Swirl marks on my red turbo
#1
Swirl marks on my red turbo
I can see swirl marks in certain light conditions on my red TT . Is this normal and if not how is it best to remove them and what wax polish should I use.
#2
Many threads on here about this. How deep are they? If you cannot 'feel' them, then you should be able to get them out with less abuse than harsh compound products.
Moe with Glistening Perfection or Phil with Detailer's Domain should weigh in here for some advice. I've used 3M swirl remover with success, and hand glaze too, but a lot depends on the condition of the paint and how experienced you are. You may want a pro to take a look at it too.
I use ( and we sell ) Rejex for sealing the paint once it is in great condition, but first you will probably need to strip the wax, hit the swirls with a swirl remover or paint polish, and see how things look. If necessary, then you go a bit further with something more aggressive.
But on these vehicles, less is more - don't go too harsh if you don't need it.
Good luck..and post pics soon too!
Moe with Glistening Perfection or Phil with Detailer's Domain should weigh in here for some advice. I've used 3M swirl remover with success, and hand glaze too, but a lot depends on the condition of the paint and how experienced you are. You may want a pro to take a look at it too.
I use ( and we sell ) Rejex for sealing the paint once it is in great condition, but first you will probably need to strip the wax, hit the swirls with a swirl remover or paint polish, and see how things look. If necessary, then you go a bit further with something more aggressive.
But on these vehicles, less is more - don't go too harsh if you don't need it.
Good luck..and post pics soon too!
#3
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If the sun is hitting the paint, and all you're seeing are hundreds of little lines, swirls, and even light scratches, that's not normal. It's really a great question in how you've phrased it. Most assume this is how their paint should look, and it's not.
How you'll get rid of this problem is up to you. It's a function of time, expectation, and budget. On one side of the spectrum, you can simply use clay, a paint cleanser, and a wax and get the illusion of minimizing these imperfections. It's relatively inexpensive, doesn't take much time, and the result is noticeable.
On the other side of the spectrum, you can machine polish with multi-stages of polish using different pads, a nice machine polisher, and wax the paint. The results are short of breathtaking. It takes anywhere between 20-30 hours to do. And what you see is what you get. This can cost upwards of $600-700 to get everything you'll need.
Here's where I'd start...post a picture of the paint in bright sun or in your garage when it's dark with the flash. Post it up here. I can tell you with almost 100% accuracy what the process would be to get the maximum benefits from the paint.
We specialize in Porsche paint and 7/10 times, we end up doing machine polishing on most of the cars that come in for the first time. This is because the client is educated on what his paint should look like and sees a huge disconnect with what he has.
Here's are some good kits that we sell just to give you an idea:
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...its/Categories
Your best bet is to invest in a flex, get a few pads, and two polishes. Menzerna Super Intensive and Super Finish. IMHO, these are the best polishes for your car to get near-perfect results without the risk. Our most popular kit is the advanced polish kit. Clients love it, and for the price of a detail, you own all the tools to get professional results yourself.
Let me know what your questions are...i'm introducing a lot of info to you, so we can back up, and take it one step at a time.
Last edited by MoeMistry; 10-24-2011 at 07:48 AM.
#5
Meguiars 205 Polish and a black pad with a Porter Cable XP buffer. Go to the detailedimage.com and read up on Todd's posts. He is one of the best in the U.S.A. If that doesn't remove them, then you will have to you with 105 Compound, followed by the polish and then a wax / sealer.
#7
I would add - the best way to manage swirls is to prevent them in the first place. Do not dust. Do not wipe your car dry after washing - blow it dry using deionized water and a air blower.
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#10
Thanks for the input. I washed and blotted the car dry today and then applied Meguiars gold class carnauba plus, which stated will take out swirl marks. I applied and buffed by hand using 100% cotton cloth regularly turning cloth and changing them. Amazed at the amount of grime removed, and the results were excellent. Not only swirls disappeared but the color restored to a deep red, when before there was like an orange hue within the color. Very pleased with result.
#11
Great point!
#12
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Thanks for the input. I washed and blotted the car dry today and then applied Meguiars gold class carnauba plus, which stated will take out swirl marks. I applied and buffed by hand using 100% cotton cloth regularly turning cloth and changing them. Amazed at the amount of grime removed, and the results were excellent. Not only swirls disappeared but the color restored to a deep red, when before there was like an orange hue within the color. Very pleased with result.
What happened here is the oils in the wax actually masked the swirls and scratches by filling in the peaks and valleys of the paint. This gives you the illusion of proper polishing and waxing. If you wipe the paint down with alcohol, you'll see that all the swirls are still there. After a few washes, the wax will wear off and those pesky swirls will re-appear again.
If that's your goal, then it's perfectly fine. But I wanted to clarify for others to make sure everyone understands what was done. To truly and legitimately remove those imperfections, you'll need actual polishes like Menzerna or Meguiar's 105/205 as mentioned above. This should only be done with a da polisher like a porter cable or flex.
Hope this clarifies.
But what's important to remember is that you noticed something about the finish that bothered you and decided to do something about it. Kudos on that!
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