IPD 82mm plenum + GT3 throttle body installed
#31
10-26-2018 | 10:05 AM
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Looks like I may be in need of something too...just about to put the car away for the winter and doing some onramp blasts and sure enough the coupler came off the GT3 TB.
I think the coupler is a different size on each end, does this t-bolt clamp mentioned above fit both ends or do I need a different size one for the larger or smaller end?
I think the coupler is a different size on each end, does this t-bolt clamp mentioned above fit both ends or do I need a different size one for the larger or smaller end?
Please only use: parts number: TS-HCT-M100 available at summit racing or Trident Marine part numbers TSS 56S30 EP and TSS 60S30 EP available at Amazon.
Last edited by turboslut; 11-21-2018 at 09:57 AM.
#32
10-26-2018 | 01:57 PM
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Thanks for the clamp tips guys.
I have the DO88 y-pipe and I recall my shop saying it was a bit of a bear to get in place. I was planning on clamping the end of the IPD coupler onto the GT3 throttle body first and then wiggling the y-pipe into the IPD coupler while simultaneously trying to get it to line up with the 2 intercooler hoses. Anyone have a better way of doing this that they would share?
I have the DO88 y-pipe and I recall my shop saying it was a bit of a bear to get in place. I was planning on clamping the end of the IPD coupler onto the GT3 throttle body first and then wiggling the y-pipe into the IPD coupler while simultaneously trying to get it to line up with the 2 intercooler hoses. Anyone have a better way of doing this that they would share?
#34
11-20-2018 | 07:27 PM
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Learned something tonight...
These clamps all need to be of the constant torque variety...ask me how I know.
Please only use: parts number: TS-HCT-M100 available at summit racing or Trident Marine part numbers TSS 56S30 EP and TSS 60S30 EP available at Amazon.
Honestly...IPD should supply these with purchase. It changes your car from "tuner" aka always has an issue to a greater degree of OEM reliability.
These clamps all need to be of the constant torque variety...ask me how I know.
Please only use: parts number: TS-HCT-M100 available at summit racing or Trident Marine part numbers TSS 56S30 EP and TSS 60S30 EP available at Amazon.
Honestly...IPD should supply these with purchase. It changes your car from "tuner" aka always has an issue to a greater degree of OEM reliability.
Last edited by turboslut; 11-21-2018 at 09:56 AM.
#37
11-22-2018 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg
So the ones linked to earlier are no good???
#38
11-23-2018 | 07:32 AM
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I had no problems (that I was aware of, lol) with even the worm gear clamps until the clamp loosened many months later. If the tbolts work and just need to be tightened periodically then it's no big deal. The constant torque ones do make sense so I may just get them anyway. Keep us updated, turboslut!
#39
11-23-2018 | 12:37 PM
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I think i owe this thread an update since i started all the tbolt thing ...
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
#40
11-27-2018 | 05:09 AM
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From: Fort Lauderdale
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Originally Posted by TT.BRN
I think i owe this thread an update since i started all the tbolt thing ...
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
#41
11-27-2018 | 08:11 AM
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 785
From: Fort Lauderdale
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I think i owe this thread an update since i started all the tbolt thing ...
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
The main problem is space, available clamping space on both the tb and ypipe only allows for the use of a 3/8" wide clamp, tbolts are beefy and usually 1/2" narrowest. Once you tighten the clamp it will work itself off ..
3 solutions to this problem:
1- Weld and extra lip and flare on tb/ypipe for tbolt use
2- use new oem clamps, you can find these in ecs/pelican .. Search for the 90-110mm 3/8" clamps .. Dont overtighten and discard if opened twice ... This is what I do now 1.5-1.8 bar gt30's no problem
3- The main issue here is the engine and ypipe moving separately under load/gear shift ... Easy solution that works is welding a bracket/tab from the underside of the ypipe to one of the alternator/compressor bolts, use a longer bolt and now your ypipe is fixed with the engine no more blown hoses
My short term fuel trims began to shoot up once again....so you are right. Failure!
I am at an end with this IPD setup....the last thing I wanted was a "tuner" car constantly needing wrenching and this part has been nothing but trouble.
What do you guys think of the following?
If the dilemna here is the need for a 3/8" wide band then I have found the following:
please refer to pages 81-82
https://www.oetiker.com/-/media/File...bEN102016.ashx
17800189 105S9 94 – 105 - TB side
17800190 110S9 99 – 110 - Y Pipe side
#42
11-27-2018 | 08:51 AM
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I wrestled with this issue for a long time and tried lots of things, different clamps etc! Evoms $700 solution leaks btw I threw mine in the trash. I went back to new oem clamps and cleaned everything off and aligned them perfectly and it works.
#43
11-27-2018 | 09:19 AM
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Do you mind snapping a pic or video so I can see placement of the clamps?
#44
11-27-2018 | 11:15 AM
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