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Is the 996 a maintenance nightmare?

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  #16  
Old 04-11-2011, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RF5BPilot
It will be an interesting contrast to the Z.
I agree. Although the Z frustrates me maintenance wise it really doesn't cost me much because I do all my own work, save for alignments, and it is a hell of a lot of fun to drive so I can't imagine getting rid of it. The 996 seems like it will be a totally different kind of fun to drive. Both cars seem to have similar goals but different ways of getting there.
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:15 PM
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Thumbs up maintenance nightmare

i bought my loaded 996 at 50K, 4th owner, a real driver. at 85K is has been a pleasure, much cheaper my 964 to maintain. yes i did do some personalizing, big reds, 18's, 3 spoke airbag wheel, etc. when i did the PPI, the RMS was seeping a tiny tiny bit. since the clutch and flywheel were due soon, i did it all. now dry as a bone. way under priced because of the bad rep of the RMS problem, so you should take some of the savings, and put it aside,- just in case.
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:08 PM
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Maintenace

I bought an '02 targa with 52K miles a few months ago - it had IMS, RMS and Clutch done at 30K. Did PPI - they found Radio not working (upgraded to double DIN Pioneer) - worn trunk shock ($50 to replace), mismatched tire (replaced with used P Zero from ebay for $55), a couple of minor dings and scratches (will go to the ding doctor one of these days), broken indicator stalk (apparently a common problem - about $300 parts and $200-$300 labor to fix - but looks like fairly easy DIY). So far running great - I did oil change at local Porsche specialist (indie) - he noted cruise control switch not working (OK I don't use cruise), slight water stain near water pump and AOS (but I've been watching water level and it is not doing down - so I'll leave for now), cleaned radiators for me, told me passenger side window regulator is going (window still works, but does not automatically lower when you open the door like driver's side does). My turn signal just went out (still troubleshooting that one) - but mostly minor issues so far. I figure a few $K a year to run a car like this is normal (my Toyota costs me almost nothing) - if you buy a new one you will pay $10K+ a year on depreciation - so a used one even with common maintenance issues is still a bargain. If I have to do clutch again I may consider IMS upgrade - that is probably a $4K-$5K job total for clutch, flywheel and IMS - but if you get another 5 years (say 50K) out of the engine works out as pretty cheap insurance. The car is so fun to drive - so worth the relatively small investment. A Japanese car will be no maintenance - I had a 300ZX before - but can't really compare that to a Porsche. Drove my friend's NSX - which has to be flogged to get performance out of it - and still looks like a Honda inside.
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:00 AM
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coming for a c5 going to a 996 ....its hard to say ....u dont get the same felling in a 911 then u do in a z06...

vettes feel like they have raw power and you sit nice and low in the ****pit ...

911 feel good around the turns and has a nice feeling over all...


as far as maintenance i would say pretty close...as far as cost...or diy ...

keep the z and buy a 911 and then if u feel yourself not using one sell it
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:35 AM
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After reading the responses in this thread and doing even more research I just want the car even more. It seems to fill exactly the spot I am looking to fill. The goal is to pay cash for the car. The challenge will be holding off on the purchase until I can reasonably do that.
 
  #21  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:44 AM
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Have fun shopping!
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:59 AM
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if you have your heart set on a 996 C2, my recommendation would be to find the cheapest '04 996 C2 you can and dont be afraid of high mileage. You're far better off with a high mileage '04 996 C2 than a garage queen '99 996 C2 with low mileage.
 
  #23  
Old 04-20-2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by split
if you have your heart set on a 996 C2, my recommendation would be to find the cheapest '04 996 C2 you can and dont be afraid of high mileage. You're far better off with a high mileage '04 996 C2 than a garage queen '99 996 C2 with low mileage.
What is your reasoning on this?
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:01 PM
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^ its become common knowledge on here that the garage queens are the ones that end up with engine failures. Also, the 2004's will have updated parts with some of the issues already resolved. Ideally an 04 with a replaced engine would be your most reliable 996 C2.
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by split
^ its become common knowledge on here that the garage queens are the ones that end up with engine failures. Also, the 2004's will have updated parts with some of the issues already resolved. Ideally an 04 with a replaced engine would be your most reliable 996 C2.
It looks like 02-04's can be had for just a few thousand more than a 99. That is probably worth it.

I have also read that the car that most have IMS failures are those that don't see much spirited driving. If that's the case I would be safe from an IMS failure.
 
  #26  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:02 PM
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yes, get a mk2 996
 
  #27  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sinKing
... I have also read that the car that most have IMS failures are those that don't see much spirited driving. If that's the case I would be safe from an IMS failure.
It is my belief that condensation is the key IMS culprit. Drive her like you stole it. These P-cars were made to operate in the higher RPM's (no less than 3,000). '99 996 C2 with 47K on the clock, and all good. Nonetheless, one can ever be completely safe from an IMS failure. Though mine is operational, I do plan on an updated IMS at it's first clutch change. And, then I will continue with my spirited driving.
 

Last edited by rrrruben; 04-20-2011 at 06:49 PM.
  #28  
Old 04-21-2011, 03:26 AM
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sinKing, I just recently picked up a clean '99 996 after doing all the same research and have been smiling ever since. I own a turbo S2000 and it's a whole different beast, but I got the 996 for mostly daily driving. You'll be disappointed with the power coming from a Z06... Altho my Honduh doesn't have 500hp, it does have over 400hp so going to a 300hp car was like "uh.. what happen?" But driving it is just awesome. I wanted the MK2 996 but even tho they're only a few more grand, I couldn't swing one. Besides my 996 has the GT3 Aero package and nearly every option.. So I'd say like those above, def get the MK2 and probably not a uber low mileage one. Mine had 84K last week, now 85.5K after a roadtrip to the Dragon which it handled great!

One more thing to look out for would be some of the 996's had a 2nd gear pop out issue. Not sure how late in the MY996 this issue goes. I know 996TTs have this issue too. But just something to be aware of.

Oh and if you like'em loud do the muffler bypasses, I did and it's like a cup car! Everyone loves it. It is loud and drones on the highway a bit, but eh sounds great when thrashing it
 
  #29  
Old 04-22-2011, 06:53 PM
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996 Engine Type

Have eyes on 2001 911 3.4l Tiptronic with 47K. Issue is I read about engine failures. Did a VIN check on internet site which indicates engine is M96.04 version. My understanding is that Porsche improved engine due to bearing failures. Is this engine any better than prior versions (i.e. M96.01, .02) I also understand that problem was resolved with 2001 versions.
Tks
Joe
 
  #30  
Old 04-22-2011, 07:16 PM
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Engines

Does does 996.04 engine mean it had a new engine or is that what was in the '01's ? I heard the major problem with 99-01 was with the cylinder liners and block itself - as well as the IMS seal/bearing. If you research the internet forums - sees like as many as 10-15% of the early cars suffered from these problems. I had a friend with an early Boxster that blew the engine. The 3.6 engine seems better - I don't see reports of liner/block failures in those - but still have IMS is a problem - especially on cars not driven much/hard where bearing and seal does not get lubed well. That seems true all the way into early 997 models. But remember, even if this effects 5% of the cars -that means 95% run just fine - I think the key is to drive regularly, change the oil (I'm planning to do at 7.5K intervals or approx 1 year since that is cheap insurance). There is bearing upgrade you can have done when you replace the clutch - so for $1K-$2K additional you can have some insurance if you stay awake at night and worry about that sort of thing ....
 


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