Hehe yes yours is pretty darn peppy! In terms of the light weight flywheel, the car actually has to "relearn" it's there. When putting the new software on it's just like resetting the battery and starting from scratch So it should get a little better soon.

 

which one do you recommend? i haven't seen one that will work with our cars that does much more than reading fault cdoes.

 

The are several. Get a PC based software and you can graph any of the sensors you want. I use a software that is not sold anymore, but there are many out there for less than $250 which include the cable. You can monitor and record most all sensors, including O2 sensors (including after cats) which will show you your AFR, fuel trims, timing, engine and vehicle speed, engine load, throttle position, MAF collant temperature, engine compartment temp, etc. No one who owns a modified car should be without one. Google it and you'll find quite a few.

 

i figured it was the flywheel. it feels loads better already!

 

check out http://www.autoenginuity.com/. i have it for my pocket PC

 

I like all the parameters that the software will show, but when it comes to actual tuning how are the adjustments made? What hardware and/or software is needed?

 

Yups I always pinch myself after flashing (man that just doesn't sound right- ever?!) a car with a light weight flywheel because the initial response is sloppy 1st/2nd gear until the ECU can adapt to the lighter flywheel Same goes for resetting the battery... I haven't timed how long it takes to "snap out of it" but on the last GT700 car with a light weight flywheel I remember I test drove it 2-3 times in one day and by the third time it was a-ok and back to normal....

PS I'd always go for a light weight flywheel tho. Any manual car I own or have owned has had one or will have one

 

thanx again for a great install. everything its tip top.

the motor revvs up so quickly because of the LWF, but along with the parasitic drag of the SC, it also contributes to the revvs dropping so quickly too. i have to adjust my heel toeing and blipping.

next up boost gauge and some snow

 

Just be careful in your reliance on stock O2 sensors. They will not be accurate except over a very narrow range, hence when you're dyno tuning you use a wideband 02 sensor. Use the onboard stuff to monitor after you have it tuned on a loading chassis dyno using a wideband (preferably two given our cars exhaust) 02 sensor/s.

And the guys that told you that the 3.5 bar sensor is as accurate as a 2.0 bar on your setup aren't quite right. It will probably work fine but regardless of its quality, will not have the same resolution of a 2.0 bar. Just too much data to cover. In my experience, MAP sensors aren't terribly expensive, especially in comparison to your investment in the s/c system. Now the real question becomes whether your ECU setup will work with a different MAP. Switching to a 2.0 bar will likely require a slight recalibration of the fuel maps within the ECU. Nothing difficult but definitely necessasry to keep A/F ratios right.

As far as backpressure goes, I've never seen data that proves that increased backpressure helps power. As someone has already pointed out, engines are just air pumps. Increasing the flow should increase the power output. What some people do get confused by, esp. in forced induction, is the potential decrease in boost pressure readings when you have a better breathing engine. Same or better power generated at the wheels but the big guage ain't showing the same boost levels and people assume they've lost power.

 

No worries and glad it got done! I know you've been on and off thinking about the SC for a while...

The revs do drop fast and you have to be quick-footed and adjust I guess The only thing I was sad about was taking that intake off... I love the way those sound on the 996 NA cars and of course it can't be re-used in this system.

 

ya i totally agree. i miss the induction sound from the evo v-flow.

 

Gauges are in. Pretty cool. Here's a couple pics....

 

here's another....

 

I took them with a camera phone, so they're a little blurry but you get the idea.

The datalogging feature is very cool. I'm still trying to figure out how all this stuff works, but so far so good.

One thing I have noticed is that the gauges are so sensitive that you really need to review the data on the laptop to see what's going on. The numbers move very quickly on the in car display. It's good for general reading, but if you want details, got to break out the laptop.

Took it out for a short run today. Held it open in 3rd gear from 3.5K till redline. Saw a max boost of 5 psi, 12.3 for A/F, and an EGT of around 1050. I know 3rd gear is a little short to be measuring full boost, but there was traiffic and I didn't have time to get on the highway. I'm sure a 4th or 5th gear run would yield much higher boost (probably at least 5.5). I did see a spike of 5.7 on decelleration, but I'm sure that's a fluke.

This thing measures TPS as well. One thing I noticed is that when I floor it, it goes to 100% and then immediatley drops to 98%. I'm assuming that's the ECU doing that, cause my foot stays planted the whole time.

 

Hey Dog... Very cool indeed. The 3.6L's boost exactly where you're supposed to be. AFR's are perfect (Not suprised since Garret's tuned it). I'm scared to see what a 3.4L with NO E-gas *man I like it that way- and the extra small pulley boosts