997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.

LW Flywheel, Is it worth it?

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Old 01-26-2011 | 05:34 PM
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LW Flywheel, Is it worth it?

I will be upgrading my stock clutch in the next few weeks, I am deciding whether or not to install a LW flywheel. Is is worth it? Performance/Thorttle Response? Thanks for any help.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 05:40 PM
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I have a great shop i can send you to if you need the installation done!
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 05:52 PM
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Definitely better throttle response but be ready for the noisy chatter that seems to accompany it,haven't heard of anyone avoiding this although it does get a little quieter when you hit the sport button & then again when you hit the eco button for some reason.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 06:03 PM
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Does it change the drivability of the car? I can live with the chatter. I am used to loud MX bikes.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
Does it change the drivability of the car? I can live with the chatter. I am used to loud MX bikes.
Not that I noticed ,when you rev the motor in neutral the rpms drop back down quicker than before, same thing if you like the sound of double clutching.
 

Last edited by twturbo; 01-26-2011 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011 | 06:29 PM
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+1 to LWFW but go with the Porsche GT3RS LWFW.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 09:35 PM
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The rpms drop much more quickly when engaging the clutch. You have to keep your foot into the throttle a little more from a stop to keep from stalling.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 09:37 PM
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would any of you guys say that the clutch feels heavier with a LWFW?
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 10:57 PM
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Clutch feel should be independent on the type of flywheel...it is more related to the hydraulics and the type of clutch. A LWFW will have a different engagement point, and a shorter range of engagement compared to a dual mass.

I found the Sachs 2/2.5 with an Aasco LWFW is the closest match to OEM feel, with the exception of a slightly elevated clutch engagement point, and slightly shorter engagement point.
 
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Old 01-26-2011 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
Does it change the drivability of the car? I can live with the chatter. I am used to loud MX bikes.
Since you live in Florida, I suspect you will use your AC quite frequently.

A LWFW on the 997 will rattle when the transmission is at temperature. The rattle will diminish when you turn on Sports mode (change in timing at idle.) When you turn on your AC, the rattle will return significantly.

A LWFW will also cause a significant rattle when you place significant load in an inappropriate gear (ie driving 30mph in 4th, then flooring it at 2500 RPM.) You will hear significant rattling under the car which is quite unbecoming of a street car.

As the temperature of the transmission continues to to normal temperatures, the rattling will become more prominent.

I would suggest you try before you buy.

Good news is that unlike the 996TT, where many needed a flash to increase idle RPM to prevent stalling, the 997TT handles a LWFW with no such need.

- bob
 
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Old 01-27-2011 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
Since you live in Florida, I suspect you will use your AC quite frequently.

A LWFW on the 997 will rattle when the transmission is at temperature. The rattle will diminish when you turn on Sports mode (change in timing at idle.) When you turn on your AC, the rattle will return significantly.

A LWFW will also cause a significant rattle when you place significant load in an inappropriate gear (ie driving 30mph in 4th, then flooring it at 2500 RPM.) You will hear significant rattling under the car which is quite unbecoming of a street car.

As the temperature of the transmission continues to to normal temperatures, the rattling will become more prominent.

I would suggest you try before you buy.

Good news is that unlike the 996TT, where many needed a flash to increase idle RPM to prevent stalling, the 997TT handles a LWFW with no such need.

- bob

You perfectly described the sounds my car makes and the exact situations under which the sounds become more pronounced.

I don't love the rattles but I'm used to it. In most situations, the exhaust drowns out the rattles anyway.
 
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Old 01-27-2011 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
Clutch feel should be independent on the type of flywheel...it is more related to the hydraulics and the type of clutch. A LWFW will have a different engagement point, and a shorter range of engagement compared to a dual mass.

I found the Sachs 2/2.5 with an Aasco LWFW is the closest match to OEM feel, with the exception of a slightly elevated clutch engagement point, and slightly shorter engagement point.
Thank you very much, appreciate the info
 
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Old 01-27-2011 | 09:18 PM
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Other tips I can offer for anyone looking to do the swap is to find a clutch that is sprung, rather than unsprung - it will help dampen the rattle at idle and at WOT. Also, if you do not like the friction point, you can pull the slave and cut the pin to adjust the engagement.
 

Last edited by bbywu; 01-27-2011 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
Other tips I can offer for anyone looking to do the swap is to find a clutch that is sprung, rather than unsprung - it will help dampen the rattle at idle and at WOT. Also, if you do not like the friction point, you can pull the slave and cut the pin to adjust the engagement.

how bad is this rattle? and does it cause any damage to the new flywheel/clutch setup? or is it just a bit noisy?
 
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Old 01-28-2011 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dinorocz
how bad is this rattle? and does it cause any damage to the new flywheel/clutch setup? or is it just a bit noisy?
I used to have a youtube video of my 997TT with the setup, unfortunately, when I closed my account, the video got zapped.

In summer temps, with the engine warmed up, and AC off - idle is normal. In summer temps, with the engine warmed up, and AC on - sounds like a few nuts and bolts in a coffee can, shake the can. 4th gear, WOT at 2500 RPM (heavy load), again nuts and bolts in a coffee can.

Definitely a try before you buy if the car is a street car. On the track, you probably don't care...the rev matching for shifting is incredibly smooth.

The rattle occurs when the transmission is no longer taut - a dual mass is heavy and vibrations from the engine are not transmitted beyond the dual mass into the transmission. In a LWFW, engine vibrations transmit beyond a very light flywheel and rattle the transmission. No damage, but irritating. Some folks have reported problems with the drive pulley due to vibrations, but I have only seen this in the GT3 (there is a factory bulletin warning that the warranty would be voided to owners who convert a GT3 to a GT3 RS LWFW.)

If you have access to a GT3 RS, the setup I described above is nearly identical in noise.

bob
 


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