Great review. Making this mod next week

 

Hi, for front camber: the stock front camber maxes out at -1.2. To achieve more negative front camber, you *will* need to use either a. camber plate or b. lower control arm. VID has experience with both of these I believe. Or you could also call Ira at Tarret Web Site, very knowledgeable and helpful.
For rear camber: I've been told that stock rear camber could be adjusted to minus 2 range, up to minus 3 in fact (anyone pls correct me as needed), without any hardware change.

For street driving, IMHO -1.2/-1.6 is fine; "camber is for cornering," too much camber hurts straightline braking and acceleration.
For the track, in general, I've seen minus 2 range both front and rear.
For others reading this and wondering why negative camber is needed: The faster you are in corners, the more body rolls, and as body rolls, tires lose contact patch area (not good), there are 3 ways to counter this:
a. Increase spring stiffness
b. Increase negative camber
c. Lower the car
Body roll and weight transfer are major enemies of handling goodness (this is why weight is mother of all bad things in motorsports, weight causes increase in body roll/weight transfer). This is also the reason why the track junkies on this forum have such stiff suspension and huge negative camber in their cars.

Regarding how much camber, sure start with what you see and see how you like it; it is an easy thing to change. There are 2 ways to see whether your camber settings are adequate for your driving:
a. Tire wear
b. Tire temperature
If outside wears more, or outside is hotter than inside, then you need more negative camber. The more advanced you are as a driver, meaning more speed in corners (corners separate the men from the boys ) , the more neg camber you are going to need. Hope my rambling is somewhat helpful.

 

In case you missed this from the best sports car company in the world :-) - holy cow it's sub 7:00!!!

 

Cannga,

Ran my TTS on the track after the Damptronic coilover and H&R sway install and it made a dramatic improvement in the handling. I am very happy with the overall results.
Here is a session I taped.


Walt

 

Looks like a fun, flat track, similar to lightning in nj. Nice.

 

Walt, want you to know your video gained an audience at my work place. A couple other people were crowding around my tablet watching you "reelin' them in" one by one. I had to explain why your car blew by others as if they were standing still (turbo s with pdk, bilstein, r comp, and all that stuff make this one of the fastest cars in the world, etc.). Thanks for sharing and enjoy in good health.

 

BTW, what's interesting about this run is that if you look at the video, driver wasn't Walter Rohrl. Apparently 3 drivers were involved, Porsche test drivers Walter Rohrl and Timo Kluck, and Porsche factory driver Marc Lieb, but ultimately it was Marc Lieb who was fastest. Maybe age has finally caught up with the master .

BTW, I've looked but cannot find definitive confirmation what tire was used for this run, does anyone know whether it was Michelin Cup R comp tire, same as stock? There is also rumor that the car goes even faster with racing slick, at 6:49!

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1...leife-lap-time

 

Does any one recomend the upper tower bar for the turbos????
Does it gives some handling or feeling advantages????

 

I've never tried so really don't know but I don't recall seeing an "OMG must have this" review ever. Allegedly Turbo body is stiff enough that this doesn't help.

I would still say the main stay of suspension mod are in order of importance: stiffer spring/coilover, sway bar, then those links with solid heim joints.

 

Sanham, for what its worth, I run one on my TT. I have actually had one on every Porsche I have ever owned. I consider it a required "must have". More then likely because it was very noticeable when I installed it on my first 87 911. That and springs have always been my first suspension upgrade steps, then thicker sway bars. Baby steps...

 

VID, good feedback. Which bar do you use? Champion?

 

911's post 2000 shouldn't need a tower bar, the factory actually reinforced the chassis significantly to account for this issue. On a G body or a 930, it's a must have.

 

Champion did have one installed on my vehicle when I took delivery. However, it was upon my request. CMS installed an aluminum FVD shock tower brace. I had requested a Carbon version but the diameter was a bit larger and would not clear some of the body parts/battery; I believe.

The diameter of the FVD is half that of the one I had on my 993 (carbon). I recall the brace on my 87 had some girth to it as well.

 

thanks guys.... any feedback stills wellcome, i have the chance to get one techart bar at 50% off... so... (like the song said) should i stay or should i go?????

 

At 50% off you can't go wrong and these are a very easy DIY. Seeing as your install will be "fresh" you can offer us before and after comparisons if any are detected.

I have had mine in since day one, therefore cannot offer any real feed back one way or the other; plus my suspension development has grown over the years with the stock tower brace in place every step of the way. No one has ever suggested removing it through the development process...