From what I have read, the stock alignment specs on a 997.1 are less than ideal.

I don't want a full race track alignment as most of my driving is done on the street...aggressively and seeking for every twist on the road.

So I want something in between a race alignment and street alignment...

Based on some suggestions, this is what I had narrowed down to:

FRONT CAMBER: -2.5
REAR CAMBER: -1.5

TOE FRONT: 0
TOE REAR: somewhere in between 0.1 - 0.15 toe in on each side

Any suggestions? I am running R888s by the way...

Thanks!

 

I had my alignment done today. Mechanic said porsche recommends more than -1.5. So when people say -1.5 are they talking -1.5 more than stock camber or literally -1.5 which is more straight than stock? I could only go -1.2 in the front due to lowering with stocks struts and went -3 on back, which is around -1 more than stock according to shop. Is that too much for the rear? I do plan on tracking it.

 

I have a 996, but the following mods were instrumental in dialing out understeer and significantly improving handling IMO.

1. Better Tires - The best tires I've personally driven on so far are Hankook RS2 / Hankook RS3s (better than than Michelins and Continentals). I'm sure 888s are up there. When it comes to tires you can always go more aggressive but It generally comes down to a balance between tread life and wear. Also running lower tire pressures has a HUGE effect on grip but depending on how low you go and how you heat up the tires running pressures that are too low can ruin your tires by overheating the sidewalls.

2. Suspension - I run PSS9s. Not only does this setup firm up handling, it has really improved the ride AND handling. It's more compliant for the first bit of travel and stiffer when you lean on it. Best of both worlds unless you're track junkie and want cement truck ride

3. Rear Sway Bar - I run an H&R. dials out a lot of understeer

4. More aggressive front camber - The front tires on a 911 seem to get almost no wear, so this is a place you can really splurge and it won't cost you much at all. The more camber, the "dartier" the car gets. It tends to wander more with road groves and require a bit more concentration. After a day or two of driving it, you will forget that it's any different and your mid will adjust. The car will always turn better though

5. Rear camber - This is where miles will really cost you because 911s really wear the rear tires hard due to the weight bias and all the torque going through the rear tires. Running more camber than stock will wear the tires unevenly. You just need to decide whether it's worth $500+ rear tires to get this final bit of performance. Comes down to budget and how hard core you are really.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ack-ready.html

Simply read above post and you will find all answers .

 

Thanks! I found that post a few days ago and halfway through the second page I got lost in a lot of technicalities... I realized a lot of the things posted exceeded my understanding of how alignments worked. It seemed a lot o the things shared were more inclined towards the track...
Thanks though--I might have to do a little further research.

 

Right now, is your suspension factory stock or aftermarket ?

 

Moton and R888, right? Congratulations. :-) I use my car in a similar fashion - no track, aggressive on canyon roads, daily driver. Pardon me if you've tried already, but I would suggest to try -1 front, and -1.6 rear and see what you like or don't like about it, and what happens with your tire wear. This is same as street setting of GT3 and what I have in my car.
Check your tires on this setting, if the wear is even, than you *probably* don't need more. If you wear outside of tires quite a bit more, than you are driving way too fast for the streets and need to bring that monster to the track. Just kidding.

While the "right" number depends on the particular setup for each car and the driver, -2.5 and -1.5 are quite aggressive for street driving. In addition, is there some reason why so much more front camber was suggested for front relative to rear? (Real question, not being sarcastic at all. In general my understanding is keep the difference about -.5 between front and rear - anyone feels free to correct as needed.) I am sure you already know increasing camber hurts straight-line traction and acceleration, among other things, so there is a price to pay.

Regarding toe, neg. rear toe, same as factory setting is fine; my tuner does run neutral or very very slight positive front toe (with plenty of warning for me to be cautious fist few weeks). He does this to help with the turn-in response of our Turbo, which does have somewhat lazy steering response compared to GT3. Good luck and hope this helps.

 

With only - 1.2 in front and -3.0 in the rear you will have too much understeer. With a turbo you need to get the offset strut camber plates and bring in the tops of the strut. This way you keep proper spacing for the front axles. You should be able to get -2.2 to -2.5 in the front. You want to try and keep the rear about .5 less then the front. I.e - 2.5 front and -2.0 rear.

Hope this helps.

 

Very good point. Winnilaker, another negative about having such large difference between front and rear camber is that, I think, your tire wear difference is going to be quite significant.

Over time, I've run across many samplings of people's alignment settings on their 911's. Based on this experience: I rarely if ever see rear camber as large as 3, and in general, it appears most people keep the cambers within .5, from front to rear. As Doc mentioned, the cambers will affect understeer/oversteer behavior; if you have to use so much camber differential to correct this, then the implication is, perhaps, an imbalance in the suspension setup somewhere else that needs correction. Such as the sway bar, for example.

 

Thanks, had car realigned yesterday, -1.2 upfront, max it could go and -1.7 out back. Will look into Canberra plates later.

 

Meant camber plates

 

It is definitely tweaked...

• GMG Adjustable Sway Bars (Front and Rear)
• GMG Dog Bones
• GMG Solid Control Arm Bushings
• GMG Rear Toe Links
• GMG Tie Rods
• Moton Street/Race Adjustable Coilovers
• GT3 Race Seats
• GT3RS alcantara Steering wheel
• GT3 alcantara Shifter and boot
• GMG RSR Rollbar/cage
• Sparco dual 6-point-harnesses
• Champion sport short-throw shifter
• GMG Wheel Stud conversion
• Champion Motorsport black RS171 Forged Monolites (19 x 9 / 19 x 11.5)
• Toyo R888s (235/35/19 and 305/30/19) with about 80% tread left

The car has a tendency to push...so by squeezing another 0.5 of negative camber I am hoping to alleviate that some more...

 

It was my understanding that camber is not the problem in wearing tires - toe normally is...I have ran a very aggressive negative camber setting on many cars and really did not have that much issue with over-wear...but as soon as I started messing with toe, then it was game over for the tires...

 

I've read in official Porsche 997 Turbo document that min front camber is 1°40' +/- 15'

 

That's tweaked! Good thread. I've got GMG springs and sways on the way and hope to learn more about settings so keep the suggestions coming.