Winter rustproofing?
#1
Winter rustproofing?
Just curious if anyone does this and where they do it?
Ive been reading and a lot of people recommend not rustproofing it because the body is galvanized... and something about rustproofing being bad for the car; but im not so sure since where i live, theres a ridiculous amount of salt sprayed on the road every winter.
Does anyone rust proof their cars in the winter? If so, who does it and what product is used etc.
thanks
@
Ive been reading and a lot of people recommend not rustproofing it because the body is galvanized... and something about rustproofing being bad for the car; but im not so sure since where i live, theres a ridiculous amount of salt sprayed on the road every winter.
Does anyone rust proof their cars in the winter? If so, who does it and what product is used etc.
thanks
@
#2
Just curious if anyone does this and where they do it?
Ive been reading and a lot of people recommend not rustproofing it because the body is galvanized... and something about rustproofing being bad for the car; but im not so sure since where i live, theres a ridiculous amount of salt sprayed on the road every winter.
Does anyone rust proof their cars in the winter? If so, who does it and what product is used etc.
thanks
@
Ive been reading and a lot of people recommend not rustproofing it because the body is galvanized... and something about rustproofing being bad for the car; but im not so sure since where i live, theres a ridiculous amount of salt sprayed on the road every winter.
Does anyone rust proof their cars in the winter? If so, who does it and what product is used etc.
thanks
@
I am wondering the same thing for my 996 TT.
I had my Audi sprayed every other year by krown and was happy with the results (then again i don't know how it would have faired without it). In the GTA they are moving away from salt and are using more of this "de-icing" fluid that is sprayed from trucks onto the road. I've heard its worse than salt for corrosion.
Saibot - I don't really see how it could be bad for the car; my audi was galvanized too. The downside is that it does make a mess of the car...mine is so clean it'd be a shame to do it.... than again i've already commited to driving it in the winer so its going to get dirty regardless; I guess it will just have to get an extensive detail come spring.
If you're going to do it i would advise talking to the shop before hand and ask if they (or you) can remove the plastic belly pan from the car so that they can ensure they contact the metal floor underneath.
I'm going to talk to my local krown today to see what they say.
#3
heres an example:
http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-care...-proofing.html
They're saying it clogs up drain holes and may prevent the car from draining properly leading to faster rust :S?
http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-care...-proofing.html
They're saying it clogs up drain holes and may prevent the car from draining properly leading to faster rust :S?
#4
heres an example:
http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-care...-proofing.html
They're saying it clogs up drain holes and may prevent the car from draining properly leading to faster rust :S?
http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-care...-proofing.html
They're saying it clogs up drain holes and may prevent the car from draining properly leading to faster rust :S?
Assuming we're both talking about an oily spray here and not a thick undercoating like the box of a pickup - that is total BS. The undercoating i'm talking about is a fine mist of a thin oil substance that seaps into the crevices and cracks in the car to prevent rust in these areas. Commonly they drill a small hole in your door sill so they can get inside these areas too; then they insert a plastic plug to prevent salt/water from getting in.
I just went to my local krown to talk to them about it... the problem with my car is that it is too low to drive onto their hoist. (ramp style 4-post)
#5
Assuming we're both talking about an oily spray here and not a thick undercoating like the box of a pickup - that is total BS. The undercoating i'm talking about is a fine mist of a thin oil substance that seaps into the crevices and cracks in the car to prevent rust in these areas. Commonly they drill a small hole in your door sill so they can get inside these areas too; then they insert a plastic plug to prevent salt/water from getting in.
I just went to my local krown to talk to them about it... the problem with my car is that it is too low to drive onto their hoist. (ramp style 4-post)
I just went to my local krown to talk to them about it... the problem with my car is that it is too low to drive onto their hoist. (ramp style 4-post)
Seems like good news i guess. Additional research:
http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/...e-instructions
Your authorized Porsche dealer is familiar with the bodyseal treatment procedures and has the necessary equipment for applying factory approved materials. We recommend that you entrust them with such work and inspections.
Unlike conventional spray oils, undercoating and rust-proofing compounds based on bitumen or wax do not attack the sound-proofing materials applied at the factory.
Exhaust System Fire Risk
The exhaust system becomes very hot when the engine is running. Flammable material close to the exhaust system could ignite. Additional undercoating or rust protection agents on or near the exhaust system can become too hot when driving and ignite.
Unlike conventional spray oils, undercoating and rust-proofing compounds based on bitumen or wax do not attack the sound-proofing materials applied at the factory.
Exhaust System Fire Risk
The exhaust system becomes very hot when the engine is running. Flammable material close to the exhaust system could ignite. Additional undercoating or rust protection agents on or near the exhaust system can become too hot when driving and ignite.
- Do not apply additional undercoating or rustproofing on or near the exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes, catalytic converters or heat shields. During driving the substance used for undercoating could overheat and ignite.
- Before applying fresh underseal, carefully remove deposits or dirt and grease. Once it has dried, the new undercoating compound forms a tough protective coating which provides efficient rust-proofing of the floor panels and components.
- Always apply a fresh coating of suitable preservative to unprotect areas after cleaning the underside of the body, the transmission, the engine or carrying out repairs to underbody, engine or transmission components.
apparently theres factory applied wax to the car that we should be looking at instead of the oil spray; which could catch fire.. or perhaps this is just a lame excuse for us to go to the dealers instead. Thoughts?
#7
The car doesn't need any rust proofing certainly none of that slop that gets applied by various garages, etc.
And any rust proofing that required drilling holes in the car.. Good grief.
Drilling holes in the sheet metal would compromise the outer layer of protection. The car's painted underside surfaces are coated with a very durable epoxy based paint that resists rock chips and such very well. Get down and run your hand along the under side of the body and feel that epoxy paint.
Next a large portion of the underside of the car is then protected by durable plastic panels. The wheel wells have their own liners. So nothing can contact the body.
Then a hole even compromises the last line of defense and that is of the galvanized coating the sheet metal has. This is one marvelous piece of material engineering that has essentially rendered any car built with this metal and AFIAK all cars have it almost free of any risk of corrosion. The only danger is a misguided attempt to improve what doesn't need improving.
BTW, the car comes with a 10 year corrosion warranty. But I bet you have not had the car properly inspected every year to keep this in effect.
And drilling into the body will almost certainly void that warranty if it is still in effect.
Oh, about that epoxy based paint.. the biggest risk to it is taking the car to a shop that doesn't use the proper rubber puck pads to keep the car lift/hoist metal pads from making metal to paint contact with the underside painted lift points of the car. This crushes/damages the paint at these areas giving corrosion a nice place to gain a foothold.
And any rust proofing that required drilling holes in the car.. Good grief.
Drilling holes in the sheet metal would compromise the outer layer of protection. The car's painted underside surfaces are coated with a very durable epoxy based paint that resists rock chips and such very well. Get down and run your hand along the under side of the body and feel that epoxy paint.
Next a large portion of the underside of the car is then protected by durable plastic panels. The wheel wells have their own liners. So nothing can contact the body.
Then a hole even compromises the last line of defense and that is of the galvanized coating the sheet metal has. This is one marvelous piece of material engineering that has essentially rendered any car built with this metal and AFIAK all cars have it almost free of any risk of corrosion. The only danger is a misguided attempt to improve what doesn't need improving.
BTW, the car comes with a 10 year corrosion warranty. But I bet you have not had the car properly inspected every year to keep this in effect.
And drilling into the body will almost certainly void that warranty if it is still in effect.
Oh, about that epoxy based paint.. the biggest risk to it is taking the car to a shop that doesn't use the proper rubber puck pads to keep the car lift/hoist metal pads from making metal to paint contact with the underside painted lift points of the car. This crushes/damages the paint at these areas giving corrosion a nice place to gain a foothold.
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#8
I called a local shop that I've been using for years for the times when i didn't feel like crawing under my audi. I know the guys and trust them; they know P-cars very well too. (Mitler Motors in Newmarket) Mark the owner mentioned the same wax coating and said he'd never heard of someone oil spraying their porsche and advised against it.
In regards to jacking the car up incorrectly; i completely agree. I noticed the factory jack fits nicely into the jackpoints and is centered on a nub. Do you guys just use the little factory jack to get the car off the ground and then secure it with a jack stand with a block of wood in between when you need to get under your car?
In regards to jacking the car up incorrectly; i completely agree. I noticed the factory jack fits nicely into the jackpoints and is centered on a nub. Do you guys just use the little factory jack to get the car off the ground and then secure it with a jack stand with a block of wood in between when you need to get under your car?
#9
Three quarters of the bottom of the car should be concealed behind an OEM plastic under tray and wheel liners. Wash your car every week and you should be fine. If you are worried about rubbing rim in the automatic car washes, there are plenty of hand wash guys in the TO underground garages, beside Pusateri's etc. There are also some laser car wash places just out of town.
#11
Take it through the local car wash and ask for an under body blast. All this crap about not taking our cars through the car wash. Hell its only another car and I dont see cars coming out all scratched up to F*** at our local Automatic car wash. You only need do it once anyway after the winter if you are scared of damaging your car.
Good wheres that wall? I need to smash my head again lol.
Good wheres that wall? I need to smash my head again lol.
#13
Take it through the local car wash and ask for an under body blast. All this crap about not taking our cars through the car wash. Hell its only another car and I dont see cars coming out all scratched up to F*** at our local Automatic car wash. You only need do it once anyway after the winter if you are scared of damaging your car.
Good wheres that wall? I need to smash my head again lol.
Good wheres that wall? I need to smash my head again lol.
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twlai
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10-05-2015 08:02 AM
911, 996, carrera, carreras, gt3, hot, oil, porsche, proofing, protection, rims, rust, rustproofing, undercoating, winter