFC.

The first pics below are rotors off my old C2, these rotors are not dead, but getting close. The last pic is Porsche's recommendation.

-td






 

Last edited by himself; 08-30-2010 at 10:40 AM.
  #28  
Old 08-30-2010 | 11:04 AM
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Thanks HIMSELF! Yeah thats what mine looks like. I run them also with minor cracks but once they crack toward the edge I replace them. Thanks for the pics - great job and help! What do the PFC cost for the fronts?
Al
 
  #29  
Old 08-30-2010 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by api3517
Thanks HIMSELF! Yeah thats what mine looks like. I run them also with minor cracks but once they crack toward the edge I replace them. Thanks for the pics - great job and help! What do the PFC cost for the fronts?
Al
Cost info is in an earlier post. Somewhere around $400 per corner.

FWIW, below are some pics I previously posted in another brake rotor thread. First set are cross-drilled rotors off my old car after only 10 sessions (2 days) and minimal street miles. Almost no wear, but significant cracking - even in the metal away from the holes. The second set of pics are the PFC dimpled rotors I upgraded to after 26 sessions. I ended up running these for almost 50 sessions (before I sold the car), and they was only minimal cracking.


CROSS DRILLED - 10 SESSIONS [same pics as above]






CROSS DRILLED - ALMOST NO WEAR ON ROTORS





DIMPLED - 26 SESSIONS - MINIMAL CRACKING



 
  #30  
Old 08-30-2010 | 02:59 PM
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Great, What pads were you running with both rotors?
 


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