From my experience, the LWFW has made modulating a launch a bit tougher. On the flip side, the rev match (heel & toe) requires much less effort. So to your point Can, engagement is a bit different and takes a little getting used to.

 

The flywheel will have nothing to do with feel. Feel is based on the clamping force of the pressure plate along with disc type and material.

 

I'm 99% sure my setup is the same as Mike/Todd's at AWE before they swapped back to the OEM dual mass flywheel.

The engagement point is nearly identical to the stock flywheel, which you know is pretty high compared to other vehicles. The engagement "range" is slightly shorter, but you can still modulate it to inch the car forward up a hill.

There are several that have them on the 996TT that use a clutch stop to make the travel length shorter.

That's the best I can do without having you drive my car (which you are welcome if you ever decide you like the snow )

- bob

 

Really? Interesting...

I have driven a myriad of cars with and without flywheels. Especially on the modern Porsches I don't feel a difference on engagement or modulation if using a clutch plate and disc combo that was similar to stock.

 

+1 ^^ My experience is limited since I've only driven one. The engagement was high up and found it difficult to modulate. It would take a bit of getting used to as GB said. I don't exactly know what set-up it was but my 2.5 set-up feels like stock, perhaps a little better since you can also feel a more defined clamping, especially in 2nd gear which never felt great.

 

Gene seems to indicate in one of his posts that he uses the stock clutch disc, instead of the Sachs xxxx973 clutch disc?

Could you comment on this please? What's the advantage/disadvantage of re-using stock clutch disc versus xxxxx973? TIA

BTW, Tom (of Lucent) keeps telling me I need to replace my clutch. When I drive, nothing happens, when he drives, immediately the clutch slips. Hmmmm. I don't dare to ask him anymore how he test drives my car.

 

There is a modification to the clutch if the engagement feels too high...

You can remove the slave out from the transmission and pull the pin out and cut it to move the engagement point lower.

 

I will have to call Gene to get a clarification since I sold him the 973 disc along with his 764 plate.

 

I could be a little overly sensitive, but that is what I have experienced. I think for me, the quicker throttle response affects my ability to modulate the shorter and higher engagement point of my setup. The engagement point is definitely higher than stock.

 

Ok, I was referring to "feel" as the point where the disc meets the flywheel while lifting your foot.

What you are talking about is the height at which that happens. I understand now.

Ok, I have noticed it slightly higher, but as for what I was calling "feel", that has not changed with or without the flywheel.

Simple misunderstanding. We are on the same page now...

 

Thanks for all the great feedback guys - very useful thread!

I took the Turbo out this morning and tried to replicate the slipping clutch. Temperatures were between 5-7 degC. In 5th gear and below I couldnt get any slip no matter what I tried. In 6th, with full acceleration from 60mph with overboost (1.2 bar) on a flat motorway - nothing.

So it seems that only at 50mph in 6th gear do I get clutch slip. I can still smell the clutch from last week when I did it though!

So I'm not so sure I need a new clutch right now after all. I think if it starts slipping more often then a Sachs stage 2 clutch with the OEM dual-mass-flywheel will be required. If I was going to move to a single-mass-flywheel then I would upgrade right now as it would be a performance enhancement. But for just a functional upgrade, I think I can avoid 50mph 6th gear runs in cold temps for daily drives and stick with OEM

 

Alex, and thanks for starting the helpful thread.

As far as the clutch slip, 60 mph in 6th gear is about 2300 rpm? I am no expert but I think the clutch would be more likely to slip at a much higher rpm. Why? Because you are looking for the point where there is maximum torque on the clutch, causing it to slip. In our Turbo this would be above 3000 rpm, where the "power explosion" occurs. More specifically the torque plateau of our Turbo's is around 3300 rpm to 4300 rpm range (depending on which dyno but this is the general range).

In my car, I vaguely remember it was 4th gear around 3800 rpm. The needle just slips from 3800 to 4800 rpm without any speed change in the car. Anyone has anything to add to this please?

 

I think maybe Alex is referring to the 60mph in 6th gear as a starting point. I had about the same start point when my clutch started slipping. I would be cruising at about 60 mph in 6th gear with overboost on and then full throttle the car. The turbos would spool and the tach would start to move, but with hesitation. It would eventually let go like you describe and scream to redline without any change in speed. I have found that it would do this in 5th and 6th gear with overboost on. Didn't see this with overboost off or in any other gear.

 

Alex 997tt, pardon my asking but what is the rating for the stock 997tt pressure plate? Im planning an ecu remap shortly and hope to avoid any clutch slip issues .

 

Hi Can, In higher gear (at lower rpm) you stress the clutch more. It's harder to keep up with the revs when you goose it so it slips.