Oil consumption question
#46
I do not like to read/hear of car owners waiting until the low oil warning light comes on to add oil.
I strongly advise you to use the oil level checking system built into the car and add oil before the level gets low enough to cause the low level light to come on. But do not overfill the engine with oil either.
Absent any other signs of engine troubles, no check engine light, no overheating, loss of coolant, no oil leaks, while the engine's oil consumption is a bit on the high side, it is still within acceptable limits.
Be careful you do not let needless concern over oil consumption that falls within the normal range of oil consumption to ruin your enjoyment of what is a very fine automobile.
Oil consumption depends upon many factors, some of which are how the car is driven, the oil used, how often it is changed.
Use a good approved oil of the proper type and viscosity grade. Change it at reasonable intervals. An oil as it is used gathers/accumulates water and unburned fuel and this reduces the oil's ability to protect the engine but also can add to the tendency of the engine to burn oil.
If you can avoid excessive idling and remember to high rpm usage generally ups oil consumption too.
But regardless, enjoy the car.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I strongly advise you to use the oil level checking system built into the car and add oil before the level gets low enough to cause the low level light to come on. But do not overfill the engine with oil either.
Absent any other signs of engine troubles, no check engine light, no overheating, loss of coolant, no oil leaks, while the engine's oil consumption is a bit on the high side, it is still within acceptable limits.
Be careful you do not let needless concern over oil consumption that falls within the normal range of oil consumption to ruin your enjoyment of what is a very fine automobile.
Oil consumption depends upon many factors, some of which are how the car is driven, the oil used, how often it is changed.
Use a good approved oil of the proper type and viscosity grade. Change it at reasonable intervals. An oil as it is used gathers/accumulates water and unburned fuel and this reduces the oil's ability to protect the engine but also can add to the tendency of the engine to burn oil.
If you can avoid excessive idling and remember to high rpm usage generally ups oil consumption too.
But regardless, enjoy the car.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Will carry on enjoying the car then, always have the warranty to fall back on in any case!
#48
years back my V10 BMW M5 engine was taking 1 quart of very expensive Castrol 10w-50 oil every 700-800 mil. on a new engine.
The V8 AMG 6.3 engine takes no oil.
16k. miles on 08 TT change oil twice a year , never needed to add a drop.
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16k. miles on 08 TT change oil twice a year , never needed to add a drop.
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#49
In 7600 miles on my 2011 TTS, I haven't added a quart of oil.
The two enemies of ring seating are operation at constant RPM and constant load. Vary the RPM and vary the load (within reason) and things should go well.
Manufacturers recommend limited speed and load for additional reasons besides engine break in. Bearing seating is occurring in the whole driveline, and the manufacturers want this to be completed before stressing the system.
The two enemies of ring seating are operation at constant RPM and constant load. Vary the RPM and vary the load (within reason) and things should go well.
Manufacturers recommend limited speed and load for additional reasons besides engine break in. Bearing seating is occurring in the whole driveline, and the manufacturers want this to be completed before stressing the system.
The seating of the piston rings represents only a small part of the running in process and there are so many bearing and running surfaces throughout the engine and car, all which require correct bedding in processes. I'm a believer that its best to run her in by the book....or within sensible reason
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#50
I ran in my '03 996 Turbo and my '07 997 Turbo with absolute care regarding varying loads and engine speeds, never lugging the engine and never exceeding 4200 rpm for the first 2000 miles. Even after break in, I never took short trips, never raced the engine when the oil is cold etc. Both those cars burned at least a qt every 1000 miles! I would have to carry oil with me on trips, try to find Mobil 1 0W-40 at a gas station on the I 5.
Happily, I guess either Porsche has remedied this problem with the later models or my new break in method has worked; my GT 2 RS hasn't used a quart yet at 3200 miles.
I used a different break in method with this car, one that a mechanic friend of mine recommended many years ago for engines which use synthetic oil. He said to not baby the engine during break in, vary the loads and speeds as usual, but rev it up and run it pretty hard. With 20 miles on the odometer, I drove to the canyons and put on 60 miles just getting home from the dealership, mostly in the lowest gears, but reving it, even occasionally to red line, briefly of course, and generally getting on it.
The next day, to the canyons above Malibu for another 200 miles of similar driving, rewarded at the end of the day with a speeding ticket. I will trade the fine for an oil tight engine.
Since the break in period is over now, I have been following the same method, avoiding running at a constant speed or load, but also getting hard on the gas! This is the sweetest, cleanest, most delightfully running car I have ever owned, well worth the money. But I did not want to own arguably the finest car in the world and have to carry oil around with me. So I followed my intuition and experience from previous ownership, and took the plunge. I am happy I did, and would recommend the same to others.
Happily, I guess either Porsche has remedied this problem with the later models or my new break in method has worked; my GT 2 RS hasn't used a quart yet at 3200 miles.
I used a different break in method with this car, one that a mechanic friend of mine recommended many years ago for engines which use synthetic oil. He said to not baby the engine during break in, vary the loads and speeds as usual, but rev it up and run it pretty hard. With 20 miles on the odometer, I drove to the canyons and put on 60 miles just getting home from the dealership, mostly in the lowest gears, but reving it, even occasionally to red line, briefly of course, and generally getting on it.
The next day, to the canyons above Malibu for another 200 miles of similar driving, rewarded at the end of the day with a speeding ticket. I will trade the fine for an oil tight engine.
Since the break in period is over now, I have been following the same method, avoiding running at a constant speed or load, but also getting hard on the gas! This is the sweetest, cleanest, most delightfully running car I have ever owned, well worth the money. But I did not want to own arguably the finest car in the world and have to carry oil around with me. So I followed my intuition and experience from previous ownership, and took the plunge. I am happy I did, and would recommend the same to others.
#51
Since the break in period is over now, I have been following the same method, avoiding running at a constant speed or load, but also getting hard on the gas! This is the sweetest, cleanest, most delightfully running car I have ever owned, well worth the money. But I did not want to own arguably the finest car in the world and have to carry oil around with me.
#53
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#54
I will let you know if mine starts using oil, believe me, I am watching it like a hawk. Maybe it's like others have said, especially if you are driving only 2500 miles per year, that the buildup of moisture and other by products in the sump created the appearance that the oil level remained at the top of the gauge. Its possible that as the oil was consumed, it was replaced kby water and other substances. Normally, these substances are burnt or evaporate when the oil stays hot for a period of time, during extended operation. It this case, the actual oil consumption would be indicated by the level indicated by the gauge
Before synthetic oil was popular and you would change oil every 3000 miles, no one noticed oil consumption unless there was blue smoke coming out of the exhaust! Only a worn engine would consume oil, like a qt every 1000 miles,
Before synthetic oil was popular and you would change oil every 3000 miles, no one noticed oil consumption unless there was blue smoke coming out of the exhaust! Only a worn engine would consume oil, like a qt every 1000 miles,
#55
I will let you know if mine starts using oil, believe me, I am watching it like a hawk.Before synthetic oil was popular and you would change oil every 3000 miles, no one noticed oil consumption unless there was blue smoke coming out of the exhaust! Only a worn engine would consume oil, like a qt every 1000 miles,
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#57
brand new to the p-car family, and just bought a 01' 996 TT. It has 4k miles on it and computer is telling me low oil leve. Threads say to add oil or top off, but how do you know how much. Can you hurt it if too much is added?
#59
OIl consumption
If you do happen to overfill, I used a Mity Vac connected to a thin plastic tube fed down the oil filler tube and pumped out excess oil.
Just an update on the GT2 RS, I have 6300 miles on the car and have added only 1.5 quarts of oil. I attribute the low oil consumption to the break in procedure I used, which was the hard break in as opposed to the rev regulated break in as specified in the owners manual, ie limit the revs to 4200 rpm for the first 2000 miles.
My previous cars, an '03 996 Turbo and a '07 997 each used a quart every 1000 miles like clockwork, and those I very carefully followed instructions.
Athough, a user on this site posted an owners survey he had done, which showed no correlation between break in procedure and oil consumption, so there you go.
Just an update on the GT2 RS, I have 6300 miles on the car and have added only 1.5 quarts of oil. I attribute the low oil consumption to the break in procedure I used, which was the hard break in as opposed to the rev regulated break in as specified in the owners manual, ie limit the revs to 4200 rpm for the first 2000 miles.
My previous cars, an '03 996 Turbo and a '07 997 each used a quart every 1000 miles like clockwork, and those I very carefully followed instructions.
Athough, a user on this site posted an owners survey he had done, which showed no correlation between break in procedure and oil consumption, so there you go.
#60
If you do happen to overfill, I used a Mity Vac connected to a thin plastic tube fed down the oil filler tube and pumped out excess oil.
Just an update on the GT2 RS, I have 6300 miles on the car and have added only 1.5 quarts of oil. I attribute the low oil consumption to the break in procedure I used, which was the hard break in as opposed to the rev regulated break in as specified in the owners manual, ie limit the revs to 4200 rpm for the first 2000 miles.
My previous cars, an '03 996 Turbo and a '07 997 each used a quart every 1000 miles like clockwork, and those I very carefully followed instructions.
Athough, a user on this site posted an owners survey he had done, which showed no correlation between break in procedure and oil consumption, so there you go.
Just an update on the GT2 RS, I have 6300 miles on the car and have added only 1.5 quarts of oil. I attribute the low oil consumption to the break in procedure I used, which was the hard break in as opposed to the rev regulated break in as specified in the owners manual, ie limit the revs to 4200 rpm for the first 2000 miles.
My previous cars, an '03 996 Turbo and a '07 997 each used a quart every 1000 miles like clockwork, and those I very carefully followed instructions.
Athough, a user on this site posted an owners survey he had done, which showed no correlation between break in procedure and oil consumption, so there you go.
Like to see how you put miles on your GT2 RS - I have 7000 miles on my SL65 BS.