The Tech1-110 in 19x8.5 (7.53Kg) and 19x11.5 (8.93Kg) in anodized finish are the lightest we make in this series. The Tech1-109 is about 150 grams heavier.
The Tech1-210 is 7.31 kg (front) and 8.68 Kg (rear). This is due to the straighter spokes in the concave design.

All of our monoblock wheels are 100% TPMS compatible.

 

Are those your lightest wheels??

 

Putting the quotes together:

Champion RS 98: 19x8.5 (8.2 kg), 19x11.5 (9.06 kg)

Dymags: front (7.62kg), rear (9.30kg) (Seem high?? They are actual measured weights by imcarnuts.)

Tech1-110: 19x8.5 (7.53Kg) , 19x11.5 (8.93 Kg)

BBS Fi: 19x8.75 (7.4 kg ), 19x12 (8.9 kg)

I haven't looked up the costs (lazy), but note that there are large differences between the wheels: Dymag 10k? >BBS Fi 7k?>Champion 5.5k?>Tech1 4k? (Please correct me as needed.).

 

HRE C/F series?

OZ ulraleggera?

FORZA F?

 

HRE C/F are 10k so i think we don't really mind

 

The Tech1s are $4795 list for 19s and $4995 list for 20s. But we currently have a group buy going for April
Our Tech1-210 is a bit lighter than the Tech1-110 due to the straighter spokes.

Last I heard the HRE CF was no longer available due to their rim supplier going bust. Please correct me if i'm wrong.

 

And for some reason I think someone is going to comp me for this summary table. Ironic it would be that the self proclaimed founder of the P40 club got comped for Tech1 wheel.

 

Here's some irony for you. I'm a big fan of the P40. I was part of the team at HRE back in '06/'07 that developed and launched the HRE Monoblok program.
The P40 has become an iconic wheel in the Porsche community.
But times change.
Now there are fresh styles, low weights, centerlocks, etc.
But as I've said countless times, competition is a wonderful thing. It keeps us sharp and it keeps things moving.

 

How interesting!! The tangled web...
I followed the P40 even when it was called the M40 (M for Mercedes?). Yes, "iconic" is the word -- not because I have it either. Dymag and P40 remain 2 of the most beautiful wheels ever designed.

And yes competition is good. Knowing HRE -- I am certain they are not standing still. Alan might even be reading this for all I know!

I still would like to ask you some more questions about a comment you made earlier if you don't mind.

 

Mike (or anyone), one more question: If these are these advantages, why do race cars use multi-piece wheel please?
From what I could tell from the enclosed picture and in real life, they look like multi-piece BBS aluminum (or is it magnesium) wheel, no? (Please correct me as needed.)

 

Great question! The answer is cost. Making a variety of wheel widths, offsets, bolt patterns, etc. is relatively inexpensive with 3-piece wheels compared to monoblocks. You can mix a center with a combination of inners and outers and get where you want fairly cheaply.
Conversely, monoblock wheels are usually purpose-built and weight optimized for a single application. Changing the offset of a properly weight optimized monoblock wheel is not just a matter of milling the backpad. Often, it requires reshaping the curvature of the face. That in turn could require a different forging, different spin tooling, a different lathe program, or all three. And a 19x8.5 for a Porsche is a very different wheel than a 19x8.5 for an S-Class Mercedes. Face profile, rim thickness, etc are all different. Not so with most 3-piece programs.
Race cars are highly variable so having a 3-piece program that allows you to make 10 Teams' wheels, all from a small variety of components, is WAAAAAY cheaper than monoblocks.

 

Hi Mike, one more question and I will be done with you. Ok maybe be 2, or 3. (I very much appreciate the professional expertise.)

Back to the issue: twice now I've seen bad runout mentioned as a possible cause to wheel instability.

1. Just curious: Is this radial and lateral runout that you (& Champion) are talking about? If radial, I assume this kind of problem won't be taken care of adequately during installation by rotating tire on rim and make the overall runout even?

2. Are you saying bad runout is more of a problem with multi-piece wheel, versus monoblock wheel? And...

3. More specifically, only the *forged* (not cast) monoblock wheel has minimum runout? Thanks again.

 

Can you point me in the direction of the group buy?

I thought there was an issue with supply atm?

 

1. Both radial and lateral runout can cause annoying vibration and instability. They also have a bad impact on your driving psyche. Theoretically, you could have a tire with bad radial runout and a wheel with the opposite bad runout and they would cancel each other out. But that will be rare. Lateral runout cannot be compensated for.
2. Multi-piece wheels require precision alignment during assembly. The individual components each have runout and so the tolerances can "stack". You could look through a batch of components and pick the ones that best offset the deficiencies in the other components. Very laborious and I have never seen this in practice at any wheel company. What generally happens is the assembly runout standards are just lower. A common standard for multi-piece wheels is .025 in (0.6mm). Most quality monoblock wheels use 0.3mm as the standard and this is required by all of our European tuner customers. The difference doesn't sound like much, but it requires precision fixtures and machining. It also creates a very smooth high-speed driving experience.
3. Any monoblock wheel that is made with great care can achieve the tolerances described. The OEMs use lots of cast wheels that are 0.3mm true.
The material is not the issue, only the workmanship and quality systems.

Love the questions....ask all you want. Forewarned is forearmed.

 

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