I have a 99 C2 with about 57K miles on it. It has developed an oil leak that appears to be coming from the mating surfaces of the valve cover-to-head. The oil drips down on my exhaust manifold, causing smoke and smell.

Does anyone have an idea about cost to repair at dealer? Or does anyone have other ideas about problem?

JS

 

First thing just check to see if the valve cover bolts are loose around the leak. If they are, tighten them up.

If the gasket is bad just buy a new gasket, replace, and you should be good to go.

 

Here is what leak in that area normally come from.

Each spark plug socket has a plastic sleeve that has 2 O rings on them to prevent oil from seeping through. This is a known problem and a TSB has been issued stating to replace the O rings. Easy job. Just remove plugs and pull sleeve out and put new O rings on it. You will know that they are leaking when you pull the plug put and see the oil on the plug.

Another area of leakage, although much smaller amounts, are the cam cover gaskets on each side of the engine. Most often, simply snugging up the 2 bolts will stop the leak or removing the bolts and reinstalling them with a sealant.

Providing us with a picture would help alot.

 

Definately check the plastic sleeves that the spark plugs set in. I have a '99 as well and this is the only place I had any leaks develop. The sleeves are only about $3-$4 bucks apiece so it is worth replacing them all. There are two ways to replace them. One is to remove the valve covers. Not the choice you want to go with. The other is there is a tool that will extract the sleeves easily. I have managed to borrow one of these tools from the local Porsche dealership rather than buying one.

 

i would assume that if one were to remove the valve covers for a gasket replacement, they'd need to know the proper torque specs for the reinstall.

 

Yes you would. The Torque According to the Porsche Manual is 13 NM (10.0 ftlb.) at least on a 3.4. There is also a tightening sequence as well. One more point. A special tool is needed to retain the cams (tool 9634) when the cover is removed. This tool is expensive and working on the engine while it's in the car is a bit tight but do-able. I found my leak by cleaning the engine up very well, then running it long enough to show leakage. I thought it was my cam covers as well and was getting ready to have them resealed when I discoved it was the oil protection tubes instead. The other place these engines like to leak, other than the RMS, is the located on the front upper left side of the engine. There is a hose that has a worm clamp attaching it to the oil seperator I believe. This clamp sometimes becomes loose enough to allow oil leakage. It is VERY difficult to get to but can be done from under the left side of the car with long slinder arms and lots of patience. I tried to attach a picture but I am unable to post any pictures for some reason. I can email one to you if you need.

 

Does anyone have the OEM part number to oil retaining sleeves?

Thanks.

 

You need the following parts:

996 105 325 52 Pipe
999 707 343 40 Inner O-Ring
999 707 215 40 Outer O-Ring
999 717 788 00 Grease

These Numbers are for a '05 996 but it's doubtful they have changed. Should give you cross reference if nothing else.

 

If you need the instructions on how to install these, PM me an email address and I'll send them to you. I can't seam to attach anything to a reply message for some reason.

 

I have yet to see any of the tubes need replacing. You only need to replace the O rings and the tubes can be pulled out easily without any special tool. I use my bent finger or thumb and a rubber handled screw driver where necessary. Adds liitle extra time when changing plugs. You do not need any grease, but simply motor oil on the O rings.

 

Haven't tried the "bent finger" or the "rubber handled screwdriver" trick, but hey, if it works, great. Just make sure the tube doesn't crack and break off pieces inside of your engine. That was the one warning my mechanic gave me. Do that and you be pulling cam covers. At least I would anyway. Agree that the O-Rings are ususally what fails but with the heat the plastic tubes deal with, particularly after many miles, and there low costs, it may make sense to just go ahead and replace them when they're out. Your call.

 

PM sent with email address. Thanks.