DIY Brake fluid??
#1
DIY Brake fluid??
Just curious if there is a DIY brake fluid for 997 turbo?
I found one for 996TT which I presume will be very similar but wasn't sure if 997TT brakes were much different:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064
I also found some helpful info on 997NA forum but again not sure if there are any particulars that I should be concerned with.
Also, is it advisable to flush the clutch? MY 08 has 7K miles and have never been tracked or driven really that hard so not sure if I can wait out brake flush until this spring (2.5yrs)
Thanks
I found one for 996TT which I presume will be very similar but wasn't sure if 997TT brakes were much different:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7064
I also found some helpful info on 997NA forum but again not sure if there are any particulars that I should be concerned with.
It takes less than an hour with the Motive Power bleeder, maybe 1-1/2 hrs if you do the clutch too. You can find this item online at several places. I use the black label one as it has a little bit nicer fitting to screw on to the master cylinder.
Step 1: Basically you empty as much original fluid from the master cylinder as you can with a turkey baster, or I use a pump out of an old softsoap dispenser and carefully pump it into a plastic coke bottle. But first you need to remove the little screen that is in there - this is PITA #1. I use a small pair of needle nose pliers, and you turn it a certain way and it pops out - you have to be fairly forceful to get it to come out and it wants to splash fluid when it pops out. I advise covering any painted surface within range with some plastic.
Step 2: Pour your new brake fluid into the Motive power bleeder and close the lid -- then attach the fitting to the master cylinder. It just screws on there with a little rubber gasket to seal it. Pump the bleeder up to just under 20 psi. Make sure there are no leaks.
Step 3: Jack up the right rear of the car, remove the wheel, and attach about a 2' length of clear plastic tubing to the little niple on the outside caliper, put the other end in an empty coke bottle, then loosen the screw a little bit until the fluid starts to flow. When the fluid changes color, close the screw - careful not to overtighten you can strip the threads - just snug plus maybe 1/16th of a turn more. Repeat for the niple on the inside caliper. Then move and do the same for the left rear, right front then left front in that order. You can optionally bleed the clutch at the same time after doing the left rear. This is PITA #2 and is best if you have 2 people. I'm PM ing you with some more detailed info on this. Be safe and always use jack stands.
Step 4: When you are done you loosen up the lid on the power bleeder to release the pressure, then remove it from the master cylinder. Add or remove fluid from the reservoir to get the right level. Put the screen back in and replace the lid. Check the brakes to make sure they are working before driving off! Keep an eye out for leaks and check the level again after driving the car a while.
You can do this whole process without the power bleeder but you need 2 people - one to pump the brakes while you bleed the fluid, oh and someone to watch that the master cylinder doesn't go empty.
Good luck
PM sent
Step 1: Basically you empty as much original fluid from the master cylinder as you can with a turkey baster, or I use a pump out of an old softsoap dispenser and carefully pump it into a plastic coke bottle. But first you need to remove the little screen that is in there - this is PITA #1. I use a small pair of needle nose pliers, and you turn it a certain way and it pops out - you have to be fairly forceful to get it to come out and it wants to splash fluid when it pops out. I advise covering any painted surface within range with some plastic.
Step 2: Pour your new brake fluid into the Motive power bleeder and close the lid -- then attach the fitting to the master cylinder. It just screws on there with a little rubber gasket to seal it. Pump the bleeder up to just under 20 psi. Make sure there are no leaks.
Step 3: Jack up the right rear of the car, remove the wheel, and attach about a 2' length of clear plastic tubing to the little niple on the outside caliper, put the other end in an empty coke bottle, then loosen the screw a little bit until the fluid starts to flow. When the fluid changes color, close the screw - careful not to overtighten you can strip the threads - just snug plus maybe 1/16th of a turn more. Repeat for the niple on the inside caliper. Then move and do the same for the left rear, right front then left front in that order. You can optionally bleed the clutch at the same time after doing the left rear. This is PITA #2 and is best if you have 2 people. I'm PM ing you with some more detailed info on this. Be safe and always use jack stands.
Step 4: When you are done you loosen up the lid on the power bleeder to release the pressure, then remove it from the master cylinder. Add or remove fluid from the reservoir to get the right level. Put the screen back in and replace the lid. Check the brakes to make sure they are working before driving off! Keep an eye out for leaks and check the level again after driving the car a while.
You can do this whole process without the power bleeder but you need 2 people - one to pump the brakes while you bleed the fluid, oh and someone to watch that the master cylinder doesn't go empty.
Good luck
PM sent
Also, is it advisable to flush the clutch? MY 08 has 7K miles and have never been tracked or driven really that hard so not sure if I can wait out brake flush until this spring (2.5yrs)
Thanks
Last edited by sbkim; 10-25-2010 at 08:47 AM.
#5
You need a pro version of the durametric to bleed the ABS circuit.
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