Both. With the Sachs setup, the length of the friction point (I call it engagement) is very much like stock. Pedal is no heavier, very easy to modulate. With the ERP setup the pedal is slightly "heavier", and it typically engages much higher in the pedal. So much so that we usually make a custom pedal-stop to reduce the amount of unnecessary pedal travel.

 

Elite - You might want to consider getting independent confirmation that your clutch does in fact need replacement. The guys at 3Zero3 will be happy to help you. No use replacing it prematurely unless, of course, you just want to replace it!

Now would be a really good time to develop a vision of what you ultimately want to do with your car. I don't recall if the motor needs to be completely dropped to get at the clutch or just slightly dropped but your car and your wallet will be better off if you minimize the number of times that has to occur. In other words, "As long as we're in here, what else do you want to do?"

All the clutch replacement advice above seems reasonable. Personally, I have an Evoms Stage 3 Dual Mass Super Sport setup which utilizes the oem flywheel. You don't have to be a magician to drive it around town and I've been beating on it for the past 15,000 miles with no ill effects.

http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Vie...56C05044454%7D

Good luck! We're having fun now!!

 

Thanks Steamboat, I’m currently in contact with 3zero3 aboutthe problem. I’m with you on the “replacinga clutch that is currently working.” Just hate the thought of having a clutch failure roadside. If I have to replace it, I'll also take a look at the setup that you have.

 

Are you saying this in relation to the carbon clutch comb or with the 2.5 as well? Obviously a light flywheel makes things a little touchier as I've had them in most of my previous cars.

I have no experience with one in a 997TT but I find it hard to believe it's that undrivable unless you go ridiculously light.

 

Keep in mind this is just my opinion from having driven so many of them...

I have always found the Sachs setup to feel the best with the OEM flywheel. After all, at this stage you're not really fishing for those few extra HP from a lightweight flywheel, so I would definitely opt for drivability.

On the ERP setup the lightweight flywheel makes it a bit chattery during engagement, which makes it tricky. And with the revs dropping so quickly, you need good tuning to avoid stalling issues. However, I think with the steel flywheel (which is still lighter then OEM by far)...this clutch is AMAZING.

 

Main thing I missed coming to my Turbo was the free reving of my old setup (due to the lightweight flywheel). Rev matching and driveability was much improved in my mind.

Probably depends a lot on the person like you said. I tend to like my cars a little more "hardcore" if you will.

 

Then you would LOVE the ERP clutch, even with the not-too-light lightweight flywheel. It will give you that feeling back 100%.

 

Hi Tom,

Do you have a link for the ERP setup? I don't see it on your website?

Thanks,

 

Elite1 I did the same upgrade to the EVOMs 580 and have awe exhaust. I had @16k miles on my car when I did this and almost immediately the clutch slipped on acceleration. I took it to my Indy and upgraded to Sachs stage 2. Stock clutch had +60% left and I hadn't done any damage to the flywheel. The new set up is seamless to the stock, no noise or feel issues...just love it.

 

Maverick, that's great feedback! When I first floored the car in 2nd after the upgrade I noticed the slip. I'm currently not driving the car. I think my heavy foot will end up damaging the flywheel.

 

The clutch is something that is definitely a trade off. The more aggressive the clutch is, the less fun it is to drive. Unless you plan to build the engine anything more than a Sachs "2.5" clutch is overkill and will quickly take your enthusiasm for driving the car away. It's no fun to stall in traffic, have jerky starts, and for your car to make all manners of strange noises unless it absolutely has to.

 

I don't think it's been added to the site yet...

Here's a couple pictures...

 

Geez, talk about a "Simple Design" Do you think that this setup will take to fun out of the 6 speed for drivability when comparing it to the Sachs 2.5?

 

If you do the GT2 master/slave cylinder conversion then no...it will not.

But...like I said earlier, if you don't plan to go over 600whp...then the Sachs is the better choice, purely from a drivability standpoint.

 

We are using a Sachs 2.5 w/LWFW. It drives like stock, feels like stock and the LWFW chatter is the only noticeable difference.