60-130 test for 997.2 PDK turbo w/Protomotive reflash
#31
09-02-2010, 10:36 AM
congrats on a sweet car shotcaller.
Is there a "standard" way to do a 60-130? I know some people start at say 50mph and stomp on it to build boost.
In my opinion, I think it would be more useful for comparison purposes if the tester was rolling at 60mph and then stomped on it. Then you could compare b/w different cars. For example, there are a number of cars that have verified 60-130 of about 7.8seconds which is the same as a ZR1 but my impression is that if you were rolling at 60mph the ZR1 would take off instantly when stomping on it but a Pcar might have just a slight delay while waiting for boost. Thoughts? Don't want to hijack this thread but I thought it was sort of relevant to the topic in general.
Is there a "standard" way to do a 60-130? I know some people start at say 50mph and stomp on it to build boost.
In my opinion, I think it would be more useful for comparison purposes if the tester was rolling at 60mph and then stomped on it. Then you could compare b/w different cars. For example, there are a number of cars that have verified 60-130 of about 7.8seconds which is the same as a ZR1 but my impression is that if you were rolling at 60mph the ZR1 would take off instantly when stomping on it but a Pcar might have just a slight delay while waiting for boost. Thoughts? Don't want to hijack this thread but I thought it was sort of relevant to the topic in general.
For example; when a magazine tests a car's 100-200 kp/h, they do it by starting from 0 and then they measure times at different intervals throughout the entire run. That shows what the car does at full throttle, all throughout the speed range.
For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
Last edited by Divexxtreme; 09-02-2010 at 10:40 AM.
#32
09-02-2010, 12:05 PM
congrats on a sweet car shotcaller.
Is there a "standard" way to do a 60-130? I know some people start at say 50mph and stomp on it to build boost.
In my opinion, I think it would be more useful for comparison purposes if the tester was rolling at 60mph and then stomped on it. Then you could compare b/w different cars. For example, there are a number of cars that have verified 60-130 of about 7.8seconds which is the same as a ZR1 but my impression is that if you were rolling at 60mph the ZR1 would take off instantly when stomping on it but a Pcar might have just a slight delay while waiting for boost. Thoughts? Don't want to hijack this thread but I thought it was sort of relevant to the topic in general.
Is there a "standard" way to do a 60-130? I know some people start at say 50mph and stomp on it to build boost.
In my opinion, I think it would be more useful for comparison purposes if the tester was rolling at 60mph and then stomped on it. Then you could compare b/w different cars. For example, there are a number of cars that have verified 60-130 of about 7.8seconds which is the same as a ZR1 but my impression is that if you were rolling at 60mph the ZR1 would take off instantly when stomping on it but a Pcar might have just a slight delay while waiting for boost. Thoughts? Don't want to hijack this thread but I thought it was sort of relevant to the topic in general.
#33
09-02-2010, 03:34 PM
If you had re-done the run on the same side of the road, with no decline, your time would have changed as well. While a decline does indeed help times overall, there are many other variables that also help.
This is why some of the fastest times on this forum have been produced on very flat roads, or even those with slight inclines. There's much more to it than slope angle.
This is why some of the fastest times on this forum have been produced on very flat roads, or even those with slight inclines. There's much more to it than slope angle.
#34
09-02-2010, 06:10 PM
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That would cause times to be everywhere on the map. Not only would another variables be introduced (the ability of the driver to maintain exactly 60 mph before stomping the accelerator) but also would make it impossible to compare to acceleration tests performed by magazines.
For example; when a magazine tests a car's 100-200 kp/h, they do it by starting from 0 and then they measure times at different intervals throughout the entire run. That shows what the car does at full throttle, all throughout the speed range.
For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
For example; when a magazine tests a car's 100-200 kp/h, they do it by starting from 0 and then they measure times at different intervals throughout the entire run. That shows what the car does at full throttle, all throughout the speed range.
For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
#35
09-02-2010, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,666
Rep Power: 235 Any decline makes a massive difference in times.. I normally test my cars on a completely flat road with ZERO decline, and as an example my best time on pump 91 was 5.7 60-130... I ended up trying that same run on the same day on the way home on what turned out to be just a .04% decline...just a fraction of the 3.0% that is allowed and turned 5.47.
#36
09-02-2010, 06:16 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
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Rep Power: 235 For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
#37
09-02-2010, 06:17 PM
#38
09-02-2010, 06:29 PM
Scott, I know you have a lot of experience with Pcars and vettes, what does it take for a Pcar to stay with a ZR1 from a roll of around 60mph to about 130? Just asking out of curiosity b/c the way people describe the ZR1 it is clawing for traction at 60mph, and it's 60-130 is high 7s. My car certainly doesn't have the power to spin the tires at 60mph but I think it is in the high 7s with flash and hiflo exhaust. Appreciate your thoughts as always.
Heck, my Z06 with a built motor and ZR1 blower made 722 rwhp and 660 rwtq. It made 630rwtq at only 2800 rpm and I could break 345/30 street tires loose at over 100 mph! Sure, with drag radials on, it was very fast. But my GT2 at only 700 rwhp (on 93 octane) is faster.
P-cars hook unbelievably well, which is part of the whole package. They make lots of power, have great torque curves, put that power down effectively, have awesome aero, great gearing, and very efficient cooling. They just require a driver to match and they will do surprisingly well against pretty much anyting within 150 whp of them.
Whenever you are racing another car, the most important thing you can do right off the bat is make sure you are in the right gear. If you start out in too low off a gear, you won't be in the correct rpm range for the turbos, meaning you will experience a noticeable delay before boosts come on. Not good.
It really comes to the driver and his potential to maximize his car's abilities.
#39
09-02-2010, 09:11 PM
Twin Turbo Gallardo on its lowest setting.. On same road on 100 octane it went 4.8 spinning both 3rd and 4th on 20's..
#40
09-03-2010, 12:34 PM
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For a monent we thought you were talking about a 997TT tip car...
#44
09-05-2010, 07:23 AM
To stay with a ZR1, it will need an exhaust and a good tune at a minimum. The reason the ZR1 spins the tires at 60 is not only because it makes lots of power (moreso due to the torque that comes on so quickly, than to the HP), but mostly because it's a front-engine, rwd car that makes lots of power (torque). Keep in mind, being able to spin the tires at 60 is not really a good thing, and doesn't necessarily make for a fast car.
Heck, my Z06 with a built motor and ZR1 blower made 722 rwhp and 660 rwtq. It made 630rwtq at only 2800 rpm and I could break 345/30 street tires loose at over 100 mph! Sure, with drag radials on, it was very fast. But my GT2 at only 700 rwhp (on 93 octane) is faster.
P-cars hook unbelievably well, which is part of the whole package. They make lots of power, have great torque curves, put that power down effectively, have awesome aero, great gearing, and very efficient cooling. They just require a driver to match and they will do surprisingly well against pretty much anyting within 150 whp of them.
Whenever you are racing another car, the most important thing you can do right off the bat is make sure you are in the right gear. If you start out in too low off a gear, you won't be in the correct rpm range for the turbos, meaning you will experience a noticeable delay before boosts come on. Not good.
It really comes to the driver and his potential to maximize his car's abilities.
Heck, my Z06 with a built motor and ZR1 blower made 722 rwhp and 660 rwtq. It made 630rwtq at only 2800 rpm and I could break 345/30 street tires loose at over 100 mph! Sure, with drag radials on, it was very fast. But my GT2 at only 700 rwhp (on 93 octane) is faster.
P-cars hook unbelievably well, which is part of the whole package. They make lots of power, have great torque curves, put that power down effectively, have awesome aero, great gearing, and very efficient cooling. They just require a driver to match and they will do surprisingly well against pretty much anyting within 150 whp of them.
Whenever you are racing another car, the most important thing you can do right off the bat is make sure you are in the right gear. If you start out in too low off a gear, you won't be in the correct rpm range for the turbos, meaning you will experience a noticeable delay before boosts come on. Not good.
It really comes to the driver and his potential to maximize his car's abilities.
I had one and sold it. The car was a monster once it hooked up but traction was always an issue. Just a bit too much and the tires would spin at any legal speed. Against the TTS from a dig it would not stand a chance. On the other hand up on the highway I think the TTS would be it's equal for a while but eventually the HP of the ZR1 would overcome the TTS.
#45
09-05-2010, 08:04 AM
That would cause times to be everywhere on the map. Not only would another variables be introduced (the ability of the driver to maintain exactly 60 mph before stomping the accelerator) but also would make it impossible to compare to acceleration tests performed by magazines.
For example; when a magazine tests a car's 100-200 kp/h, they do it by starting from 0 and then they measure times at different intervals throughout the entire run. That shows what the car does at full throttle, all throughout the speed range.
For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
For example; when a magazine tests a car's 100-200 kp/h, they do it by starting from 0 and then they measure times at different intervals throughout the entire run. That shows what the car does at full throttle, all throughout the speed range.
For 60-130s, there is only one standard method to use for comparison: stomp the throttle well before 60 mph and stay WOT until you pass 130 (the sooner you are WOT before 60, the better). Only then will you have an accurate time that shows what the car is truly capable of.
I can re-test it again from rolling if u want