Aftermarket Clutch, worth it?
#1
Aftermarket Clutch, worth it?
Anyone here running an aftermarket clutch on a C2? My poor 996 was the victim of the previous owner's poor driving ability, and has a sloppy clutch that is probably going to go out very soon. It has only lasted so long because I drive the car on weekends and very gently so.
I'm wondering if an aftermarket clutch kit would be worth it, or if I should just replace it with an OEM clutch. I would enjoy some spirited driving, and the car is modified with everything short of forced induction, though I don't think either one of these factors requires me to get an aftermarket clutch.
Thoughts from those who have aftermarket clutches?
I'm wondering if an aftermarket clutch kit would be worth it, or if I should just replace it with an OEM clutch. I would enjoy some spirited driving, and the car is modified with everything short of forced induction, though I don't think either one of these factors requires me to get an aftermarket clutch.
Thoughts from those who have aftermarket clutches?
#2
#4
Agree, for street use all you really don't need heavy duty. Besides if you put a heavy clutch in here in most cases you'll get "chirping" when you first engage.
#5
I have to play the opposite on this one. If you like to shift and feel your car, a heavier clutch is the way to go. I'm not sure of the term "chirp" If you mean "clutch chatter" all clutches do it. You have to LEARN the way it engages and make sure you have enough clutch or gas engaged.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
#7
I've discussed this on several threads... the trick is in the in the heads, I have about 2500 bucks in head porting and polishing. valves, springs fuel injectors, ecu, intake pulleys intake.. blah blah blah. Truly, the headwork is key, you can get more out of them but i was afraid to push the wall thickness..
A friend has a stock turbo and cant hang...
A friend has a stock turbo and cant hang...
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#9
I have to play the opposite on this one. If you like to shift and feel your car, a heavier clutch is the way to go. I'm not sure of the term "chirp" If you mean "clutch chatter" all clutches do it. You have to LEARN the way it engages and make sure you have enough clutch or gas engaged.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
#10
Eugizzle,
You must be new to the car world... . There are so many ways to gain HP. Its the same for any car out there. Your engine is a big air pump... brings air in, blows it up, then spits it out. Working the heads has nothing to do with the engine block. The head is the "key source" of gaining HP. some people may differ because the way an engine makes power can get fairly complex with combustion chamber cc, cam shaft lobe grinds, piston shape/size/weight, and cylinder size.
Bigger cylinder allows more air to be stored in the block, but if you cant get enough air in the engine, the head serves as a bottle neck. In the 3.4 liter engine, the head can be worked to allow extreme amounts of air in the block for the piston to have a bigger bang when compressed to spark.
Trust me, I have some Porshe guys talk smack like its not possible because the didn't read it on an "official thread". Well.. i really dont give a $*it. How do you think the Cup Cars get such big HP?! put a stock engine in and call it a day? No! THey have custom made pistons, cylinder sleeves, extreme head port work ( additional milling for higher compression) camshaft swaps ect...
So adding an air intake to a stock car may gain 4-5 hp on the dyno... having that same upgrade to a car that can "use" , "flow" more air can gain 20-30hp with the same mod. may be exaggerated...but still... get the point.
If you want to learn more,... google engine builing or head port work... ect.
You must be new to the car world... . There are so many ways to gain HP. Its the same for any car out there. Your engine is a big air pump... brings air in, blows it up, then spits it out. Working the heads has nothing to do with the engine block. The head is the "key source" of gaining HP. some people may differ because the way an engine makes power can get fairly complex with combustion chamber cc, cam shaft lobe grinds, piston shape/size/weight, and cylinder size.
Bigger cylinder allows more air to be stored in the block, but if you cant get enough air in the engine, the head serves as a bottle neck. In the 3.4 liter engine, the head can be worked to allow extreme amounts of air in the block for the piston to have a bigger bang when compressed to spark.
Trust me, I have some Porshe guys talk smack like its not possible because the didn't read it on an "official thread". Well.. i really dont give a $*it. How do you think the Cup Cars get such big HP?! put a stock engine in and call it a day? No! THey have custom made pistons, cylinder sleeves, extreme head port work ( additional milling for higher compression) camshaft swaps ect...
So adding an air intake to a stock car may gain 4-5 hp on the dyno... having that same upgrade to a car that can "use" , "flow" more air can gain 20-30hp with the same mod. may be exaggerated...but still... get the point.
If you want to learn more,... google engine builing or head port work... ect.
Last edited by scantu; 05-21-2012 at 08:50 AM.
#11
for adding power, nothing beats displacement...except for a decent supercharge.
So did you put your 996 heads on a flow bench and if so what was the max flow rate (cfm) at set pressure and what was the coefficiency of the intake ports specifically?
Did you change the exhaust ports too? I was told once by a GT mechanic that the exhaust ports are oversized from the factory...so you only need to work the intakes and slap the spec headers on.
So did you put your 996 heads on a flow bench and if so what was the max flow rate (cfm) at set pressure and what was the coefficiency of the intake ports specifically?
Did you change the exhaust ports too? I was told once by a GT mechanic that the exhaust ports are oversized from the factory...so you only need to work the intakes and slap the spec headers on.
#12
I have to play the opposite on this one. If you like to shift and feel your car, a heavier clutch is the way to go. I'm not sure of the term "chirp" If you mean "clutch chatter" all clutches do it. You have to LEARN the way it engages and make sure you have enough clutch or gas engaged.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
I use a Spec stage 3 in a street car and love the feel. It isn't as heavy as one may think and grabs harder than a stock clutch could dream of. Im running roughly 400hp in my 99 C2 with a 12.87 time slip at 114mph.
If you drive responsibly and dont abuse it, an aftermarket clutch will last longer than you plan on owning the car. I have abused mine with 4k rpm feathered launches, hours at the track and never smelled it to over heat.
My though is truly as my first words.... if you like to DRIVE.... get one.
imma agree with you. i like the feel of aftermarket clutches. but to an extent, too heavy of a pressure plate and its hard to drive on hills in sf. but even then it just takes a day or two to get used too.
#13
Eugizzle,
You must be new to the car world... . There are so many ways to gain HP. Its the same for any car out there. Your engine is a big air pump... brings air in, blows it up, then spits it out. Working the heads has nothing to do with the engine block. The head is the "key source" of gaining HP. some people may differ because the way an engine makes power can get fairly complex with combustion chamber cc, cam shaft lobe grinds, piston shape/size/weight, and cylinder size.
Bigger cylinder allows more air to be stored in the block, but if you cant get enough air in the engine, the head serves as a bottle neck. In the 3.4 liter engine, the head can be worked to allow extreme amounts of air in the block for the piston to have a bigger bang when compressed to spark.
Trust me, I have some Porshe guys talk smack like its not possible because the didn't read it on an "official thread". Well.. i really dont give a $*it. How do you think the Cup Cars get such big HP?! put a stock engine in and call it a day? No! THey have custom made pistons, cylinder sleeves, extreme head port work ( additional milling for higher compression) camshaft swaps ect...
So adding an air intake to a stock car may gain 4-5 hp on the dyno... having that same upgrade to a car that can "use" , "flow" more air can gain 20-30hp with the same mod. may be exaggerated...but still... get the point.
If you want to learn more,... google engine builing or head port work... ect.
You must be new to the car world... . There are so many ways to gain HP. Its the same for any car out there. Your engine is a big air pump... brings air in, blows it up, then spits it out. Working the heads has nothing to do with the engine block. The head is the "key source" of gaining HP. some people may differ because the way an engine makes power can get fairly complex with combustion chamber cc, cam shaft lobe grinds, piston shape/size/weight, and cylinder size.
Bigger cylinder allows more air to be stored in the block, but if you cant get enough air in the engine, the head serves as a bottle neck. In the 3.4 liter engine, the head can be worked to allow extreme amounts of air in the block for the piston to have a bigger bang when compressed to spark.
Trust me, I have some Porshe guys talk smack like its not possible because the didn't read it on an "official thread". Well.. i really dont give a $*it. How do you think the Cup Cars get such big HP?! put a stock engine in and call it a day? No! THey have custom made pistons, cylinder sleeves, extreme head port work ( additional milling for higher compression) camshaft swaps ect...
So adding an air intake to a stock car may gain 4-5 hp on the dyno... having that same upgrade to a car that can "use" , "flow" more air can gain 20-30hp with the same mod. may be exaggerated...but still... get the point.
If you want to learn more,... google engine builing or head port work... ect.
What cams did you use?
#14
I've discussed this on several threads... the trick is in the in the heads, I have about 2500 bucks in head porting and polishing. valves, springs fuel injectors, ecu, intake pulleys intake.. blah blah blah. Truly, the headwork is key, you can get more out of them but i was afraid to push the wall thickness..
A friend has a stock turbo and cant hang...
A friend has a stock turbo and cant hang...
#15
hey guys,
Sorry for the slow responses to your questions. I dont post as often as i used to.... work keeps me busy.
Several questions to answer. The heads... there is plenty to chew away at noth on the intake and exhaust side. It depends on how big the bawls are of the head machinist and confidence level. I had a guy in town do them kinda like a "bet i can get it done" over a late night bar discussion. # weeks later i had them. they were ported, polished, 1 mm larger valves and stiffer springs. its a Frankenstein set up to say the leasts. lol. In addition, they are milled for a slight gain in compression which probably helps out for the lack of displacement. Second question.... cams. they are the Flat 6 regrinds. With this, anyone knows that any ECU tune, air intake, underdrive pulley will make a better gain with an overall build engine.
As far as the dyno sheet. im a 36 year old man that has owned plenty of 9 second American muscle cars and really could care less of the final "number" to the wheel. With that said, a trip to the dyno for bragginf rights and a potential "big bang" while not even driving it doesnt interest me with the amount of money i have in the engine.
All i care about it that its fast.... really fast. and when i say that it will hang with or "inch" out a stock turbo.... what gain do i have about not telling the truth.
Its fun as hell to drive and sounds amazing!
Sorry for the slow responses to your questions. I dont post as often as i used to.... work keeps me busy.
Several questions to answer. The heads... there is plenty to chew away at noth on the intake and exhaust side. It depends on how big the bawls are of the head machinist and confidence level. I had a guy in town do them kinda like a "bet i can get it done" over a late night bar discussion. # weeks later i had them. they were ported, polished, 1 mm larger valves and stiffer springs. its a Frankenstein set up to say the leasts. lol. In addition, they are milled for a slight gain in compression which probably helps out for the lack of displacement. Second question.... cams. they are the Flat 6 regrinds. With this, anyone knows that any ECU tune, air intake, underdrive pulley will make a better gain with an overall build engine.
As far as the dyno sheet. im a 36 year old man that has owned plenty of 9 second American muscle cars and really could care less of the final "number" to the wheel. With that said, a trip to the dyno for bragginf rights and a potential "big bang" while not even driving it doesnt interest me with the amount of money i have in the engine.
All i care about it that its fast.... really fast. and when i say that it will hang with or "inch" out a stock turbo.... what gain do i have about not telling the truth.
Its fun as hell to drive and sounds amazing!