Anyone interested, I though I would post-up anyhoooo.

(Decided to hardwire it down to the fuse box area, so I could access the fuse easy, and, it looked like a larger area to work with. PLUS, if you did decide in the future to go with the remote, its right-there)

**) You will need your V1, Windshield mount, 8' phone/power wire, V1 hardwire jack/accessory.

1) Place the V1 in its mount to right of mirror, cups probably mounted about 1" below the roof in the tint area.

2) Connect the straight 8' cord to the V1

3) Using a something the thickness of (2) credit cards...cardboard from a shoe box...etc, and start to tuck the cord back up into the headliner/windshield area (only goes in about 1" max...but thats just fine). Make sure to leave about 6" free from the windshield so you can plug into the V1. When not in use, its long enough to sit behind your visor out-of-site.

Follow this route.
a) V1 to windshield
b) Windshield LEFT to LEFT A-pillar
c) Down a-pillar to where it meets the windshield in corner
d) Now go backwards on the a-pillar base...towads the door.
e) Go down along the door jam and stop where the rug starts. (This is where your fusebox outer cover is. Not the actual access panel)

4) Remove the fuse box access cover
5) Remove the screws on the sides of the fusebox.
6) Remove the OUTER fuse panel carpeted cover assembly.
7) Remove the one screw to the LEFT of the fusebox.
8) Slide fusebox about 1/4" to left, it will disengage from holes on RIGHT.
9) Cut the large black zip tie on left of box. (to access wires later)
10) Tilt fuse panel towards you, you will see the top row of wires. (that zip tie you just cut allows the panel to tilt safely now)
11) Find a switchable wire. (I found a 25amp PURPLE on the top row 3rd from right)
12) Use the V1 BLUE wire tap into this wire (for your + Positive)
13) Below where the fuse box was, there is a rubber plug slightly to the right. I drilled a small hole about 1" to the right for the - Negative)
14) Plug the RED wire from the V1 HW kit into the BLUE wire tap.
15) Tilt the fuse panel back up and into place, secure the one screw
16) Mount the BLACK 2/Jack V1 power junction to the right of the fuse box. (I mounted mine with wires facing up). This was self-stick.
17) Connect the - Negative to the hole you drilled w/screw, or wherever you may have picked
18) NOW CONTINUE to route the 8' power cord, up/behind/over the fuse box and down to the junction. Plug into the MAIN slot.
19) Coil & zip tie excess length accordingly so its nice and neat.
20) Replace the OUTER fuse box assembly
21) Replace the fues box access cover

** Note. Done this way, in the future if you decide to use the remote unit, you only need plug that down into the junction piece thats to the right of the fuse box in the ACCESSORY slot **

 

Any pictures?

 

pics please...

 

You can hardwire to the dome light area as well and not run cords all over the place. There is a 12v out for the self dimming mirror.

 

What I'll do this weekend is pull the fuse cover off, and carpeted outer cover (which is easy/fast) and take a few from start to end. (so you can also see the 6" section that will plug into the unit, that hids up behind the visor when not in use.

Like I mentioned. The only reason I ran this way (vs up to the light/mirror area) was to have the power module close for possible future use, plus easy access to the fuse.

Also.... When I "tucked" the cord into the upper windshield area, and down along the a-pillar I used a thick piece of cardboard, about 2 CreditCards thick. For the remainder I used a regular sized flat-head screwdriver with some electrical tape on the blade end to make it safe and not scratch anything.

 

Very helpful, easy to do...

 

I did the dome light. 5 minutes V1 hardwire. easy.
no need for pillar.