Fried my PCCBs on the Track--- switching to Brembo GT
#19
Sounds like you cooked everything but the rotors themselves, which is encouraging from the rotor standpoint, but not anywhere else.
What kind of fluid were you running? Brake cooling? Better pads would have only exhaggerated the effect by transferring more heat due to more grip. However they probably wouldn't have worn as fast and the thinner the pad, the more heat transfer soI guess it depends on how much pad material was left.
That's some serious braking if you melted all four corners man, you definitely need some 600* fluid which should be a must for any car with 300 or more hp with 3000 or more lbs especially if your tracks are hard on the brakes. Some GT3 RS/Cup ducts would help. The good thing is your brakes never gave out on you.
What kind of fluid were you running? Brake cooling? Better pads would have only exhaggerated the effect by transferring more heat due to more grip. However they probably wouldn't have worn as fast and the thinner the pad, the more heat transfer soI guess it depends on how much pad material was left.
That's some serious braking if you melted all four corners man, you definitely need some 600* fluid which should be a must for any car with 300 or more hp with 3000 or more lbs especially if your tracks are hard on the brakes. Some GT3 RS/Cup ducts would help. The good thing is your brakes never gave out on you.
#20
I was running stock fluid, but again I never got ANY brake fade, so that was not the issue.
I was running Cup tires with the EVT 700 setup at Thunderhill. Main hard braking is done on main straight (142mph down to 85-ish), back straight (125-ish down to 45-ish) and a tight turn (11?) from 80-ish to 30-ish.
I am not the bravest / most talented driver out there, so I thikn I tend to over brake-- so add that to the mix.
Also, the pads were indeed getting thin (had just worn through the wear sensors--- then I immediately got off track so did not run them below that thickness).
Had I kept the PCCBs, I would prob not run the pads below 1/3 thickness--- which becomes painful / expensive. They are hard to change at the track and this rule would mean (for me) getting a $1000 pad swap done after every three trackdays.
I am hopeful that the Brembo GT brakes will have more pad surface area / wear life and will be easier to swap at the track.
I was running Cup tires with the EVT 700 setup at Thunderhill. Main hard braking is done on main straight (142mph down to 85-ish), back straight (125-ish down to 45-ish) and a tight turn (11?) from 80-ish to 30-ish.
I am not the bravest / most talented driver out there, so I thikn I tend to over brake-- so add that to the mix.
Also, the pads were indeed getting thin (had just worn through the wear sensors--- then I immediately got off track so did not run them below that thickness).
Had I kept the PCCBs, I would prob not run the pads below 1/3 thickness--- which becomes painful / expensive. They are hard to change at the track and this rule would mean (for me) getting a $1000 pad swap done after every three trackdays.
I am hopeful that the Brembo GT brakes will have more pad surface area / wear life and will be easier to swap at the track.
#21
Give me a call for a quote on the Brembo chrisn! Thanks!
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damon@tirerack.com
877-522-8473 ext. 4643
574-287-2345 ext. 4643
**Don't forget to add my name to online orders!**
Or use this link:
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BH1&url=index.jsp
#23
I always thought (maybe wrongly) that "boiled fluid" would lead to brake fade / soft pedal since the bubbles in boiled fluid compresses instead of transmitting clamping force, whereas the liquid fluid doesn't compress. If I'm correct, then I don't think it was boiled fluid, because brakes worked great all day...
#24
No, you are right, boiled fluid does result in soft pedal and eventual failure. However since he Carbons are so grippy you may have had a loss of pedal pressure and not really felt it as much or as fast as you would with steel. The result is everything else overheating before your pedal softening. The one thing about ceramics is that they can take a ton more heat than steel and still work.
Sometimes your fluid can boil and just go out without a soft pedal as well. You are fortunate to have had neither happen.
Sometimes your fluid can boil and just go out without a soft pedal as well. You are fortunate to have had neither happen.
#28
Cool. 15" in the rear should do the trick. I am placing my faith in physics-- if heat build up is the problem, more surface area on the rotor has to be part of the solution....
#29
here you go fellas.... considerably larger in the rear too and makes the fronts look small
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...e-upgrade.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...e-upgrade.html