Bob,
I think you are right with regard to the Y-Pipe designation for TT and GT2 (as in the same). That said, do you have an alternative recommendation and what order of magnitude of difference would there be? Also, I really am a noob when it comes to a lot of this stuff and I'm relying on Evoms to put together an integrated package that (i) won't blow up when I get back on the track and (ii) if it does, there is some accountability for what happens.

As a sidelight and without meaning to crap on anyone's parade, when the car was originally towed to the P-dealer, their initial diagnosis was to replace the upstream stuff (turbos, etc) but not pull and inspect the motor - they thought it was running fine. Although I've incurred significant additional expense at this point, had we not torn it apart, I might have been but only a few laps away from completely grenading it the next time out. I'm sure there's a lesson in there somewhere. (I will also say on the dealer's behalf that their charges for diagnosing the problems were very reasonable before I retrieved the car and the service manager suggested that since I had already started to modify the motor that I might want to consider aftermarket solutions rather than an oem fix. I appreciated his candor.) In any event, onward....

 

Um, probably from the pressure created by the oil that got sucked into the motor when the incident occurred. (Turbo blows, shreds intercooler, oil into the exhaust and motor, etc.) Oil and all liquids (as I have learned) are basically non-compressible unlike a gas and when too much gets into the wrong places something has to give. First line of (relative) defense in the motor is the rod bearing. If that goes and the pressure is not sufficiently relieved, then the connecting rod is next and gets bent as best as I understand it. I'm sure there are a lot of folks on this forum who can explain it better than I. Hope this helps, though. Best,

 

Thank you. Will consider it! Best,

 

Considering these VTGs are prone to fail- Is there a benefit of getting rid of them for some Tial GT28s/GT30 set ups?

 

On Thursday I picked up my car from Evolution Motorsports in Tempe, AZ where is was ultimately rebuilt and repaired. After the incident, the car and motor sat disassembled in a local mechanic's shop for seven months before I lost patience and had the whole mess shipped to Evoms late in February. Their initial reaction upon seeing the track-slime covered car and large Tupperware containers containing motor parts was something along the lines of "Oh, $hit...."

But they did a great job putting it back together and I mean that in the most sincere way possible. The car looks great and ran flawlessly during the 800 mile return trip home. Here's what we ended up doing.

• EVOMS VTG Turbochargers w/ 65mm Billet Compressor Wheels
• EVOMSit EVT775 ClubSport PUMP ECU Calibration – 7000 RPM Rev Limit
• EVOMS ClubSport 44.5mm Exhaust Headers
• EVOMS ClubSport Intercoolers (charge coolers) w/ Silicone Boost Hoses
• EVOMS High Flow Silicone Turbocharger Air Inlet Ducts
• EVOMS Billet Turbocharger Boost Recirculation Valves
• EVOMS 82mm Throttle Body / Plenum conversion
• EVOMS /SRE Stage 3 Sport Street Clutch System
• EVOMS HED Ignition Coils
• EVOMS Lightweight and Strengthened Underdrive Crank Pulley
• Installation hardware, gaskets, spark plugs, etc.

During the motor rebuild we;

Installed Carrillo Rods,
Installed Hellfire Gaskets,
Installed strengthened 10mm head bolts,
Installed new piston rings,
Re-honed the cylinders,
Replaced all bearings,
Installed a new intermediate shaft, tensioner blade, coolant pipe,
Replaced camshaft variators,

And, as long as the pros had their hands on it they;

Installed RSS lower control arms front and rear,
Aligned and corner balanced the car,
Installed an EVOMS short shifter kit w/ Rennline ****,
Installed new brake rotors and pads,
Installed Tarret toe links w/bumpsteer kit,
Installed a new battery and
Did a 35% tint.

Oh, and did I mention that the car is now really, really fast?? Almost scary fast......

Next weekend is a 3 day DE at Miller Motorsports Park to be held in conjunction with Intermountain Region's Club Race. It will be good to get back on the track and start getting things sorted out and familiarized.

Thanks again to Todd, Robert, Ian, John, Al and all the other guys who worked diligently in putting my car back together. All's well that end's well. Best,

PS There was a turbo with Kuwaiti plates in the shop.......wonder whose that is???

 

wow, so I guess there was no warranty in play. sounds like a rocket now, can't imagine the rebuild expense. cheers.

 

Nice to hear that your car is back.

bob

 

Thanks, Bob.

I neglected to thank all the guys (and 1 gal) on 6Speed who have been incredibly empathetic and supportive during this ordeal. So, let me correct that right now. Thanks Everyone!

It's kind of like having therapy via the internet........or something like that.

 

Enjoy that beast now! I have the same exact set up/ kit as you... What kind of fuel have you been using? The car is scary fast with some 100 octane in it.

 

Thanks for explaining that Gene. I also didn't know all of the acronyms. This has been a very educational thread. Wish we had more like these.

Jay

 

You're absolutely correct Steamboat. We know the costs of getting involved with these hobbies and we're willing to take the risk for the enjoyment at hand. Good luck with the repairs and post the exact damage and perhaps ask the tech how this could have been prevented.

Jay

 

But he is so lucky he was rich here, if he went lean the engine would have gone first.
This is a huge feather in the cap of the METZ engine I would say. He tried to kill it and it wouldnt die.

 

Best we can do out here is 91 at the pump but I'm not sure what that translates into with the altitude differential - maybe 93 at lower elevations.

We can get 100 at the track at $9.00+ a gallon and I'll start putting a few gallons in each tank to ward off detonation issues. I'm also using a different oil with better shear characteristics to fight heat related break down and will religiously change every 3000 miles and/or 6 DE days. It's a lot less expensive than what I've been through......

Hope you are running well. Did you do anything with the meth system? Best,

 

How this could have been prevented: That's a very good question without a definitive answer. But here are some thoughts gathered over the past (almost) year:

• If you flash an ECU, you need to run a more open exhaust and intake system. You should not do a flash without the other(s) especailly if you will track the car.
• Heat is a killer. If the temps are up, keep an eye on your gauges. In fact, keep both eyes on them and bring it in if they go above nominal operating temps.
• Don't try to get the last 500 miles out of an oil change. Fresh oil is good oil.
• Understand that if you run hard at red line for a 30 minute DE session, you are subjecting your car to all sorts of stresses that were hardly imagined while designing it. Which is not to say don't do it. It just means you need to pay more attention to what's going on.
• Heat, once again, will contribute to pre-detonation. Add some high octane gas particularly on hot days to mitigate against this.
• With a turbo, let it relax for a minute or two before shutting it down. Then, open the the rear deck lid to allow the heat to escape.
• From a purely preventive standpoint, have your turbos visually checked for impeller (bearing) wobble or signs of other malady. Mine had 18000 miles on them, many of them WOT track miles and perhaps it was just their time. Who knows?
• If temps are high and you're running on the track, think about short shifting a putting it on cruise. Nobody has ever won a DE and no one in a DE has ever contributed to someone else's blown motor fund (as far as I know).

Anyone else?? I could be missing a whole bunch here. Thanks,

 

Whoa...I am looking at your list of items and it seems that we share a lot of things in common with mine. I can't imagine what it would be to be without my car for almost a year...yikes!!!

How did they set up your ECU for switching from 91/93 octane to the race gas (100-104) maps? Did they use the sport button to toggle between them?

Here is my build. I am jealous of your upgraded motor parts though...

• WEVO Semi Solid Motor Mounts
• EVOMS/Sach Race Engineering Stage III Street Clutch System
• Werks Composites High Flow Intercoolers (charge-coolers)
• Werks Boost Hoses
• 70mm dumps / Fabspeed 70mm race exhaust
• Fabspeed 70mm 200 cell cats
• Evolution Motorsports EVT750 (T775+) full kit:
- EVOMS High Flow VTG Turbos w/65mm billet compressor wheels
- EVOMSit EVT 775 Clubsport ECU Pump Calibration @ 7,000rpm
- SPORT button switches 91/93 map to race fuel map)
- EVOMS 44.5mm exhaust headers
- EVOMS High Flow inlet ducts
- EVOMS Billet boost recirculation valves
- EVOMS/GT3 82mm Throttle Body / RSS Plenum conversion
- EVOMS HED Ignition Coil Packs
- EVOMS Lightweight and Strengthened billet under-drive pulley
• GMG Adjustable Sway Bars (Front and Rear)
• GMG Dog Bones
• GMG Solid Control Arm Bushings
• GMG Rear Toe Links
• GMG Tie Rods
• Moton Street/Race Adjustable Coilovers
• Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
• Pagid Race Brake pads (Black on front and Orange on rear)
• ATE Blue Brake Fluid
• GT3 Race Seats
• GT3RS alcantara Steering wheel
• GT3 alcantara Shifter and boot
• GMG RSR Rollbar/cage
• Sparco dual 6-point-harnesses
• Champion sport short-throw shifter
• EVOMS Billet pedals
• Porsche Chrono lap timer
• GMG Wheel Stud conversion
• Champion Motorsport black RS171 Forged Monolites (19 x 9 / 19 x 11.5)
• Toyo R888s (235/35/19 and 305/30/19)

How many EVT750+ do we have now on board?