GT3 Center radiator upgrade
#16
with regular freeway driving, no stop and go, and 60~70 degree weather, my car temps are smack dab in the middle of the 8, but i have the 3rd rad. without it i was running between the 80 and 0 and at the end of the 0.
if you get the 3rd rad you'll have to rig some ducting for it to really work. the stock ducting it may come with won't work with your RSR front bumper.
hey bruce, do me a favour and take some close up pics of your radiator and ducting.
if you get the 3rd rad you'll have to rig some ducting for it to really work. the stock ducting it may come with won't work with your RSR front bumper.
hey bruce, do me a favour and take some close up pics of your radiator and ducting.
Originally Posted by Brucem
what kind of temps are people running at with a stock setup? I had my fluids done over the weekend and I only drove the car about 20 miles, but I noticed that it took alot longer to get to full temp. than it did before. The needle hovers right about the end of the 0 on 180. does that sound about what most people are seeing?
I will be adding water wetter later on this week before I go out for my next drive
thanks for all the tips guys! (btw it doesn't get above 90 very often here in seattle so I will ahve to see how the car does next time at the track)
and Marc quit beating up the ole 996 you m3 lover LOL
I will be adding water wetter later on this week before I go out for my next drive
thanks for all the tips guys! (btw it doesn't get above 90 very often here in seattle so I will ahve to see how the car does next time at the track)
and Marc quit beating up the ole 996 you m3 lover LOL
#19
Its no surprise you're running hot. There is no pressurization of the area in front of the radiator to force air through the radiator. I'd seriously consider creating some ducting to force air to travel through, rather than around/under, the radiators.
#20
thx bruce. i agree with viper501. the air is actually being deflected by the rads out to the side. IIRC the proper RSR rads are configured parallel with the car's centerline and has ducting that routes it 90 degrees to the rads so it exhausts out to the side. you don't have to do this.. just get some ducting from the TT or gt2 or make some yourself.
#23
Originally Posted by Brucem
ok now I see what you mean!! do you have a pic of the TT ducting or something similar??
if you are gonna do it right, you should reconfigure the rads and use the proper RSR ducting.
got my gt2 ducts from susnset porsche. had to special ordered from germany. took 6 weeks. you might be able to rig something up in shorter time. have you ever worked with fiberglass
EDIT: after looking at your pics some more, i think you should just fab something up yourself. i can't guarantee that the gt2 ducts will line up.
Last edited by karlooz; 04-25-2006 at 06:02 PM.
#24
i see what you are saying. those attach to the radiator and the intakes on them typically would sit on the bumper and force the air onto the radiator. HMMM... one thing is to get those, and then modify that to attach to bumper.. basically make them a llittle longer or whatever is needed
i wonder where I could get the correct RSR stuff. I have tried to talk to people at The Racers Group but they always suck for customer service...
thanks for the input!!
i wonder where I could get the correct RSR stuff. I have tried to talk to people at The Racers Group but they always suck for customer service...
thanks for the input!!
Last edited by Brucem; 04-25-2006 at 09:28 PM.
#25
You could probably fab some ducting up with black plastic sheeting (like ABS), rivets, and a heat gun. Won't be beautiful, but it would work. Could also do aluminum sheet for the same effect. Again, not necessarily pretty but would be effective.
#26
e36m3's without additional cooler and ran hard on track will overheat.
i had a 996c2 with about 8000 very hard tradck miles on it. i am not that slow as carlos can attest to that. but my has NEVER overheated. i often run it non stop for 60+ min. at 100+ deg of ambient temp. once was 117 deg at button willow.
if your C2 motor is stock and you are overheating it, something is wrong with your cooling system.
i had a 996c2 with about 8000 very hard tradck miles on it. i am not that slow as carlos can attest to that. but my has NEVER overheated. i often run it non stop for 60+ min. at 100+ deg of ambient temp. once was 117 deg at button willow.
if your C2 motor is stock and you are overheating it, something is wrong with your cooling system.
#27
Originally Posted by mooty
e36m3's without additional cooler and ran hard on track will overheat.
i had a 996c2 with about 8000 very hard tradck miles on it. i am not that slow as carlos can attest to that. but my has NEVER overheated. i often run it non stop for 60+ min. at 100+ deg of ambient temp. once was 117 deg at button willow.
if your C2 motor is stock and you are overheating it, something is wrong with your cooling system.
i had a 996c2 with about 8000 very hard tradck miles on it. i am not that slow as carlos can attest to that. but my has NEVER overheated. i often run it non stop for 60+ min. at 100+ deg of ambient temp. once was 117 deg at button willow.
if your C2 motor is stock and you are overheating it, something is wrong with your cooling system.
#28
Bruce the best thing to try would be to remove the AC condensors from the front either side. Easy to do and our SC'd car got temps way down as a result.. that's the easiest/cheapest way to drop em...