Very Nice car , I like the color combo !!!

 

Nice choice. Congratulations. Enjoy.

 

Congrats on your Turbo. I usually take her easy and city (light to light) drive it for the first 1000 miles. Going up below 4K rpm and randomly go over a tad after complete warm up and varing the throttle and try not hold at constant throttle position. I usually drive it much harder and up to redline after 1k at short burst. When the engine get looser you'll get faster. From my experience weak engine comes from weak break-ins but you dont' want to break it while breaking it in .

I usualy change the oil 1k miles after breakin. I don't feel comfortable with an oil filter with metal in it or if the oil looks shiney but with the porsche you can't really check it so I get mine done at 1k miles anyways. After that, first redline between 1-2K miles or maybe sooner since the tolerence on the porsche engines ares pretty good.

I do similar methods for my RC cars. And I did broke a connecting rod during break on the toy car because i was too eagar on the throttle so I can assume breaking it in hard has pretty great risks.

 

I heard from a tech at Porsche (a "Brand Ambassador" -- not sure of Porsche's training nomenclature) that at least with the newer 3.8L engine, there should be no practical RPM or boost limits applied. In his opinion, running the engine pretty hard during break-in is actually preferable. He explains the specific language in the owner's manual as being legally motivated to avoid suits about broken engines if you are really aggressive (e.g. high-speed runs with sustained full boost), rather than a desire to optimize the performance of the broken-in engine.

It's a bit frustrating that there's still not a really clear answer in this subject, in general--it seems for years the "right" way to break in an engine has been debated. Still, I'd be glad to hear anyone's opinion

 

Car Nerd gone wild. Enjoy it. Excellent choice.

There is another unwritten rule about break in: Occasionally, you can break a rule withouth breaking the car.

 

I see you have the PDK. This seven speed will drop the RPM to 1000 in the city and I think this is to slow for good break in. It results in high cylinder pressure and and heat which stress the oil. I prefered to shift enough to stay above 2000RPM during the first 1000 miles, and below 4000.
I presently have 16,000 miles on my 2012 Turbo S and no oil burn/loss during the first 10,000 miles and to date.

I read many therories but it could simply be the tolerances of the assembly that gives you the best ring seal. Sustained high stress adds wear but cold starts are probably worse. Avoid short runs.

 

Be sure to join one of the local drives! Lots of engineers (myself included) and other enthusiasts attend. Beautiful car!

 

Thanks for the input--I didn't think of this the first day I had the car, but since then have been driving in manual mode only to allow for more RPM variance and clear avoidance of lugging, as well as more effectively operate the engine under vacuum while decelerating.

The PDK is incredibly well executed; definitely better than BMW's SMG on the current generation M3. Probably the only thing I don't like is that the car simulates the "creep" that is normal with automatic transmissions when the brake is released by lightly engaging and slipping the clutch; this is especially annoying when coming to a stop, since some vibrations from the clutch action can usually be felt. I'd rather it just disengage below a certain speed + throttle application and allow a smooth coast. I look forward to experiencing the faster shift speeds of the PDK in Sport and Sport Plus modes, but will wait longer since the car just recently turned 200 miles.

 

The technology on this car is definitely a nerd's dream, especially the variable geometry turbos, direct injection, and torque vectoring. I'm sure many of you have already seen this, but the stats in this Car & Driver comparison of the Turbo S to other, more expensive supercars are truly impressive:

http://archive.caranddriver.com/var/...1165617301.pdf

 

Definitely interested. I'm actually in Southern California right now (moved south to be closer to family, working remotely for my current company), but will have to relocate back to Silicon Valley for Facebook. By late February though, I'd like to start getting involved in the Porsche community.

 

Do Porsche still offer regular manual transmissions? I hope so...

 

Congrats on your new Turbo! Drive the **** out of it and enjoy!

 

Great stuff!

 

Very cool. I'll be following a similar protocol, but in particular can't wait to get back up to Northern California to have more readily available access to the Santa Cruz mountain range. I used to live along Skyline (1 mile north of Page Mill), and made the round-trip on Page Mill about 250 times. Fun video of the ascent in the supercharged BMW (click on the actual link to skip to the start of the more exciting parts of the road, 3:20):
The car will be moved via covered transport so I don't have to worry about the long highway stretch spoiling the chance for optimal break-in.

A final related question: Porsche is adamant that the oil doesn't need to be changed before 10,000 miles, even on the first fill. BMW prescribes an oil change at 1,200 miles for ///M cars. I assume it is advisable to change it around that interval, and Porsche doesn't recommend it only to reduce buyers' impressions of the car being high-maintenence.

 

Yes, even on the Turbo--but not the Turbo S. Interestingly, the dealership told me that they started out building mostly Turbos and a few Turbo S's, but by the end of the production run, nearly every car was a Turbo S. This reflected customer demand. Indeed, the features that are options on the Turbo are much cheaper if purchased in the form of the Turbo S rather than adding them individually, so it's an obvious choice for someone interested in adding more than one performance option to a base model Turbo.

I have been a manual purist for a while (all of my previous cars were manuals), but frankly, the PDK is so awesome that I haven't missed the third pedal yet. This is no ordinary automatic .

[EDIT: It MIGHT be possible to buy a Turbo S with a manual if specifically requested, but the PDK is a more expensive option that is included, so you would effectively be "downgrading" without cost savings. I suspect few people choose to do this.]