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suspension lowering question.

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Old 01-15-2004 | 06:41 PM
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suspension lowering question.

after installing a set of H&R sport lowering springs, what would the change in camber be (1~1.25"drop)?
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 07:32 PM
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oops!

another H&R
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 07:43 PM
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um, waddya mean?
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 07:46 PM
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sorry karlooz, just had terrible experience with their product... hope urs is gonna be fine!
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 07:52 PM
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well, please elaborate. i haven't even opened the box, so if it is a horrible product then i have the chance to exhange them.
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 08:12 PM
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well, if u haven't open the box i seriously suggest u think about returning it. not that it's a bad product but the customer service is the worst...

just do the spring is not the good choice anyways, so the decision is urs...
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 08:57 PM
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well that was slightly helpful
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 09:25 PM
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I believe the general concensus is that the "cheap fix," just dropping it with springs, is not optimal for ride harshness and handling.

I think most people would recommend going with a complete coilover kit, including shocks that make up for the shorter springs--i.e. PSS9, or Porsche's ROW M030, which seems to be optimal in terms of preserving ride comfort while drastically improving handling...

Not to mention, from what I've heard, it sounds like just doing the springs is not that cheap of a fix anyway--the labor is expensive regardless of whether you do just the springs, or the rest of the kit.

I'm exploring suspension options on my C2, so please share what you find out/decide!
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 09:52 PM
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i've talked to several local porsche shops and they said of course it is "optimal" to change the shocks as well but not necessary. the stock shocks are bilsteins with the same valving as the bilstein HDs. bilstein SPs have the same valving as the HDs/stock but have shorter pistons. this is what i've been told.

i am also planning on installing the springs myself. after getting quotes of (8hrs!!!) for suspension installs, i figured that i did not want to be ripped off and charged 8 hours for a 3 hour job (i hear the fronts take 30mins per side!).

after doing alot of research (mostly from boxster boards) and talking to those who have done it themselves, it is an install i am comfortable with. then i can decide to change the shocks. of course the pros will do the alignment.

now if i regularly do DE's then i would definitely reconsider.
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 10:02 PM
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Sounds like a plan... If I had the mechanical competency to do the install myself, I'd be all over those H&R springs. The car just looks so much better when there isn't that huge gap in the wheel well.
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 10:10 PM
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karlooz,
trust me, a lot of shops/dealers out there don't know what they are talking about. for example, when i was deciding the suspension for my car i was told by several dealers that if i just want to get the Euro car height only thing i need to do just get the factory Euro springs. most of them will tell u the shock between U.S & Euro are the same. after getting the entire Euro M030 set up i decided to compare it with the U.S one. even though they look the same but when i set them side by side there is infact about .25 (euro is shorter & that makes lots difference) difference. most shops out there will never tell the difference because they are TOLD that they are the same.

the car is urs. so do more research before u pull the trigger. remember! u are driving a machine that is already near perfect. if u want to put something in there make sure it'll make it better & not to make it worse
 
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Old 01-15-2004 | 10:31 PM
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i would expect that answer from a dealer/salesman. most of them know less than porsche enthusiasts, i.e. not your typical uninformed customer.

i somewhat agree with you that shops/dealers don't know much but i would take the advise of a shop that specifically deals with suspensions and race setups then i would tend to believe them. it all depends on your application.

i guess no one has an answer to my original question.
 

Last edited by karlooz; 01-15-2004 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 01-15-2004 | 11:44 PM
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Re: suspension lowering question.

Originally posted by karlooz
after installing a set of H&R sport lowering springs, what would the change in camber be (1~1.25"drop)?
well depending upon what you're looking for I mean that decision is really up to you no? Unless you have 19s or something and due to the drop have to dial in more just to fit them or something? Otherwise with 18s you shouldn't need to change it based upon lowering. Course I am always only to keen to dial in as much -ive as possible since I just love to trash my tires

PS Without camber plates you really don't have all that much play anyways.
 
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Old 01-16-2004 | 12:29 AM
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i've read that just a lowering will change the camber so i was curious as to the extent.

i am basically trying to get more clearance. the wheels i got are "pushed" out and are almost flush to the fender. the wheels were, i was told, designed for the 996 and was ensured that it had the proper offsets (58mm). with the existing camber and "lift" there is enough clearance but after the spring install, it looks like i will need more clearance. my '99 c2 doesn't have rolled fenders in the rear which, i guess, later model 996 do. if i replace the rear 265/35 18s to 285s then i will need even more clearance.

thx for the input

btw, how much camber "play" can i get WITHOUT camber plates?
 
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Old 01-16-2004 | 12:55 AM
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Originally posted by karlooz
i've read that just a lowering will change the camber so i was curious as to the extent.

i am basically trying to get more clearance. the wheels i got are "pushed" out and are almost flush to the fender. the wheels were, i was told, designed for the 996 and was ensured that it had the proper offsets (58mm). with the existing camber and "lift" there is enough clearance but after the spring install, it looks like i will need more clearance. my '99 c2 doesn't have rolled fenders in the rear which, i guess, later model 996 do. if i replace the rear 265/35 18s to 285s then i will need even more clearance.

thx for the input

btw, how much camber "play" can i get WITHOUT camber plates?
Hmm... Well I don't know and doubt if yours would be the same as mine but I was able to get 2.0 up front and 2.5 in the rear, which was maxed out.. To be honest if your fenders aren't rolled, then it's really simple and cheap (how cheap depends on your method) to do. I would look to that first. Having a lot of -ive camber is great on the track and fun to some degree, except like in my car when I puttering along the freeway and I sneeze and just lightly twitch the steering wheel and end up in the next lane... Plus you'll go through tires every 4-5k.

The only thing I'm not sure of is your rears? How come they are 265/35s? I thought 996s rears "standard" were wider than that?

Sorry I hope I'm not causing any confusion

PS Since you're in Campbell (just noticed) then you should give Dave at Custom Alignment a call. He has all the figures on a chart for your car somewhere or in his brain no doubt. He can give you specifics etc...
 


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