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CEL blinking then it stays steady.

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Old 09-09-2010 | 09:56 PM
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CEL blinking then it stays steady.

P1128
P1130
P0430
P1121

These are the codes the just appears. The O2 sensors I know. I still have to put the simulator / spacer to trick the O2. And MAF is bad. I need to replace it.

The CEL light blinks then it stays steady within 10 seconds. Is it safe?
 
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Old 09-09-2010 | 10:47 PM
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blinking CEL means a misfire, but you dont have any misfire codes which would be p0300 thru p0306. if your able to read misfires with whatever tool you used to get those codes you need to use actual values and see where your misfire is if there is one. if no misfire i wouldnt be too concerned, still drivable. get your other known problems fixed asap and go from there.
 
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Old 09-09-2010 | 11:28 PM
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When I start it up and drive it it bogs. Feels like misfire but since I'm not throwing misfire code. What could it be that's making it bog. The cel blinks for a good 10 secs then it stay solid after that. Is the car driveable? I'm going to replace the MAF soon...
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 03:22 AM
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when my cars aos went out it gave me the p01130 and p01128... its either the aos or some type of air leak which can give you that bog. once the aos was replaced the codes were gone.. also read that it could be a leak in the oil filler tube...
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 08:22 AM
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Old 09-10-2010 | 08:25 AM
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Blinking CEL and a bog is definitely a misfire. Prob hasn't happened long enough to throw a code. Don't drive the car if its misfiring bad enough to make the light blink. it'll just cause alot more damage. Time to take it to a shop or invest in a durametrics scanner. You need a way to check all the individual cylinder misfire counters
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 08:34 AM
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A bad MAF will also cause 1128/1130 and easier to replace the the AOS.

Rick
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Old 09-10-2010 | 03:18 PM
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It bogs when the engine is cold... at 1k-2k rpm. then when its warm it doesn't bog anymore.
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 03:26 PM
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fix know issues then reset CEL and go from there. No reason to throw time and parts until you take out none suspects.
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Nine_Eleven
It bogs when the engine is cold... at 1k-2k rpm. then when its warm it doesn't bog anymore.
Mine was doing the same thing, bogging when cold and throwing 1128 and 1130. The new MAF fixed all issues.

Rick
99 996C4
87 944S
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rb101
Mine was doing the same thing, bogging when cold and throwing 1128 and 1130. The new MAF fixed all issues.

Rick
99 996C4
87 944S
I'm going to replace the MAF soon but I need to know if it really is the MAF. How do I check if the MAF is good or bad?
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 08:42 PM
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Thanks I will buy a volt meter and test it. What if the MAF is good. What could cause the bogging?
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 10:15 PM
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I added the cat bypass and muffler bypass so it definitely triggered the O2 sensor. That's all the mods so far. I'm going to install a O2 non-fouler on post cats.
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 10:45 PM
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The simplest, yet most effective, test one can apply to the MAF sensor is to clean it. Remove it with a TP-20, generously spray MAF cleanser on the thin wire, drys instantly, replace the sensor, and off you go. A $5 DIY that may surprise you. If that does not work, buy a new one. Regardless of your issue, a new sensor makes a huge difference in throttle response. Good luck.
 
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Old 09-10-2010 | 11:32 PM
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I have cleaned it once. Thanks. It's the bogging is what bugging me.
 


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