Cel - p0021
#91
I just got the stupid code P0021 as well. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr. I did not notice any loss of power however and the car seemed to run fine. A few times a year I get a light and it is is always "too rich" on both banks.
This time it was completely different. I cleared the P0021 and it came back again. I got an oil change in hopes the problem was simply dirty oil...but, of course, not the case. I drove it for about 20 miles and the code came back.
Next will be the cam angle sensors...and hopefully that will address the issue...but if not, grrrrrrrrrrrr.
My car is a 2007 and I just hit 21,000 miles. I am out of warranty. I wonder if it is even worth it taking it to the dealer about this issue...
Thanks for the feedback.
This time it was completely different. I cleared the P0021 and it came back again. I got an oil change in hopes the problem was simply dirty oil...but, of course, not the case. I drove it for about 20 miles and the code came back.
Next will be the cam angle sensors...and hopefully that will address the issue...but if not, grrrrrrrrrrrr.
My car is a 2007 and I just hit 21,000 miles. I am out of warranty. I wonder if it is even worth it taking it to the dealer about this issue...
Thanks for the feedback.
This is a follow up on the problem I had about 2 months ago.
As stated in previous posts, the sensors and actuators were swapped from one side to the other. During this process, we cleaned both of them pretty good and re-installed. I am happy to inform that the problem has not come back. At least, not that silly code.
I have had to deal with another issue. I believe the tune from EVOMS is slightly rich and about once a month or so I would get a "running too rich" on both banks. I would check the code and reset it. During the last 30-45 days, I have been getting "random misfires" and it would manifest in the car running rough and missing on cylinders 1/2/3.
I have put about 2,000 miles in the last 2 months as I did the Crescent Event in Arkansas (what a hoot by the way). I went through a set of tires, brakes and rotors so you can get an idea of how fun it was.
The problem with with the "random misfires" was happening more often and we attributed to the spark plugs as those things have been there for about 10,000 miles now, and considering the car runs slightly rich, then it could make sense.
The plugs looked fouled so I am hoping that was the case. This past weekend, plugs, brakes, rotors and fluid were replaced and after some 30 miles, all seems to be ok now. Tires will be in tomorrow and hope the car is good for a while.
So in conclusion, if you are getting the cell P0021, you might want to clean your sensors first. I am not saying that is going to fix the problem, but, it could.
As stated in previous posts, the sensors and actuators were swapped from one side to the other. During this process, we cleaned both of them pretty good and re-installed. I am happy to inform that the problem has not come back. At least, not that silly code.
I have had to deal with another issue. I believe the tune from EVOMS is slightly rich and about once a month or so I would get a "running too rich" on both banks. I would check the code and reset it. During the last 30-45 days, I have been getting "random misfires" and it would manifest in the car running rough and missing on cylinders 1/2/3.
I have put about 2,000 miles in the last 2 months as I did the Crescent Event in Arkansas (what a hoot by the way). I went through a set of tires, brakes and rotors so you can get an idea of how fun it was.
The problem with with the "random misfires" was happening more often and we attributed to the spark plugs as those things have been there for about 10,000 miles now, and considering the car runs slightly rich, then it could make sense.
The plugs looked fouled so I am hoping that was the case. This past weekend, plugs, brakes, rotors and fluid were replaced and after some 30 miles, all seems to be ok now. Tires will be in tomorrow and hope the car is good for a while.
So in conclusion, if you are getting the cell P0021, you might want to clean your sensors first. I am not saying that is going to fix the problem, but, it could.
Good luck man, let me know what the shop quotes you, curious what an indy shop charges.
#92
Still have any ?
Agreed, this happened to me last month. Swapped the sensors and the issue hasn't come back. I still have to drive the car more and this winter isn't helping. So I don't know if it's going to return. Fact is if the sensors are swapped and cleaned, then it was just a dirty sensor. If the new sensor on the same bank that the issue came from rises from the dead... you're in for a big bill. Please god let it be a dirty sensor...
Good luck man, let me know what the shop quotes you, curious what an indy shop charges.
Agreed, this happened to me last month. Swapped the sensors and the issue hasn't come back. I still have to drive the car more and this winter isn't helping. So I don't know if it's going to return. Fact is if the sensors are swapped and cleaned, then it was just a dirty sensor. If the new sensor on the same bank that the issue came from rises from the dead... you're in for a big bill. Please god let it be a dirty sensor...
Good luck man, let me know what the shop quotes you, curious what an indy shop charges.
#94
I just swapped mine, and if you want to try it, you can get to them by following my Spark Plug DIY tutorial. I did it last weekend and maybe took an hour or so. You do not even need to lower the engine to get to them.
Good luck...
DC
Good luck...
DC
Last edited by therock88; 02-10-2015 at 03:03 PM.
#95
i read this threar and didt saw any pressure problems with anybody.
so what i have?i have cel p2100
how i detected it.one drag weekend after 1st qualification i wanted the second run
that i pressed together brake and accel pedal and my car didnt get any boost more that 0.2bar.before it was without problems 0.6-0.8bar.when iam back i have read fault codes and found that code((pity
before 4000rpm car runs looks like school bus acceleration and after that it runs normal .
also with turbo pressure when car just started and cold it gives me 0.6-0.8 bar.after car becomes hot(normal work temp) it will not give any pressure i want((
so what i want ?change oil, sensors (FROM SIDE TO SIDE) and actuators and may be wwill see some sleeves may be they are dirty.
who can explain what does it means taht pinning?What is that?anybody may be can give some pics before and after?thanks
so what i have?i have cel p2100
how i detected it.one drag weekend after 1st qualification i wanted the second run
that i pressed together brake and accel pedal and my car didnt get any boost more that 0.2bar.before it was without problems 0.6-0.8bar.when iam back i have read fault codes and found that code((pity
before 4000rpm car runs looks like school bus acceleration and after that it runs normal .
also with turbo pressure when car just started and cold it gives me 0.6-0.8 bar.after car becomes hot(normal work temp) it will not give any pressure i want((
so what i want ?change oil, sensors (FROM SIDE TO SIDE) and actuators and may be wwill see some sleeves may be they are dirty.
who can explain what does it means taht pinning?What is that?anybody may be can give some pics before and after?thanks
Last edited by artem-evo; 06-07-2015 at 03:07 PM. Reason: add info
#96
Have there been any updates to this issue? Is there a way now that we have Accessport logging to see if the issue is just a bad sensor or a spun cam? I am probably 125 miles in after a fresh oil change at the dealer and CEL on drive home....slow 15mph stop and go traffic when it popped.
Durametric codes pulled were P0021 and P1640
Durametric codes pulled were P0021 and P1640
#99
Yeah from what I keep reading....recent oil changes are a common precursor to the cel popping up.
I have the Cobb AP...going to log the following:
Target Camshaft Angle Bank 1-Target camshaft position for Bank 1
Target Camshaft Angle Bank 2-Target camshaft position for Bank 2
I am guessing this shows variance between where the computer wants timing to be and where the timing acutally is?
I reset the code...going to see if it pops back during drive to work in the morning.
I have the Cobb AP...going to log the following:
Target Camshaft Angle Bank 1-Target camshaft position for Bank 1
Target Camshaft Angle Bank 2-Target camshaft position for Bank 2
I am guessing this shows variance between where the computer wants timing to be and where the timing acutally is?
I reset the code...going to see if it pops back during drive to work in the morning.
#101
[QUOTE = rix; 3317963]我和2008年有同樣的事情,但它發生在大約4000英里。經銷商更換了凸輪和傳感器。這是關於一個10K 修復法案,正如其他人說,感謝上帝的保修......這輛車現在有大約8000英里,並沒有任何反復出現的 問題。
Variocam通過油壓調節可變凸輪正時,並且凸輪內的壓配套稍微旋轉 - 不足以完全切斷油流,但足以防止系統達到目標角度。代碼實際上是指所需凸輪角度的過衝(或下衝 )。
不要驚慌,這種油流不用於潤滑 - 它基本上被用作液壓油來調整凸輪角度。這不完全是災難性的,但我不會冒險,繼續駕駛汽車。我不確定997. 1型發動機的調整範圍和活塞間隙指標的閥門是什麼,但如果你放任何時間,可能會有活塞與閥門接觸的可能性。 這很容易需要一個新的頭部,幾個活塞,這些作品。
排除故障的步驟是更換第一排和第二排之間的凸輪角度傳感器,並查看問題是否存在 - 如果不是,則打開可疑探頭並檢查凸輪軸。希望它能為你解決,當我遇到這個問題時,我真的感到非常失望,但是 在修好後駕駛汽車的事情讓我不再在意。我原諒了它:D
編輯:這絕對不是由改裝引起的 - 有一個壓入式套筒,從工廠沒有正確安裝。這可能甚至不是保時捷的缺點 - 無論他們從哪個品牌購買這些攝像機都會被責備。2009年的奇怪的是沒有這個問題,所以在凸輪的當前修訂中 似乎已經解決了問題。如果一個經銷商試圖否認索賠因修改我把它帶到另一個經銷商,永不再做些生 意。[/ QUOTE]
Hello, I have a 997TT from the United States in 2007 in Taiwan.
The number of inspections is 46800km.
The current check engine light is on. Can't eliminate the error.
The fault code is p0021
Does your friends have the same situation?
How to solve this problem?
Can you share, thank you.
Variocam通過油壓調節可變凸輪正時,並且凸輪內的壓配套稍微旋轉 - 不足以完全切斷油流,但足以防止系統達到目標角度。代碼實際上是指所需凸輪角度的過衝(或下衝 )。
不要驚慌,這種油流不用於潤滑 - 它基本上被用作液壓油來調整凸輪角度。這不完全是災難性的,但我不會冒險,繼續駕駛汽車。我不確定997. 1型發動機的調整範圍和活塞間隙指標的閥門是什麼,但如果你放任何時間,可能會有活塞與閥門接觸的可能性。 這很容易需要一個新的頭部,幾個活塞,這些作品。
排除故障的步驟是更換第一排和第二排之間的凸輪角度傳感器,並查看問題是否存在 - 如果不是,則打開可疑探頭並檢查凸輪軸。希望它能為你解決,當我遇到這個問題時,我真的感到非常失望,但是 在修好後駕駛汽車的事情讓我不再在意。我原諒了它:D
編輯:這絕對不是由改裝引起的 - 有一個壓入式套筒,從工廠沒有正確安裝。這可能甚至不是保時捷的缺點 - 無論他們從哪個品牌購買這些攝像機都會被責備。2009年的奇怪的是沒有這個問題,所以在凸輪的當前修訂中 似乎已經解決了問題。如果一個經銷商試圖否認索賠因修改我把它帶到另一個經銷商,永不再做些生 意。[/ QUOTE]
Hello, I have a 997TT from the United States in 2007 in Taiwan.
The number of inspections is 46800km.
The current check engine light is on. Can't eliminate the error.
The fault code is p0021
Does your friends have the same situation?
How to solve this problem?
Can you share, thank you.
#102
Thank you, after reading all the articles, I am very worried that my 997TT is due to the rotation of the camshaft. I have already contacted the Porsche technicians in Taiwan. I hope my car can be successful again.
#103
997-105-303-73
You need 2 of these per engine.
https://www.oemexoticauto.com/oem-pa...ve-99710530373
#104
Thank you for your suggestion
Porsche technicians have already
aligned the solenoid valve and the
camshaft sensor before checking the camshaft.I get the same result. I will ask the technician to test the actuator again.
Porsche technicians have already
aligned the solenoid valve and the
camshaft sensor before checking the camshaft.I get the same result. I will ask the technician to test the actuator again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dhahlen
Automotive Parts & Accessories For Sale/Wanted
9
11-05-2015 12:55 PM