that was an interesting article on the EGT readings. i'm sure i'm oversimplifying this, but if the computer in your vehicle is sophisticated enough to be taking those readings itself, why not just tap into it's readings and get the exact AF ratio instead of trying to interpret what's going on with EGT and CHT? seemed like a lot of his references were towards less complex vehicles like snowmobiles and carbuerated vehicles.

 

My personel opinion is that it looks like an ad on (especially with the wires coming out one side) which is ok for racing because I'm just after the readings but making it look like it was a stock item is alittle harder. I would try to stay with a digital readout if I could it would be to hard to read smaller amounts of pressure if it where a standard dial gauge. I have done some mach ups in paint shop pro or other graphics programs to see how things may look maybe print this one out, trim it take it out to your car and see. Worth a try

 

i was thinking more with them side by side. i don't think it would be as noticeable as it wouldn't be nearly as tall.

i haven't call this company yet, but i did not see any sending units for these gauges. i can't imagine they're included for these prices.

 

one more time

 

Yes, I agree the gauges I did not see anything on how they are connected. The article is for snowmobiles etc but the princple is the same I used to tune Aircraft engines this way (of course they are running most of the time at a constant speed) they are very simple, most cars (over simplifiying here) use the amount of O2 for A/F, one indication of a failing O2 sensor (CEL) will be temperature (EGT) to cold or hot and if on the lean side which we don't want. I'm not sure what the fudge factor is for the porsche computer (ECU) is or how much it will compensate before it sets of a error light is but I don't want to wait to find out.

 

Hey Dog, just getting back from the weekend but just a reminder to make sure that water hose clamp near the oil feed line coming from the block is rotated away from the line to prevent what happened to Robyn and me. I also put another rubber hose over that spot as insurance. There is nothing more gut wrenching than to see oil poring out from under you beautiful p-car. My car dynoed at 411 with the intercooler just dribbling coolant (because it was stopped up with pipe dope). I think the differance may have been my headers and exhaust, but it was 80 in Phenox that day at Evo. I like the idea of a boost gauge and how about an intake temp gauge on the outlet side of the aftercooler. I am still dreaming about a water spray on the front heat exchanger on those hot DE days. Will

 

WYO:

Appreiate the heads up on the oil line, However they have a new design with the oil return feed line. It's a stiffer line with more of a bend away from the belt to prevent chaffing and leakage. Shouldn't cause any more problems ( knock on wood )

Are your dyno numbers corrected? I have a cargraphic export exhaust with stock headers. When I spoke with Todd, I got the impression most of their numbers are corrected. My 402 was uncorrected.

Instead of an air intake guage, I am going t get the pocketlogger software for an old pda. Plugs into the OBDII ports and gives you all sorts of cool data, as well as fault codes and the ability to clear them.

If you wouldn't mind giving up your windshield washing abilities, I have seen people turn this into the resorvoir for an intercooler sprayer. You just have to reroute the fluid line to where you want it to spray.

 

Don't forget that your corrected hp number if the dyno was taken in St Pete's area would be less than the uncorrected, I suspect.

 

You would be correct about my uncorrected vs. corrected


I'm still not sure as to why. Todd thought it should have been higher corrected as well being that we don't live in optimal conditions. The only thing we have going for us here is being at sea level. Otherwise, it's really hot and really humid.

I would say if Arizona in their cooler months would be the place to do it with low elevation and very dry air.

I still don't understand the correction parameters and what would be the exact ideal situation. With my numbers going down "corrected", that would imply that the conditions were better than what dynojet says is optimal. It was over 80 degrees out that day and we did the runs in a non airconditioned shop.


I'm still curious as to what everyone's car did, uncorrected... That would basically say what the car is really doing where you live right? As opposed to what it would be doing in a utopian lab somewhere

 

You have to go by the corrected number for comparison, and this is where dyno's can screw up on what they report. In your case, being at about 50 feet above sea level, 80 degrees, pressure of 30.18 and a dew point of 48 on Friday at noon, your correction facter was 98.1%. If all parameters were the same, but your altitude increase to 1400 like in Tempe, you would have a correction factor of 104.

If the dyno is not calculating the corrected altitude or pressure, your uncorrected number will be right, but the corrected ones will not be. And, yes, the uncorrected number would be what you car is actually doing at that point in time and at that location and with those conditions.

Test your car in Denver and you'll loose about 18% of your power.


The 100% condition is 77F, 29.235, 0 humidity at sea level.

 

ah, that makes sense, sort of.... not being a weatherman by profession, are you saying that the humidity was better than optimal, thus my lower corrected numbers? i'm still trying to figure this out. the only one, and the simplest one i understand is the uncorrected

here's my corrected chart. what is your take on this?

 

As humidiy increases, power decreases. As temperature increases, power decreases. As altitude increases, power decreases. As pressure increases, power increases. So you could have a cooler day, which would increase your power, but if the humidy also increased, it would effect your gain negatively. When a high pressure system comes over your area, your hp will increase if everything else remains the same. It all boils down to the air density which is effected by all the above parameters.

 

i really dont know much abouty barometric pressure and dew points.

you found the weather for my area on that day. were my conditions better than optimal for that day, thus lowering my corrected HP number?

 

Yes. Because you had high pressure that day (30.18), that greatly increased the density of the air. You had cool temps and moderate humidity, so you car actually had more power than the standard corrected calculation.

 

Okay, got it. Thanks. Let's hope for many high pressure days to come