Painting Rotor Hats
#18
I'd recommend trying some paint stripper on the "hats" - to get the bulk of the old paint off. Hit them with a light sanding with some low/mid grit paper (120/150) then a little prep-sol and go to town. the entire prep shouldn't take you more than 1/2 - 1 hr. and probably about the same to re-paint.
#19
I'd recommend trying some paint stripper on the "hats" - to get the bulk of the old paint off. Hit them with a light sanding with some low/mid grit paper (120/150) then a little prep-sol and go to town. the entire prep shouldn't take you more than 1/2 - 1 hr. and probably about the same to re-paint.
Thanks for the tips. Off I go to the hardware store this weekend!
#21
I scraped the left rear rotor hat down to the bare metal using a metal putty knife (about 1-1/4" wide), #100 sandpaper and 3M scouring pads. Since the Rustoleum hammered hadn't adhered well, it was easy to remove that as well as the original grey paint underneath it. After that, I cleaned up with 3M adhesive remove and denatured alcohol.
Now, the rotor hats look so nice that I'm thinking of clearcoating them with high heat clear coat rather than painting them. The only thing is that the high heat clear coat is only available in spray version, which I've been reluctant to use.
Those of you who sprayed your rotor hats or calipers, what did you do to make sure you didn't get any spray on the car? Any tips are appreciated.
Now, the rotor hats look so nice that I'm thinking of clearcoating them with high heat clear coat rather than painting them. The only thing is that the high heat clear coat is only available in spray version, which I've been reluctant to use.
Those of you who sprayed your rotor hats or calipers, what did you do to make sure you didn't get any spray on the car? Any tips are appreciated.
#22
Wow...They do look great! You must have really spent some time and energy on them. I just wire brushed mine with a cup wheel on a cordless drill, then cleaned them up with some prep-sol. I wouldn't worry about spraying (especially clear coat) . I just did my rear hats last week, and I didn't even remove my calipers this time - just covered with a plastic bag. I did the rearward side of the caliper first, then just rotated the rotor and did the front (which was now pointing rearward...). As you're mostly pointing down and inward (i.e. under the car) there is very little danger of over spray to your bodywork, but if you're worried about it, just paper off the wheel arches. Good Luck !
#23
After thinking about it some more, I decided to paint the rotor hats silver (not clear) using POR15 Rust Preventive paint. I called the company and they said it can withstand up to 450 degrees of heat, which is sufficient (their caliper paint can withstand up to 350 and they recommend Rust Preventive paint as a first step). Assuming the paint arrives by next weekend, I'll paint the left front and rear and then sand down the right side.
BTW, sanding and prepping took about an hour and a half per wheel.
BTW, sanding and prepping took about an hour and a half per wheel.
#25
overspray wont matter . once the pads are engaged it strips the paint off in a perfect circle
#26
Agreed. I was more concerned about the overspray getting on suspension parts, muffler, wheel wells, etc.
#27
Using POR-15 Rust Preventive paint in silver, I did two light coats with light sanding in between. The paint is very runny, so it's important to keep the coats light. While I'm sure the results would have been better with the spray version of this paint (which would have avoided brush marks), I'm still happy with the results.
Last edited by Long Islander; 03-20-2016 at 12:14 PM.