What's the best/easiest was to install and wire the factory rear subwoofers on a car that didn't come with rear subwoofers. Also, would rear subs from a 997 work on a 996?

Thanks in advance.

 

If you did not have the rear subs then you probably don't have the HiFi system or the Bose system with the HAES amp. To power rear subs you will probably need an amp as you need outputs that have only the lower frequencies to feed the subs. What factory system does your car have and do you have an Amp?

 

Thanks. I thought the stock Bose subs were self powered? My car is a '01 with the stock 220 head unit. I think I have an amp under the front bonnet behind a plastic grill next to where the cd changer mounts. I don't have any Bose badges anywhere though.

 

I do have subs in the door I believe

 

Just like I suspected, this guy has the same sub I have and it is self-powered.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...ofer-retrofit/

Any suggestions on how to wire it?

 

The install is complete.

My car did have the stock HAES 6 channel amp wired to two speakers in the dash, two in the quaters and 2 subs in the doors. The stock rear subwoofer has its own amp but needs a subwoofer signal. Also, the sub was stuffed before installation.

So, I made a 15ft loom and tapped it to the stock amp as follows.

B18 - rear sub (+)
B7 - rear sub (-)
A7 - 12v switched
B1 - Ground
B2 - 12v constant


as for wiring at the sub:

A2 + signal from amp
A3 - Signal from amp
A4 switched 12v from amp
A5 Ground connection (this is a brown wire)
A6 12v Power feed (this is a red/ brown wire)




Done!

 

I have the same Hi Fi Stereo in my '99 with dash, rear and door speakers powered by the stock HAES 6 channel amp.
Here's my question, can I go buy a Bazooka Powered Sub and wire it into the amp using the same wiring you did?

 

Clean wiring job but those wires look a lot like home electrical solid copper wiring insulation.

 

It should work although I believe the self powered bazookas' amp has a built on crossover. Not sure what would happen to the sound if you run it through a crossover twice. You may be batter off just tapping the rear speaker wires vs the subs.

Lol. Close, it's stranded.

 

As seen above it looks like you can make it work, but unless you're getting the parts dirt cheap, and wire it yourself, consider junking the whole think and starting with a double din head unit (Pioneer etc) and seperate amp and new speaker. It will sound way better, you get a Nav voice control system mere mortals can use, Blue Tooth, Great Ipod interface, DVD player, USB flash port and a back up camera option for when you go backwards ice racing in Sweden.

 

So I installed:

Pioneer App Radio: http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/2...A110/page.html

Active Amplifier bypass: http://caraudiosecurity.com/ct53-po0...system-adapter

Facia http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/prod...6-_p-27179.htm

Dash and Rear Speakers: http://www.jmgshop.com/9xx---porsche...akers-62-p.asp

Door speakers: http://uk.infinitysystems.com/produc...ppa-5211i.html

..........

Now struggling with sub wooffer / bass box options.

I have purchased a BOSE original bass (I like the factory look) .....

So questions:

1) I assume I will need an Amp?

2) Can I use the original one? Mine was the original amplified system but I guess now bypassed by the connects2 wiring?

3) What should I buy? Presumably I should then seek to run the other speakers off the amp as well?


Thanks

 

I have a BOSE equipped car, well it was BOSE equipped but that stuff all in a box now and converted.

I installed an amp where the CD Changer once went and it runs 5 channels, dash, doors and Sub. The head unit rear channel runs the rear seats. I looked at JL, Alpine and Kenwood and choose the Kenwood as it was the best fit in the available space. I used an XR-5S:
http://www.salectronics.com/shopexd.asp?id=1528

If you want one from these folks email them, but plenty of other sources for a few dollars more. Couldn't be happier with it.

You also need to rewire the speakers in the sub to be in series, not parallel. Its fairly easy to do with a soldering iron and a couple of bits of heat shrink.

No idea as to what the factory (non Bose) amp can be used for, but someone along in a min to help I expect :-)