Newbie question... oil?
#16
Here is my story
Bought the car last year, 02 996 50 000 miles, seller telling me it was Mobil 1 5W40 in it.
Of course I could not verify that.
Anyway, It dropped about 1.5 quarts in 3000 miles. Oil had 6000 miles total on it, so oil was still in good condition.
I changed the oil this spring and put in Mobil 1 0W40, as recommended by Porsche in Toronto.
Guess what, 3000 miles later it dropped about 0.25 quarts, I did not even top it up yet as it was at top mark to beggin with.
There is also less incidents of smoke on cold start, even if I drove the car hard the last time, compared to last year.
Everything is so much better, I am starting to wonder if the previous oils was Mobil 1 at all.
As far as climate, well I am 400 miles North of Buffalo, so it probably does not compare with your climate.
Bought the car last year, 02 996 50 000 miles, seller telling me it was Mobil 1 5W40 in it.
Of course I could not verify that.
Anyway, It dropped about 1.5 quarts in 3000 miles. Oil had 6000 miles total on it, so oil was still in good condition.
I changed the oil this spring and put in Mobil 1 0W40, as recommended by Porsche in Toronto.
Guess what, 3000 miles later it dropped about 0.25 quarts, I did not even top it up yet as it was at top mark to beggin with.
There is also less incidents of smoke on cold start, even if I drove the car hard the last time, compared to last year.
Everything is so much better, I am starting to wonder if the previous oils was Mobil 1 at all.
As far as climate, well I am 400 miles North of Buffalo, so it probably does not compare with your climate.
#17
Two steps
1) Choose an oil from this list
http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf
2) Put it in your car
1) Choose an oil from this list
http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf
2) Put it in your car
#22
Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Mixing a conventional oil with synthetic is NOT a problem and your seals love it.
As the Porsche Technical Bulletin indicates “Only Hydrocracked or full Synthetic oils are approved by Porscheâ€.
Group II — Mineral oils with quality additive packages. Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III — Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds commonly referred to as hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil. This is the lowest-cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV — Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefin or POA. Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
All synthetic engine oils perform better than Group II (mineral) oils especially when tested according to the Noack Volatility Test ASTM D-5800.
The major advantage of using synthetic engine oil is in its ability to remain fluid at very low temperatures. This characteristic of synthetic oil makes it popular in colder climates where cold-engine cranking is important. This is even more critical in Porsche engines because of the close bearing tolerances.
If I was in your situation, I wouldn’t mix. Mobil1 is all I use. Of course, in an emergency conventional oil could be used short-term.
My 2 cents worth.
#23
Originally Posted by zdr2k
I usually agree with you but not in this case.
As the Porsche Technical Bulletin indicates “Only Hydrocracked or full Synthetic oils are approved by Porsche”.
Group II — Mineral oils with quality additive packages. Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III — Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds commonly referred to as hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil. This is the lowest-cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV — Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefin or POA. Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
All synthetic engine oils perform better than Group II (mineral) oils especially when tested according to the Noack Volatility Test ASTM D-5800.
The major advantage of using synthetic engine oil is in its ability to remain fluid at very low temperatures. This characteristic of synthetic oil makes it popular in colder climates where cold-engine cranking is important. This is even more critical in Porsche engines because of the close bearing tolerances.
If I was in your situation, I wouldn’t mix. Mobil1 is all I use. Of course, in an emergency conventional oil could be used short-term.
My 2 cents worth.
As the Porsche Technical Bulletin indicates “Only Hydrocracked or full Synthetic oils are approved by Porsche”.
Group II — Mineral oils with quality additive packages. Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III — Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds commonly referred to as hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil. This is the lowest-cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV — Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefin or POA. Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
All synthetic engine oils perform better than Group II (mineral) oils especially when tested according to the Noack Volatility Test ASTM D-5800.
The major advantage of using synthetic engine oil is in its ability to remain fluid at very low temperatures. This characteristic of synthetic oil makes it popular in colder climates where cold-engine cranking is important. This is even more critical in Porsche engines because of the close bearing tolerances.
If I was in your situation, I wouldn’t mix. Mobil1 is all I use. Of course, in an emergency conventional oil could be used short-term.
My 2 cents worth.
If your accept the assumption that Porsche knows what is best for performance and longevity of the car, then you have no alternative but to follow their advice, regardless of how many times they change it. However, as an idividuals, we are not regulated by EPA requirements, emmision control, etc, and are free to actually choose what best protects our car.
BTW: Porsche also states that you do not need to change your oil for 15,000-20,000 miles. Who in the right mind would wait that long for any car they cared about? I guess we can also assume that Porsche windshield fluid and antifreeze are the world's best and that it is unsafe to drive on any tires other than "N" rated ones?
All this expert advice from a company who brags that it is ok to burn through 10 quarts of oil every 6000 mles.
#25
Ronny,
Still keep an eye on things and check under the car for leaks. RMS seals can fail multiple times. Mine has been changed twice. It could also be the intermediate shaft bearing. A more serious problem if it is leaking.
When you have your oil changed have them visually check the motor for leaks.
Welcome aboard.
Still keep an eye on things and check under the car for leaks. RMS seals can fail multiple times. Mine has been changed twice. It could also be the intermediate shaft bearing. A more serious problem if it is leaking.
When you have your oil changed have them visually check the motor for leaks.
Welcome aboard.
#27
Originally Posted by Ray S (Chicago)
Two steps
1) Choose an oil from this list
http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf
2) Put it in your car
1) Choose an oil from this list
http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf
2) Put it in your car
#28
mobile One always, if not at walmart online
Originally Posted by Ronny
I've had my car for 3 weeks / 2000 miles and it's eaten up quite a lot of oil. What brand of oil is recommended that I can find at walmart?
Also, I have no idea whether the oil used before was synthetic or not. Are there any consequences in mixing the two?
Also, I have no idea whether the oil used before was synthetic or not. Are there any consequences in mixing the two?
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