Well it is BBS, the real thing and the best, what's not to like?
Actually the negatives are that price is quite stiff, and as mentioned, these very very light wheels IMHO *may* be more prone to problems if you hit bumps and potholes accidentally at high speed.
Other than that, if you like the style, this BBS IMHO is indeed number one on the list as far the lightest and best available.

What I am curious about is the difference between R1 and F1 - they look the same but seem different in the description. Have you asked wheel dealer about difference between these 2?

R1-D
http://www.bbs-usa.com/road-wheels-d...m?CLID=87&WF=6
RI-D GT-R - One Piece Forged Aluminum Wheels. Produced in Japan by Washi Beam using a special 7000 series alloy that helps make this wheel as light and strong as possible. Covered by U.S. Pat. D606,921 and European OHIM Reg. No. 000 803 952

F1
http://www.bbs-usa.com/road-wheels-d...m?CLID=55&WF=6
FI - BMW - One Piece Forged Aluminum Wheels designed and produced in the Motorsports department. The ultimate wheels for performance minded BMW owners. Covered by U.S. Pat. D606,921 and European OHIM Reg. No. 000 803 952

 

I am still running GMG springs with stock PASM at the moment. It is better than stock, but is still not quiet right.

I have had KW and H&R 3 way adjustables on previous cars, so I feel your pain.

I can't seem to make a decision on coilovers for this car. At the moment I am leaning towards KW Clubsports ($5K though). I know of a turbo S running them, and despite the Clubsport branding, he says that it has actually improved the ride quality. More solid, no jarring or harshness, and no bouncing. The guys at Sydney Performance did the setup.

As Can said, it is important to leave them as they are designed, as the rebound and dampening control is really just fine tuning against the spring rates. I would go back to OEM spring rates and run fairly middle of the road
settings.

 

curious, what is not quite right about the gmg setup? ride quality? steering feel? or ultimate handling?

are you also running gmg sways? any other suspension parts?

what improvements do you hope to get from coilovers?

 

I feel that the progressive rate springs with PASM in normal mode, skips a bit over small bumps (particularly under heavy breaking). You just don't feel a ideal level of sureness.

It is much nicer in sport mode, but is just way too stiff for the street (It rides great on the track).

I am hoping that a coilover package is going to give a better balance for street and track. But which one?

 

So the springs are too stiff and jumpy?

 

It is hard to say. I am not really a fan of progressive rate springs (it is the only way in which you can stiffen and lower using existing shocks), they can be bouncy due to the varying rebound. But I think the main problem is the soft dampening and rebound control of PASM in normal mode (this is a problem even with OEM springs). As I said it is a match made in heaven in sport mode (but too hard).

This is part of the reason I have not dived in with the Bilstein Damptronic. I realise that there is very little difference between normal and sport, but that makes me feel like it does not add much value. Hence, looking at alternatives.

I believe that there is a sweet spot for a car that is driven 60/40 street/track. I just need to find it.

Fully adjustable can be a nightmare to get right, but potentially flexible enough to find that sweet spot. On the other hand, maybe a factory sorted unit like H&R could work. But I have not heard any feedback on the H&R coilovers.

 

Oh your in Australia too?
We ll I have had some great advances in the last week, I am running 1 click off full hard bump with liberal rebound and i have lost the bouncing and am near my target suspension of comfort and incredible agility and performance.
Im running +6 deg toe out on front (i may reduce this to +2 deg) with 1.3deg camber and im doing highway roundabouts (the ones either side of the bridges over the new freeways at 60kpm! multiple rotations, amazing.
Plus... completely twitchy responsive steering from 60kph onwards and the higher the speed the better reaction twitch and grip.
Love it.
The comfort factor has amazed my wife (best critic)

Secret was to go pretty much centre detent on front rebound and soft rebound rear. I would now definitely suggest them for anyone really wanting to tweak.
Happy for you to come check it out whenever your in Melbourne.

regards Scanners.
Can, this comment came back from BBS.

"The wheel is named diamond black, however this finish is more like a graphite colour.
BBS also offer this wheel in Silver, however this colour is not available at the moment, I can chase up delivery date on this if you wish?

Forged wheels do not bend easily, they are much stronger than cast wheels."

 

Thanks. FWIW, most if not all the popular Porsche wheels from reputable vendors on the market are forged. My point was only that among these forged aluminum wheels, the reason one wheel is lighter than another is that the material is less/thinner (that's why it's lighter). In that sense, all else being equalled, a very light wheel is likely not to be as strong as a heavy wheel and IMHO is more prone to bending. (As always, any wheel expert please correct me as needed.)

That said, as mentioned, BBS is the real thing and I do consider these to be either among, or indeed, the lightest and the very best. And despite of the light weight, there is no history of damage (but still I would be careful of potholes and bumps). If you could afford it, congrats!

PS Have you found out difference between R1 and F1? I kinda like F1 - "produced in motorsports division of BBS."

 

answer from BBS

The visual difference between the RI-D and FI is very little. The FI wheel is manufactured from forged a6000 aluminium, The RI-D is manufactured from a7000 aluminium. Please see attached for a pdf with further information about the two types. As you can see the RI-D (A7000 Aluminium) is much lighter.

 

Thank you; fascinating info. I stand corrected and learned something new and interesting today: The weight loss of R1-D is actually not from using less material, but from using a different aluminum alloy.

It would seem from the link below that R1-D using A7000 is indeed both lighter *and* stronger!! If you do end up with R1-D, it would be interesting to weigh them before install and post the weights here. I suspect it's going to steal the title of lightest and most desireable wheel for our Porsche.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Aluminium alloy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The International Alloy Designation System is the most widely accepted naming scheme for wrought alloys. Each alloy is given a four-digit number, where the first digit indicates the major alloying elements.

• 1000 series are essentially pure aluminium with a minimum 99% aluminium content by weight and can be....
• 2000 series are alloyed with copper, can be ...and are increasingly replaced by 7000 series in new designs.
• 3000 series are alloyed with manganese, and can be ...
• 4000 series are alloyed with silicon. They are also known as ....
• 5000 series are alloyed with magnesium.
• 6000 series are alloyed with magnesium and silicon, are easy to machine, and can be precipitation hardened, but not to the high strengths that 2000 and 7000 can reach.
• 7000 series are alloyed with zinc, and can be precipitation hardened to the highest strengths of any aluminium alloy.
• 8000 series is a category mainly used for lithium alloys.

 

Speaking from my personal experience, I think your bobbing comes from the huge differentiation in compression and rebound.

You also have your settings on pretty firm, so that's another reason you may be feeling bobbing since your suspension really doesn't absorb bumps and instead ploughs through the bumps on your super hard compression setting.

 

yes you have a point, but the reaction time of the suspension is invigorating and instant as well as extremely comfortable, no jarring whatsoever, KW are talking about increasing my rear spring back to 130nm FROM 110NM, i think this may reduce the resonance at these low speeds and allow me to reduce my bump and as you say get the control back with the dampers and springs,
Its funny i dont feel any bobbing in the front and thats set to full hard bump and centre rebound. I figure its not a resonance from the weight of the motor and perhaps the heavier spring iwll reduce this resonance, i hope so other than that I cant fault this car, Im running Cans camber and even more than Cams toe out. Yes you need to hold onto that wheel on roads that have ruts but the fun you have all the rest of the time is great.
thanks for your response.