my car is at North Scottsdale Porsche right now for the same problem. Be clear that the actuator is an oil pump that is engaged by the solenoid. The solenoid mounts to the actuator and I really doubt your problem is the actuator. I'd bet it's the solenoid and if your tech want to pull the engine to do this job he does not know how to work on a Porsche. I saw my car up on a lift yesterday with the vario cam cover removed, the solenoid and actuator are right there behind the cover. Align cylinder 1 and using a special tool, it looks like a threaded rod, bingo both the actuator and solenoid came off.

Merry Christmas.

 

The solenoid should be tested in at least three ways prior to removing the camshaft (activated manually by computer, applying 12volts manually, and ohming it to 13ohms). If it ohms out properly and actuates but still does not operate the actuator, then it is the actuator that has failed. In either case the camshaft cover must be removed (with special Porsche tool locking the cams prior).

Typically when the car idles very rough, then the actuator has failed (usually stuck open). A failed solenoid usually produces a normal idle, but less power through the mid-rpm range because it would fail normally closed. However, the opposite of both of the above can be true in corner cases. There are different check engine light codes for both actuator, solenoid, and sensor failure. A faulty DME can also cause a solenoid to not activate (I've experienced this problem as well). And of course wiring can play a role as well.

The camshafts have to come out when the actuator comes out. If it is just a solenoid, it can be replaced without removing the camshafts.

The threaded rod to compress the actuator is right hand or left hand threaded depending on what the serial number of your engine is. You can also use zip ties instead of a threaded rod (I've done this before).

Once the camshaft cover is bolted back on (sealed with silicone, new micro-encapsulated bolts). Then engine has to be re-timed (another special Porsche tool required).

This is no easy job for the shadetree or unexperienced. For a veteran Porsche mechanic, I'm sure they can do it with engine in car more easily, and it helps to have small hands and the right tools! I've heard bank 2 (psngr) is more difficult to do with engine in car than bank 1 (drivers). I can see why, as there is a little more clearance on that side.

The cost of a discounted solenoid is about $140. Actuator + solenoid discounted assembly about $700.

Depending on your budget and how much labor you have to pay, while they have the camshaft cover off it might make sense to just replace the entire actuator/solenoid assembly.

In addition (while you are in there), on a 5 chain 3.4L engine you should also replace the variocam chain pads (if you do not replace the actuator), the 4th or 5th timing chain depending on which bank is being worked on, and the spark tubes and o-rings.





Merry Christmas

 

well, the mechanic is a porsche tech, he did tested the solenoids by swaping them out, and also by jumping them to the computer, trying to see if the computer was sending fault info to the variocam. He also installed new solinoids, same codes came back.

trust me, i wish i can find a mechanic that can install the actuator with out taking the engine out.

I also had another porsche mechanic that came with same conclusion.

I called anothe porsche shop that also confirmed with taking engine out. I went thru three different shops, and all come back with same conclusion, take engine out.

The chain guides on the car need to be changed as well, the mechanic took the cover off and noticed one was cracked in half, and the other had some heavy marks on it, from the chain.
i asked him if he can get the actuator with just the cover off, he said it would be too difficult to get to.
I figure if i am going to go thru taking this engine out, i will go with the IMS upgrade and see if i need a knew clutch as well.
I hate to take the engine out, but it seems i have no other choice, and all this is adding to a pretty penny .

 

More room for error replacing the actuators with engine in car in my opinion, I wouldn't attempt it myself (my hands wouldn't fit).

There is a fellow on rennlist who did this, however he still had to jack the engine down about 6-8 inches (off the mounts) in order to get all the access he needed. After he put it back together, some miles later he dropped the engine and completely rebuilt it.

Yes expensive to drop the engine because of labor hours to remove/replace ... however from a difficulty perspective it is not high on the scale and it actually increases your chances for a successful repair. Much easier to work with when you can see and work in a comfortable position.

The more times I drop the engine, the more the car seems to be "designed" for the engine drop.

Remove a few fuel lines, radiator hoses, clutch lines, air conditioner, drive shafts, cross members, two electrical lines, some body panels and other stuff and it drops out. I've got it down to under 4 hours the last time I did it. I'm sure with a proper ramp and engine securing fixtures I could shave that down some more. First time though, I took a whole day!

 

I just had the variocam actuator and solenoid replaced on the passenger side of my '99. I too had a CEL P1341 code. North Scottsdale Porsche removed the passenger tire, muffler, coils and cam cover to get to the solenoid and actuator. To actually replace the assembly as a whole unit the cam has to come out.
Mine was paid for by warranty $2800. The invoice shows 12.5 hours.

My car was up on a lift for 13 days, 7 days fighting with the warranty company then 6 days waiting for the solenoid/actuator.

 

where did you get your warranty from, and how much is it a year?

 

I bought it through a friend that sells extended service contracts. He gave it to me for his cost $2250. The coverage is 4 years, 48k miles. I have 2 and a half years left and 30k miles left to go.

So far they've paid out over $5600 in claims.

 

The latest, is not looking good. The mechanic drop the engine, replaced the actuator and the solenoids. Put the car back together, and the fault codes keep coming back.
I am running out of ideas here. We are thinking it might be the cam shaft, but that is just a guess. He is going to take the cam covers and check the cam shaft, if it is the shaft, engine has to come out again, this really sucks!!
Oil pressure not activating the solenoids can be also the issue, is just too many things that can be making the car spit the codes.

 

I had this problem and it turned out to be the DME (ECU). The older 5.2.2 units in the 1999 cars are known to go bad and fry solenoids or not activate them due to bad ground. If the car idles fine and you can activate the solenoid manually with 12V+ then chances are it is the DME.

Have the cam position sensors been swapped between banks or with new?

 

he did check to see if it was the DME (ECU) by bypassing it and activating the solenoids manually, which bank 2 worked and bank 1 didn't, this was before he did the actual repair on the actuator. Now that the actuators and solenoids are changed, he reset the computer and the fault code 1341 comes back, eventually what it does, the DME shuts off both banks. The computer only sees bank 2 advancing. He did it manually and he also sees bank 2 advancing. he can't get bank 1 to advance. He also check to see if the solenoids are getting oil, and both do show signs of oils in them.
We can tell some one was inside the engine at one point or another, but cant tell if who ever was in there created this problem.

 

just came from the mechanic.
both actuators and solenoids were changed. He show me how he advanced bank 2 and you can see the degrees changing on his computer and also hear the engine idle differently. he did this manually
he tried bank 1 by sending manual voltage to hear the solenoid and it does make a clicking sound, but when we start the car and applied the manual voltage to advance the cam, nothing happens. The mechanic's computer does not register any change.

 

I am runing out of options here, any ideas?

 

Was it a brand new actuator he installed in bank 1, or was it a used part?

Is the engine timed correctly? (DME will not allow advance if it is not timed within 6 degrees +/-)?

Did he try swapping the cam position sensors between banks or a new sensor on bank 1?

 

Bank one has a new actuator and a new solenoid.
Bank two also has a new actuator and a new solenoid.

mechanical timing is correct, the car was ideling fine.

 

And the cam position sensors?