I've got a leak coming from the RMS area. Dealer says it could not only be the RMS, but it could also be the intermediate shaft. Two problems. One, my car is out of warranty. Two, even if PCNA says they will fix the RMS (again) free of charge, they can't tell what it is till the bell housing gets dropped. At which point I'm on the hook for dealer labor rates if it terms out to be the shaft instead. Ugggh. Or I guess I could drive around leaving puddles everywhere

How many hours should it take to do the RMS/Intermediate Shaft and what should the cost be for the whole job if it comes out of my pocket?

 

How much of a leak? What oil are you using. Changing oil brand and weight often can eliminate seal leakage because some do a better job of swelling them back to normal.

 

Hey Dog, I've seen this very same thing happen on the 997S. I'll dig out a couple of pix of what we saw. It was pretty scary really and not exactly nice to have ball bearings (that were crushed btw!) rolling around in the block. If it's very early on you might be ok but as far as the 997S' we've seen.. it's new engine time. I cannot believe the design flaw that causes this is still a problem but it is. Check out www.autofarm.co.uk as there's a nice "upgrade" if you do have to go that route. I'm going to find those pix for you shortly.

 

Right now I'm using Mobil 1 0-40W per the dealer's recommendation at my last oil change. I'm in FL. The climate ranges from about 50-100 degrees with 80'ish probably being the median temp.

 

Double D: I don't know what an RMS is, but when you've got a leak coming from that area, and think you might need a shaft replacement as a result, this sounds to me like a fairly personal issue. Then when 1999Porsche911 chimes in about something he's used for it that does a better job of "swelling them back to normal," I just think you guys need to get a room . . .

 

Well, I promise you this. If I need a shaft replacement, I will most certainly get a larger one this time around

 

This happened to me as well on a 02 C2 with 25,000 kms, My car also had the RMS leak at the time. Dealer fixed it under warranty last year.

 

I would throw in 15W50 oil first and see if that stops the leak. Give it a week or so. No loss if it doesn't work, but don't be surprised if it does. You can also add a pint of sealant to the crankcase that is specifically made for swelling the seals to your existing oil. Throw some in and then change the oil to a different weight a few days later.

The reason I asked about the oil you used was because 3 buddy's of mine had an rms leak and all 3 switched from Mobil 0W40. One went with 5W50 syntec and 2 went with 15W50. Leaks disappeared. This was 18 months ago for the guy that went with the 5W50 and about a year for the other 2.

Your blower will love the better oil, too.

Jim

 

Can anyone else substantiate this??

My car always had a little bit of a leak which i always thought was RMS related. But recently i did an oil change and used Mobil 1 0w-40 and now my car leaks like crazy. I was planning on scheduling a visit w/ the dealership when they slow up a little bit (its officially winter here now). If it matters, im in souther michigan and right now the temps are ~50F but during usually driving times the avg temp is ~70-75 and hardly ever goes past 90.

Is the oil my problem???

EDIT - I just also add that this was the first oil change done on the car in my possession it had one done shortly before i bought it this summer and i put 10k on it this summer. I dont know what kind of oil they were using before.

 

It is my opinion and experience that Mobil Water (0W40) very often contributes to leakage of seals as well as excesive burning. This holds true not only for Porsches, but you see it in many other cars that use the stuff.

This is not to say that there cannot be other reasons for seal leaks and oil burning, but I contend that running any weight other than the water weight lessens the cause of most leaks as well as provides for better engine protection.

I still find it interesting that those that experience leaks, variocam shifting problems, oil burning, noisey lifters, etc, and who use 0W40 have not gone to a different weight to see if problems are reduced. Such a move has eliminated problems for most I know of.

If you are looking to substantiate this theory, change your oil.

I am still waiting for Porsche to realize this and modify, yet once again, their list of approved oils.

 

what risks are there by using an unapproved oil?? porsche must have some reason for recommending a specific grade??? What type would you recommend for my "climate"

and what is this seal swelling stuff you mention?

 

FWIW-It's not the actual Intermediate shaft that gets replaced. There is a seal/flange directly below the rear main seal that can leak like crazy, and also it is bolted in with 3 bolts that can also leak. These replacement bolts now come with sealer on them. I wouldn't think it would be any extra labor to do this flange/seal if the rear main is being replaced at the same time. There are also 4 new case bolts that have sealer on them too that should get replaced.

 

If you want to stay within Porsche's "approved list" then go with the Castrol 5W50 which is on the list. In summer, I would not run anything but 15W50.

 

1999 and sharky: check out my other thread and tell me what you think:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ad.php?t=65504

also, they said there may be extra labor to get at the transmission due to the supercharger install (intercooler lines, etc). is that accurate? i'm not a mechanic but i can't see how it would interfere with the transmission R&R.

also, 1999, i understand your points about the oil weight. i'm just apprehensive with the excessive temps down here in FL most of the year. i would hate to use something thicker as a band aid for the leak, at the possible expense of more engine wear in the extreme heat in FL. then again, i don't know jack about oil and engine wear and my fears may be completely unfounded.

 

It cant be that much extra labor, If your S/C coolant reservoir is by the bumper (new design... old design sits under the body w/ the pump). the pump sits on a brace wich they have to take off to drop the tranny. The hoses routes to the sides and over the top of the tranny. They shouldn't have have to unmount any the S/C equipment. Thats from what I can see with mine anyway.

During the S/C install I had the change the oil among other things, and I just started to have oil leaks myself since my S/C install which is about a month ago. I never had any leaks before, I looked for the source of the leak but I ruled out its from the S/C Oil line. They put 0w/40, this is the only confirmed oil change with this type of oil as I am the second owner. My leak seems to be coming from the pan area, it doesn't drip when sitting but leaks prob 10 drops per drive...annoying.

I'm gonna try 1999Porsche911 recommendation about the oil change after 3500 miles. Funny that the oil is just around under the pan area and nothing coming from the top...It almost seams like its getting passed the seal of the pan... WTF? The oil just might be to thin? Ive never had any RMS but wouldnt be surprise if I get it now.
In my case 1999Porsche911 might be right... we'll se after my next oil change wich will be next year, the car is gonna sit for the winter... its only a toy.