Im looking at buying these double adjustable JRZ coilovers. Anyone have any info on how good they are.

 

out of curiosity - what do these run $$$ wise?

 

like around $3400 with springs and mounting accs

 

why not get pss9's?

 

The JRZ is 10X's the shock a Pss9 will ever be. If they are straight and in good shape... Go for it...
$3400 is a decent deal. If they are doubles.. Its a better deal

 

Fabryce, sounds to me like these new JRZ's are meant to compete with the Moton Clubsport in terms of price and perhaps even durability for the street. The race shocks look different.

 

if those are double adjustable then where are the lines and the remote resevoir/canister???

 

You might want to consider Penskes and/or Ledas. I haven't looked into these for 996s, but I did a lot of research on this for my 911 track car. Penskes are a bit less money and have a big following. One hot setup on a 911 is JRZs in front (as they deal wih the spindle issues) and Penskes in the rear.

You make no mention of how you use the car. If this is for the street, you are almost certainly wasting your money. If OTOH, you're on track and can notice that in turns 1,3,4,5,6,9 you were neutral while in turns 2,7,8 you were understeering, then you might be a candidate for ownership. I went with Ledas as they are also well respected and they are the only shock that allows you to add remote reservoirs and double adjustability at a later date. I was unconvinced I needed doubles, but I want the option to upgrade if need be. The cost needless to say was lessened greatly as well, around 2K for the set with custom springs. Again this is for an early 911, so its a bit pricier as they have to reuse the old spindles on the new strut. If you look closely at the picture below, you'll see the blank off for the remote at the bottom of the rear shocks.

 

I heard they're quite good. But I'd like to hear how good you are with your current setup... are you trying to improve your lap times at particular tracks?

 

no track time yet. im going to try and do that this year. i have been just adding things up to build a good beast.

 

if you do less than 15 track days, don't bother with jrz, moton, leda, penske or whatever. it's not fun on street.

if you do go coil over, stick with jrz and motons.

 

how about JIC? i like the idea of changing ride height without touching the springs.

 

hey carlos, u have adjustable seats right?

 

hardee harr harr

 

If you've never tracked your car, and its your intention to do so, I'd suggest you spend some time doing that first and then deciding on what you think needs improving. No one ever seems to believe this, but improving the driver first is the way to go. The reality is that its a lot easier to learn how to go fast in a low HP stock suspension car than in a 'done' high HP one. When you can truly drive what you have to the maximum or thereabouts, then its time to improve it.

But even if you disagree with that, consider that simply adding parts piecemeal is likely to wind up being less than satisfying anyway when you get to the track. You really need to plan in advance (hopefully with people who have real experience building these things) what you're trying to achieve or you're virtually certain to experience a lot of frustrations and waste a lot of money. A suspension is a system and there are a whole lot of pieces that go into making a good one (trust me I know, I've paid for them all and more than once!) Bushings, camber plates, monoballs, sway bars, springs, chassis stiffening, etc. Adding really precise shocks is largely a waste of $$$ if your control arm bushings are flexing or binding, for example. Double adjustables are the last piece of the equation. They are really for a highly advanced driver that is trying to fine tune the car for a particular and largely personal set of characteristics. To do so properly requires being highly sensitive to what the car is doing at or near the limit, taking tons of notes as to the settings, ambient tempatures, tire pressures, sway bar settings etc, and intelligently adjusting for the desired result. This also involves playing with spring rates, bar settings etc. all of which is likely beyond you at this point (it's certainly beyond me and I've been doing this for a few years). I've ridden with guys who can tell you as you apex that the front left needs another pound of air in it or the rear bar is a click too stiff. I ain't there yet, maybe if I ever am then I'll do the doubles.

Best of luck to you, and believe me when you actually get to the track you'll have so much fun, you'll be glad you saved the extra $$$ so you can spend them on doing more track days instead!