I have a "little" problem. I had a suspicion my wheels may be spinning within my wheels and have now confirmed. I have read a few articles on the net, one particularly interesting related to the 2014 Camaro and it's LS7 engine. I have found the following solutions........

1. Running screw through wheel into tire - Ouch! No way!
2. GM engineers found the problem in the 2014 Camaro Z28, used media blast to abrade the interior of the wheel.
3. Apply antiskid paint to inside of wheel.
4. Minimize tire lube (I think it dries after a few days so shouldnt matter).
5. Apply hairspray to inside of wheel.

Rather than doing something permanent I will first try 3M #510 antiskid conformable tape applied to catch the bottom edge of the tire bead but not to interfere with the seal, will place on both sides.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

I dont think it matters however I run Nitto 555R 18" tires on 1 piece Forgelines.

 

take some sand paper and make the inside of the rim a little abrasive. its probably too smooth.

thats a pretty awesome problem to have btw.

 

I may go the sandpaper route but want something reversible at this point. IF I were to roughen I wouldnt be able to place the antiskid tape there in the future. I am fairly certain the tape will work and if it doesnt I just peel it off.

Thanks!

 

2 and 3.

 

Are they moving on the track? If so, not that big a deal. i have my tires marked at the valve stem on my race car and they move a pretty good bit. if they're moving just from street driving that would be much more interesting.

 

I would ask:

1) How much are they moving?
2) When are they moving (street/track)?
3) Are you airing the tires way down?

I cant believe they are moving on the street, there just isnt enough traction on the road and on the track, no big deal unless they are rotating significantly. On an old drag car I had, the tire would spin a little on the rim and it didnt effect anything.

 

My tires move on my rims also. I have found several solutions to minimize it and in most cases eliminate it.

1. Rough up the wheel bead with 40 grit paper
2. Rough up the tire bead with 40 grit paper
3. Clean tire bead with Acetone
4. Dry mount the tire on rim or use alcohol in a spray bottle (DO NOT use tire lube!!)

If the tire is still moving on the wheel, once tire is mounted on wheel, pop the bead and spray 3M contact adhesive along both the inside and outside bead. Let air dry for a minute to become tacky and then seat the bead with air. This is what I use...

 

I agree with ALL the above. I still want to try the tape as it is reversable. If it works then I will seek a more permanent solution such as you have described. I will remove all tire lube with Acetone and then apply the tape. I will then fully heat the tire and do a launch. If it is going to slip it should during launch.

FYI: The tire is inflated properly to 44PSI hot and it IS spinning on the street.

 

I have had this issue on several occasions with Hoosiers. The best fix is to abrade the inner lip of the wheel. Media blasting works best. I have had some apply flat spray paint to the inside edge of the wheel. It does not seem like much to do, but that combined with a reduction in the amount of tire lube used (and giving it time to properly dry) will give you an increase in bead grip. If the paint does not do it, sanding the inner bead should.

 

Thanks Damon - I think I may go your route. I also found that some lubes actually become sticky when dry, I need to identify the exact product and give it to my tire shop along with abrading the wheel as you have described.

 

Hoosiers are particularly bad about slipping around, both R6's and full slicks. I had C10's and took a small steel chisel and created shards of raised metal both for acceleration and braking. It helped a bit but didn't completely solve the problem. It might work for you if your braking system isn't big aftermarket as well as your turbos. Always dry mount.

 

For anyone interested my tire shop has identified a tire lube which is used to eliminate any spinning issues, it is designed for this exact problem. The lube apparently dries and coverts to replicate a glue. I will be remounting the tires this week and post the exact mfg and PN for those whom have interest. I will mechanically remove the coating at points/areas along the wheel which may contribute to this problem so the tire interfaces with bare metal.

Thanks for the recommendations and opinions.

 

I wouldn't fully remove the coating as that could lead to the wheel oxidizing/rusting.

 

The problem is resolved! I did note when removing the tire how slippery the wheel edge where the bead would sit, no matter it slipped. I contacted my tire shop as I had found some evidence compounds existed that dried as as adhesive. They in turn called their supplier and identified a liquid applied via 1" paint brush at the tire bead and the wheel. It is normally used on tractors as you can only imagine those treads really dig in and would have a propensity to slip. The product is Remax PN 593-0072. I did end up lightly sanding the wheel at the bead location and also removed all remaining tire lube from the wheels and tires with acetone. I tested it about 1.5 hrs afterwards and all is good.

 

Remax PN 593-0072?? No such product exists. You can google it or variations of it and nothing comes up. The only thing close is stuff made by a company called Rema Tip Top. They make tire mounting lubricants/paste used by just about every tire monkey place or dealership out there. All of the Rema stuff is slippery and does not work. Can you have your shop take a picture of the product/container you are talking about?