997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.

Bilstein saga continiue

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  #16  
Old 01-18-2011 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by slawek
Yeas, my experience with lowering springs wasn’t the best . “”Btw neg camber on a 997tt is never more on the rear than the front.””
Speed21 I don’t know where did you get that information from but this is the first for me

My alignment on the car is perfect (as to the height of my car and the offset of my wheels) and so are positions of Bilstein on each corner. The whole idea of presenting my experience with Bilstein was to point out the known lowering too much of the car and the links issue. Also just to set the height on four corners can take more them one day as each time you adjust one its effects the other sides..
“”.or am i missing something here??? “”
I think you missed the fact that my work was completed and I never wrote that I did the alignment and final checkup by myself.
Hi slawek. No. I didnt miss anything. Your use of the term "I" right throughout your post indicts you were speaking first hand as the actual person involved on all set up procedures. Thats what "I" generally means when you use "I". Now If you didn't do the work then the use of the term "the fitter" or, actual person involved, would have been appropriate and would have saved me from misdirecting my comments to you personally, offending you out of order as such.

Insofar as the alignment figures you posted, your neg camber figures quoting the front as having less neg than the rear stood out as being rather odd... to me anyway given the aftermarket coil overs now fitted. Now Im not saying your neg settings wont work....just that from all the set ups ive used and, also heard talked about on cars with adjustable suspension set ups over here, it appears a bit more neg is used on front than rear, and do corner balancing and correct droplink adjustments etc. I see another member has also mentioned for you to consider using tarret plates to get a bit more neg on the front as well. Then again, the guys that i've used over here set up P car suspensions and do alignments as a specialty profession. Their shop is always full of GT3's 2's and TT's etc and they really know their stuff when it comes to alignments etc. Now maybe they need a few lessons from your fitter:rolleyes:.....i don't know, as I'm not the expert here, just a person who has taken an interest in alignment setttings that accommodate for street and track use on my own car so i can get the best out of my tires whilst still achieving excellent cornering capability on road and track. Thats why i would suggest you take your car to someone who specializes in P car set ups for use on track, and who actually knows what they are doing. The fact you are still yet to set up the drops correctly and, corner balance, indict you have some ways (and certainly untapped potential) to go before you can honestly sit back and say job finished...well done etc. Just MHO. It's quite obvious whoever you are using is some way off the game with setting up coil overs least of all doing an alignment that will truly get the best from your money spent so far. Im sure you would have to have shops over your way that set up P cars for the track as a specialty?? PS i note cannga's sig shows he uses bilstein coilovers and has seemingly gone to all lengths to achieve the best out of his dollars spent and whilst he is using more neg on the rear than front i suspect that is due to not having tarrets or GT3 LFCA's
 

Last edited by speed21; 01-18-2011 at 08:11 AM.
  #17  
Old 01-18-2011 | 06:23 AM
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Speed31 i would say it again, I did the installation of the damptronics on my car and I did set up the height of my car including checkup of proper fitment .Alignment and final adjustment was done at Porsche shop.I think that is the proper alignment for the street and occasional track days driving .If you want to set up your tt car as Porsche GT3 R cap car you got my blessing. .
Attached see the specs of alignment settings from different members (in red Porsche factory specifications)-all of them done by professional Porsche shops in US and England so if you say that you guys are using different settings on yours TT I believe you ,but I will stay with what we are using here.
 
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Last edited by slawek; 01-18-2011 at 06:34 AM.
  #18  
Old 01-18-2011 | 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by slawek
All i can tell you it was a disaster ,had to replaced two rear tires and left lower control arm because the rubber boot was damage, naturally somewhere else I've owned over forty cars in my life all of them ware modified and to tell you the truth in the end is not the shop but a mechanik who at very particular day did lousy job.
Do us all a favor and let us know who the shop was? I am on LI and don't want to be subject to this mechanic. i am paying to get it right the first time. I hope you can share and save us from a this guy. I think sharing the good and bad is one of the best parts of this forum
??

Thanks in advance.
 
  #19  
Old 01-18-2011 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by slawek
So, here is my story about Bilstein for you.
In order for you to understand my experience I’ll start from the beginning. My car suspension was always in stock; it wasn’t perfect but was very manageable while driving in the city. .Because of the way my driveway meets the street I know that my lowering of the car was very limited. Well I decided to do it anyway. .I purchased the Eibach pro kit (sways bars +springs) exactly 20 mm. drop. Had them install by a pro shop in Long Island

^^^OK. Got the part where you specified someone other than yourself ("I") had worked on your car.

They did very poor installation and alignment After one week of driving my car the rear tires ware completely gone on the inside. The improvement was some to say the least. Car felt very soft and bouncy at low speeds. And overall didn’t give me the security and safety feeling I was looking for. I try different settings on sway bars but this still didn’t cure the softness of the car especially in the front and after two months of test driving I went back to stock springs keeping Eibach sways in front and rear. Stack suspension even though on the soft site feels very solid and safe if you know what I mean . As you know Porsche tt can do amazing things just the way it is.
Having said all that I still wanted to improve the handling of my car. So believe it or not I went the Bilstain way against all comments that I’ve read on the site.

After purchasing the set of Damptronics decided to do the installation myself.

OK....here it all starts. Here you state "I" right throughout the remainder of your post inc the alignment stage.

First, I measured the height on my car .27, 1/4 rear and 26. ¾ front
Did one corner every day after work and believe me when I say that I took my sweet time to do it. The rear ones were relatively easy to install, I set the high exactly on one inch of the tread on the body of shock. If I could I would suggest to everybody to double check everything before putting the car back on the ground. The front took me a little more time, but I can tell you it is possible to do it without the hub center removal. I compressed the spring of the stack shock before removing it. Set the front height also on one inch. Over, all the installation of the shocks is much easier then what is coming next
Did some test drive and noticed some strange sounds in my front suspension. So back to garage for checkup .First thing I noticed was the right lowering link was touching the head bolt on the wheel carrier when turning the wheels all the way to the right. What I did I install some extra washers (4 mm. in total) to push the lowering link away of the bolt. This allows for link to pass the bolt without any problems Just to keep everything equal I did the same on the left site as well. Went for the test drive and surprisingly I still found some strange clicking noise in the front. It took me more the five hours of test driving and checking everything in the front suspension to finally discover the problem. You see after the car is lowered the whole geometry, position and the stress on the suspension changes. My wishbone (lower control arm) needed to be tighten where it meets with the cross member. Did some more spiritual driving-testing on the most uneven and bumpy roads I could find in my neighborhood, the car was quiet. Now, I was ready to set the height, a very time consuming and painful process.
I started in the rear, set the height to 26.3/4 from the ground to the fender. That is well within the range of the Bilstein specifications. Next was the front .As I mentioned before I set both sides to one inch of thread looking at the bottom of shacks. In this setting my front was uneven, about ½ inch higher on the passenger side. What I did I adjusted the driver side only by raising the body of the shock in the wheel carrier not the spring itself .That allowed me to keep the position of the springs unchanged and equal. With that set I adjusted front height to 26.0. which is just enough for my car to pass my driveway.

Last step was the alignment; my car has HRE Com. C20 wheels that have maximum possible offset making the car wider on wheels. Base on that and lowering that I did I set the front camber to -1.2 total toe 0.08 and rear to -1.6. total toe 0.32 Did some driving again on some very uneven roads (car went up in the air a couple of times) and can tell you that my car right now feels extremely stable, safe and in balance if you know what I mean.


My suggestion to all would be not to drop the car on Bilstein to low I’ve tried different settings and find out that anything below 25.5/8 in front and 26.1/2 in rear become bouncy and hard at high speeds. Also the springs start to make some noises .I’ve got the feeling that suspension when lowered too much was working only at 50% of its potential.It was almost like car was loosing its flexibility
Easy for me (or anyone i imagine) to draw the conclusion you had done "everything" inc wheel alignment settings. Anyways.....nice to know the facts that you hadn't.

Originally Posted by slawek
Speed31 i would say it again,

Actually i understood your response to me the first time and understood what you said in that response that you had your "expert shop" do your alignment. I do however do not back away from my original understanding of your own written words that you had been involved in the setting up of all aspects. Its a bit unrealistic for you to now try have me or anyone believe otherwise.
Sorry.

I did the installation of the damptronics on my car and I did set up the height of my car including checkup of proper fitment .Alignment and final adjustment was done at Porsche shop.

Thats fine but thats not what you were implying in your OP. Again, its good to have clarity on that point.

I think that is the proper alignment for the street and occasional track days driving .If you want to set up your tt car as Porsche GT3 R cap car you got my blessing. .
Attached see the specs of alignment settings from different members (in red Porsche factory specifications)-all of them done by professional Porsche shops in US and England so if you say that you guys are using different settings on yours TT I believe you ,but I will stay with what we are using here.
Thats fine.
However, what i did NOT point out in my previous post (and which i should have) is that the greater majority of users of aftermarket coil over systems here also use in conjunction with other components such as tarrets or GT3 LFCA's whereby the package can be optimized using an alignment that can achieve neg camber settings beyond 1.3 neg on the front. Vanity of lowering is merely a sideline benefit and is not the focal point over in our parts.....handling under sporty driving conditions is. However, whilst neg camber on the rear under stock settings is more than front (front being zero), once a proper alignment is done (inc corner balance and ride heights etc) you can easily wind up with @ -2 (or more) on the front which often equals and/or slightly overtakes the neg setting for the rears. My own experience with such setting is that it has worked very well with getting good wear on both street and track tires whilst delivering great handling. Whilst i'm all for the "each to his own" philosophy, after reading your post which indicts quite clearly that a layperson (yourself) had done all install and set up procedures i felt the need to point out a few deficiencies in that exercise. Needless to say i am still mystified why would you would bother penny pinching on a car like a PT when it came down to changing the entire suspension set up. Sort of made me wonder a few things. Now, I wasn't seeking to set your tail feathers on fire......but it did make me scratch my head in amazement why you would bother attempting such a thing when this kind of work is really best left to experts (i mean real experts). And not experts who one day cant even fit a set of lowering springs and then the next day can miraculously set your alignment whilst allowing your car to leave the shop with drop link issues that need further correction. As i said, there are a few things )inc the photo of the slightly bent link) that would make anyone think WTF is really going on here.


Edit. Re your chart. How many of those listed members are using Tarrets or LFCA's? I wonder just how much the front neg settings would change?
 

Last edited by speed21; 01-18-2011 at 08:25 AM.
  #20  
Old 01-18-2011 | 06:38 PM
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It's tough to run more than about -1.5 front camber without adjustable front lower control arms(ala gt3), or camber plates up top. I have achieved -1.9 with just gmg springs up front. However, at that setting the car will be a bit twitchy on the street. So, I would say one really doesn't need the LCAs on a pure street car.
Re rear tire wear on a lowered car, add adj toe links and that will correct the geometry and save your tires.
 
  #21  
Old 01-18-2011 | 07:21 PM
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Speed21 installation of the coil-over sestem is not as difficult as you think. I did take my sweet time to do it; hey it’s winter in here with lots of snow all over. Perfect time for this type of work.And yeas, you are right I've should clearly stated that the alignment was done at Porsche shop as per my request settings-not to tt specs.I'm not sure if it is even possible to do this by aye. The height adjustment needed to be done by my driveway (I was concern about exhaust touching the road surface if car set to low ) .The Bilstein lowering links problem it’s well known issue and it has nothing to do with me installing coil-overs or Porsche shop that did the alignment.You can read about it in here
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...eak-links.html
I won’t go in to the camber discussion, but will tell you this; there are a lot of tt cars in here with front axle leaking because the drive shafts can’t handle execs camber settings.
All that I wonted to do in my post was to help other members with Bilsteins on there cars by pointing out the noise at lower control arms: lowering link touching the head bolt of wheel carrier and to not to set them to low.
Unfortunately because you Mr.Speed21 wonder so much you turned this post in to down under camber settings and critique of my work and me as a person.I'm well aware about TPC, TRG, , GMG PCI, Taroet products,this is not my first Porsche or high performance car. If you don’t like my post and you think is not worthy the 6speed board I’ll remove it, especially for you.
 

Last edited by slawek; 01-19-2011 at 05:55 AM.
  #22  
Old 01-18-2011 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JSF721
Do us all a favor and let us know who the shop was? I am on LI and don't want to be subject to this mechanic. i am paying to get it right the first time. I hope you can share and save us from a this guy. I think sharing the good and bad is one of the best parts of this forum
??

Thanks in advance.
You got PM
 
  #23  
Old 01-18-2011 | 07:45 PM
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Chris I only lowered it 7 mm. in rear so it's not that low at all ,but with the pasm set to "on" suspension work pretty well.I know you had Bilsteins before but if you ever would like to drive my car you welcome to try it.It has Fabspeed performance package and was dyno tuned by http://www.kssmotorsports.com/index_speedshop.aspx
 

Last edited by slawek; 01-18-2011 at 09:49 PM.
  #24  
Old 01-18-2011 | 07:48 PM
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interestingly enough that chart of alignment specs doesn't show my correct alignment specs at all
 
  #25  
Old 01-18-2011 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by eclou
interestingly enough that chart of alignment specs doesn't show my correct alignment specs at all
Yes, it is from May 2009
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...d-turbo-9.html
 
  #26  
Old 01-18-2011 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by slawek

no those are not my specs. I don't know how else to explain that to you
 
  #27  
Old 01-18-2011 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by eclou
no those are not my specs. I don't know how else to explain that to you
Got it.
 
  #28  
Old 01-19-2011 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by slawek
Speed21 installation of the coil-over sestem is not as difficult as you think. I did take my sweet time to do it; hey it’s winter in here with lots of snow all over.

Have you ever considered taking up skiing as a diversion? JK.

Perfect time for this type of work.And yeas, you are right I've should clearly stated that the alignment was done at Porsche shop as per my request settings-not to tt specs.

No worries. Am clear now.

I'm not sure if it is even possible to do this by aye.

Im no longer surprised what some lay people take on. Im numb to it at this stage in my life. Being in the motor repair industry I regularly see and hear of crazy things that should never have been played around with in the first place. Your story is actually rather mild in comparison to some

The height adjustment needed to be done by my driveway (I was concern about exhaust touching the road surface if car set to low ) .The Bilstein lowering links problem it’s well known issue and it has nothing to do with me installing coil-overs or Porsche shop that did the alignment.You can read about it in here
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...eak-links.html

So i guess you didn't know about that when you did the install? I mean thats why all the issues with the drops. Btw i read your link. The B16 links arent so much the problem at all. Its the install that causes the problem....usually caused by lack of expertise bought about mainly by poor instructions supplied, exacerbated by unfamiliar installers. I guess thats whats happened with yours?

I won’t go in to the camber discussion,

No need to. You made your point. I made mine. No right or wrong. We can all run our individual settings....no problem there.


but will tell you this; there are a lot of tt cars in here with front axle leaking because the drive shafts can’t handle execs camber settings.

Id be interested to hear what went wrong in the set up process. Seriously. Fill me in.


All that I wonted to do in my post was to help other members with Bilsteins on there cars by pointing out the noise at lower control arms: lowering link touching the head bolt of wheel carrier and to not to set them to low.

Sorry for your upset over this but there has been plenty of discussion in recent times about B16's regarding things that have gone wrong even in the hands of so called experts. I guess if your "expert" couldnt manage a lowering spring install on a monday yet can seemingly move planets on a tuesday, then that further proves anythings possible when installing and setting up B16's.


Unfortunately because you Mr.Speed21 wonder so much you turned this post in to down under camber settings and critique of my work and me as a person.

Well i wouldnt use the word "unfortunately" as what has happened here is a few things have been cleared up which needed to be....which is actually a good thing. And, "wondering" usually only ever happens when a person isn't clear.


I'm well aware about TPC, TRG, , GMG PCI, Taroet products

Fine, but being aware of a brand names and available products is one thing....but knowing about the actual intricacies is another. I also have "heard" and "know of them" but to say i am aware of what makes them tick would be a lie. All these products are ultimately dependent upon the set up and the skill of the installer.

[/I]this is not my first Porsche or high performance car.

Ok. Fine. But then i guess certain things such as "knowing" what can/should be taken on by a layperson and, things that are definately best left to the experts should automatically apply? As i said, it is a PT we are talking about here and if you can afford to own a car like this then why fall over on the last hurdle by taking on a job such as this that could be managed by professionals at a price. Ok, I don't know how much you value you time at i guess. Now, i couldn't count the number of times i've read posts where members have specifically commented about the importance of having these B16 Bilstein suspension set ups installed by seasoned experts. It came across in your post that it was due to the disaster with your so called "expert" installing your lowering springs that motivated you to embark on your DIY effort with the B16"s.


And to say "its not as hard as you think" is missing the point totally. There are many members here on this board that have the capability to dismantle a 997tt (myself included), but how many would even bother with the installation and settting up of a B16 suspension knowing of the reported issues....I don't know....besides yourself, I suspect very few (if any). So on that note maybe you do deserve a bravery award of sorts.


If you don’t like my post and you think is not worthy the 6speed board I’ll remove it, especially for you.

Well thats your call but slawek i think thats being a tad childish. And I certainly wouldn't want you to do anything on my account least of all deleting your OP unless you feel embarrassed about the way it presents or reads. As i said earlier i didn't set out to light your candles up but there were a few glaring deficiencies in what you had written and, articulated. As a suggestion perhaps correct those areas for others that may be trying to make sense out of the exercise....but do it for the right reason....not just to please me. I've already made my points and swords have clashed "unfortunately". But if you are looking to post anything up without creating some form of discussion be it positive or negative to your liking then you are kidding yourself. Thats what these forums are about in may ways...getting to the bottom of things. Posting something up with the expectations of being inundated with only back slaps, thankyou's and praise is being ridiculous. There will often be questions and criticisms. And thats half the fun sometimes. Answering with a straight face, and the right facts.


PS. I note that spreadsheet has attracted some interest from members named.. It too needs a refresh of the facts by look of it.
 

Last edited by speed21; 01-19-2011 at 08:30 AM.
  #29  
Old 01-19-2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by slawek
You got PM
I'd like to know who it is as well.
 
  #30  
Old 01-19-2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by slawek
Yeas, my experience with lowering springs wasn’t the best .First the springs didn’t offer what I was looking for, second my installer even though highly recommended did lousy job to say the least.
“”Btw neg camber on a 997tt is never more on the rear than the front.””
Speed21 I don’t know where did you get that information from but this is the first for me
My alignment on the car is perfect (as to the height of my car and the offset of my wheels) and so are positions of Bilstein on each corner. The whole idea of presenting my experience with Bilstein was to point out the known lowering too much of the car and the links issue. Also just to set the height on four corners can take more them one day as each time you adjust one its effects the other sides..
“”.or am i missing something here??? “”
I think you missed the fact that my work was completed and I never wrote that I did the alignment and final checkup by myself.
Hmm, I installed techart sport springs my self, took my time and didnt have a problem, got the car aligned with a local porsche motorsports, to gt3 street specs, so far so good, rides better then stock and is lowered by 20 mm,a year later i added a gt2 rear swy bar only, now it rides even better on the turns, the under steer is almost gone, but one has to be carefull....
 

Last edited by cgng30; 01-19-2011 at 01:51 PM.


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