Yes and no. Yes because doing it one step at a time is a cautious approach, no because sway bars alone do not change the overall feel of the car enough (partly as a result how overly soft the stock suspension is).

This is what I did, sway bar was my first change, but afterwards I was still not happy. The real transformation happened when I installed the coilover.

Once the Bilstein coilver had been installed and I became familiar, yes I definitely could feel how the sway bars' adjustments affect the degree of body roll. As mentioned above, understeer-overteer behavior is also affected by sway bar adjustment.

 

Thanks,
What about the TPC DSC? It's pricey and I've seen others sell them after awhile. I use the car as a daily driver on NY highways (not always the best roads) OEM Sport Mode is just too harsh and normal is just too soft.

TIA

 

^this is a nobrainer IMHO, the DSC will fix exactly this perfectly.

 

I have no experience with TPC DSC so can't comment but there have been many excellent reports from users on the TPC DSC. There are 3 options that I could see, depends on how hard core you want to take this car, how advanced of a driver you are, and if $ is an issue:

1. If this remains a city car and lowering is not a good idea, then TPC DSC. Keep in mind that you are still stuck with the ho-hum shock absorber and springs of the stock car - the TPC DSC merely modifies the brain the controls them.

2. If this is eventually going to be a car that is involved in "serious" track speed type driving or canyon carving, and $ is an issue, then I would vote for coilover only. Why? For advanced level suspension tuning, sooner or later you will have to replace the stock shock absorber and very soft springs, meaning, you *will* need a new coilover. If you change to coilover, the need for TPC DSC becomes less critical, and you do not need TPC DSC at all if you are going to use non PASM shock absorbers such as Ohlins, KW, JRZ, etx. (Not common but there have been people who felt the need to move on to coilover after TPC DSC.) You save $ 1k+.

3. If $ is no issue, then both Bilstein coilover and TPC DSC! (As mentioned, don't get TPC DSC if you are planning on non-Bilstein, non PASM coilover.) All IMHO and hope this helps.

 

I recently took a year off from the track due to a recent move and am ready to get back out there. The problem is, I don't remember what alignment my tech use to put on my car for track/street driving. I had him set my car to OEM specs before I moved and it remains this way today. I cannot stand the floaty feeling that's felt up around and above 100 mph. What alignment specs do you recommend.

I have the Bilstein PSS10's, and H&R Swaybars currently installed.

 

I received the following guidance from TPC, has worked well for me.


Stock 997 turboalignment spec
Front camber -0.15 degree
Front toe +0.7mm (or +5')
Rear camber -1.3 degree
Rear toe +1.4mm (or +10')


GT2 "street" alignment spec
Front camber -1.3 degree
Front toe +0.7mm (or +5')
Rear camber -1.35 degree
Rear toe +1.7mm (or +13')


GT2 "intermediate track"
Front camber -2.0 degree
Front toe 0
Rear camber -1.5 degree
Rear toe +2.0mm (or +14')


GT2 "full track"
Front camber -2.7 degree
Front toe -1.0mm (or -7')
Rear camber -2.2 degree
Rear toe +2.0mm (or 14')


I recommend the intermediate track spec. Usually top line high performancestreet tires such as Michelin Pilot SuperSport or Bridgestone RE11 last around10K miles for street use with intermediate track spec.

 

I run the Supersports. Do you have any suspension mods?

 

I do have some minimum modifications. Front lower control arms, DSC, f&r sway bars, adjustable rear toe links, and used TPC recommendation for mid street/track alignment. Seems to have worked well on track, need more miles on street to access impact on tires.

 

Hi, the following setting, the so called GT3 street alignment, has been used by many. Essentially the key is to max out front camber at -1.2, and set rear camber at -1.6. Next if you are bothered by the lazy steering response of the Turbo and want to improve turn-in response, set slight toe-out in front.

Has had it in my car for many years: very stable, not jittery, and tire wear is minimal.

 

This is what the guy that used to work on my car said. Judging by your numbers, this is very similar to yours, correct?

"I would put as much negative camber as possible in the front with 0 toe in.
I would run 1.8 degrees of negative camber in the rear but with the Turbo rear toe spec"

Forgive my ignorance, I just know how to drive the thing!

 

Yes with one suggestion for your tuner : our Turbo has very lazy steering and poor turn-in response compared to GT2/GT3. The best way to deal with this is a slight front toe-out (you see this in the GT2 track alignment above). Front toe out also helps to reduce understeer.

As mentioned, subjectively a slight toe out makes the car a lot more fun to drive (more responsive), even at the lower speed of street/canyon "sporty" driving. At mild setting like mine, it is completely stable and does not hurt tire wear. This is the secret sauce :-) for Turbo alignment.

 

Just dropped the car off and added the "secret sauce" to the formula. I'll report back. Thank you!

 

What tires are you on? You shouldn't be getting the floaty feeling if you have Bilstein's and sways. But good tires and good alignment goes a long way. If it doesn't work then get the DSC. Best bang for the buck suspension mod out there.

 

Super sports.

 

What spring rates? Also the floaty feeling you are talking about is mainly at high speeds or?