Any reason not to use decent coax speakers in the dash instead of component? And, no, I'm not spending $700 on Focal components. Any recommendations for either type?

 

Yo get plenty option on components between 150-300 bucks.Components will sound better and because dash speakers in 996 are the main mid and high delivery i would get the best possibly sounding you can afford (or willing to spend).

 

Anyone know if these will fit? Can't find mounting depth info:

http://www.amazon.com/CL-41-22-Class.../dp/B0048HDPW6

 

I'm using the CDT HD-642 series, depth wise they fit, the basket diameter was wide and I had to grind down the edges on the 4" to fit. I think the CL line ur looking at doesn't have as big a magnet as the HD series so depth wise it shouldn't be an issue.

Also the diameter of the basket of the CL is not big as the HD, my best estimate is they should fit.

Not sure about how much power is required on the CL, double check because if ur underpowered they may not sound to great. They like to use the watts

ALS

 

Hello but how much and 'the power of the radio /navi original ? 4 * 30 watts?

 

The Cl's fourempties listed are rated 80 watts rms, I would think the stock radio/navi would be underpowered, you'll get some sound but you would be defeating the purpose of upgrading the speakers. They should be powered by a seperate amp that puts out 75-100 watts of power a channel.

 

So with the oem radio system, you can put 4 + 4 tweeters woofer 30 watts rms?

 

I have not tried those, however do run 2 way CDT for the rear fill and they have great sound in my opinion but did require some trimming to fit and would not hesitate to put components in front. There service is top notch and have won many awards in the past.

 

I've actually combined the options.

I installed 4" coaxials in the dash to start with-nice upgrade for $80 from Bestbuy. Later, I bought a set of Polk components (5 1/4") and installed the woofers in the doors and then installed the tweeters from this set into the dash next to the coaxials.

FYI, I used the crossovers from the components for the tweeters, wrapping them in foam and dropping them into the dash. Passenger side fit easily, the driver's side required the protective cover on the crossover to be removed.

So. . . Factory dash wiring drives dash coaxials. New wire is bridged off the factory wire as an input for the crossovers and then tweeters run off crossover. Meanwhile, the door speakers use all factory wiring/set up.

Sounds good and is very easy as compared to a new head unit and/or amplifier.

I'm adding a powered sub next and will report back with results.

 

Doesn't the dash have components and components wiring with the factory system? I would know this, if I had taken the speakers out already but I haven't.

 

Yes, the dash has components but they dont use crossovers-just resistors for the tweeters.

Factory has one wire that feeds 4" driver and then the factory tweeter is connected to the spades of the 4" driver with a resister in line to eliminate low freq.

On my car, factory wire feeds 4" coaxials (Polk) and then a wire runs from the spade terminals of these speakers to aftermarket (Polk) crossover and aftermarket tweeter is wired to crossover.

This is kindof a complicated way to do it but I wanted to replace the door speakers and buying a 5 1/4" component set was the easiest and most economical solution. However, after I got the Polk 5 1/4" components then it seemed a shame to waste the tweeter so I threw it into the dash.