if your rotors are shaking, it means the screws that bolt the rotor on the hat are too tight.

when the wheel is off the car, you should have a little bit of play on the rotors.

there are two reasons your brakes are shaking, either incorrect bed in, or the screws are on too tight.

 

Lots of good info here:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...l-white-papers

And this one is specific to bedding in new brakes:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ake-kit-bed-in

 

no, rotors are moving when wheel is off, screws are not tight, they looks like open...

 

here are some pictures...

 

The stock brakes are also made by Brembo.

 

What you are experiencing is called judder. That is when the steering wheel shakes when you lightly touch the brake pedal. It is caused by an inconsistent transfer layer on the disc, and is a result of improper bedding. Bedding instructions are included in the instruction manual.

You even mention that you did 2000km without any hard braking, that is totally contrary to what is needed. If you did extended highway driving before fully bedding the disc, you are virtually guaranteed to develop judder. You mention the problem started after going to Germany. Now that the discs have this problem it will be difficult to eliminate.

Regarding no brakes after 3 hard stops, that does not make sense to me. This same brake system is run by many people on this forum including for race track use with no issues. When you say you have "no brakes" is the pedal going to the floor or is the pedal staying firm with no braking power?

 

I recall when breaking in my ZR1 bedding or burnishing was not neccesary but highly recommended if the car was to be driven lightly ALWAYS. However, if there is ANY possibility of several hard stops or racing burnishing is 100% neccesary.

I am very sorry to hear of the problems Karol. Brembo's are great brakes, probably the best. I hope you can get all straightened out.

It doesnt hurt to take the brakes off and send them to Brembo for analysis.

 

MSV

Can't he have discs turned? to remove the transfer layer and retry bedding.
Felt the OEM were overwhelmed after my car was modded in my sig, upgraded to Brembo GT's and they work flawlessly on mine.

 

Turning discs is not something that is ever recommended. And in the case of 2-piece floating assemblies like these, it is in no way practical.

Your typical brake lathe removes too much material and they cannot hope to maintain the flatness, parallelism, runout, and DTV tolerances.

 

In some cases, there has been some success in using a "cleaner" brake pad that is extremely aggressive (Hawk Blue) for a few braking actions, and then putting the regular pads back in and properly bedding the system.

 

no after 3 hard braking peddal is at normal position but nothing is happening, no brakes at all !!!!

will post pictures of discs after 3 brakes from 300 km/h to 200km/h it looks like there is some material burned on the discs.


again, friend from Germany had same issues, dealer replaced discs, after that they did test, and same story, finally dealer paid money back.
he also said that it's very popular problem with this brakes.
What Emre did wrong on two cars he mentioned about?

this is for the first time problem like this in my life with brakes, on the race track I would be dead for sure....

Brembo people I need solution of this issue !!!!!!!
If anyone would like to test it on my car you are very welcome anytime !!!

 

I would recommend going through the proper channels for this for the support you need. Contact the shop that you obtained these from in order to address your issues.

Unfortunately, I cannot speculate on what problems have been experienced by others, as there have been no details provided. I can say that these brakes are an improvement over the OEM brakes, and if installed and bedded properly provide performance in excess of the OEM system, as proven by many others on this forum.

From your description, I can guarantee you that the judder issue (steering wheel shaking under light braking) has been caused by the complete absence of a bedding procedure, followed by an extended highway drive.

Now, with an improperly bedded system, you are doing extreme braking actions from 300 to 200 km/h. This is not going to solve your problem, but is making things worse.

In reference to your brake fade, I am assuming that these are likely the first times your brakes have experienced elevated temperatures. The pads, like the discs require break-in. If the pads in use are the ones that are included as standard with a GT kit, after some heat cycles they maintain their performance without fade. Due to the lack of a bedding procedure, and only light driving for their life, they have not yet experienced these heat cycles.

 

one more thing i did some track days on stock 350 discs and of course after 3 laps brakes effecivity was much lower (then I visited gas station for compressor which I used to clean holes on the discs and was fine for few laps) but I never had problem with steering wheel shacking.

 

the steering wheel shaking is the easiest thing to resolve.

you need to re-bleed the system. all four corners, and from the resivour in the front.

 

just talked with german friend, he tested hard new disc after replacement immediately and same story....for me it looks like material failure.