Engine is toast - what are the options?
#16
04-07-2014, 08:57 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,666
Rep Power: 235 
Awwwww sheeeeiiiitttt. Hate reading threads like this. Feel for you buddy. I like your attitude about it, probably same as mine. Look at it as an opportunity to take your car to the next level.
#17
04-07-2014, 09:41 PM
#18
04-08-2014, 03:31 AM
i feel for you man!
really looking forward to details.
let's hope it's just a gasket.
best wishes from Austria,
Luke
really looking forward to details.
let's hope it's just a gasket.
best wishes from Austria,
Luke
#19
04-08-2014, 05:56 AM
Sorry to hear that Tailwag, I hope you'll get some better news soon. Kind of strange that this is like the 3rd EVT700+ car I saw with major motor issues on this forum.
BTW, I'm sure you were going quickly, we've been on the same forums since the S2ki Street encounter days lol.
BTW, I'm sure you were going quickly, we've been on the same forums since the S2ki Street encounter days lol.
#20
04-08-2014, 08:37 AM
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 946
Rep Power: 82 That truly SUCKS................. $65K for an engine for these cars is just insane even accounting for the Porsche tax.
If there was white smoke, most probably you blew a had gasket and water got into the engine. It may be salvageable as the first gens have sleeves you can replace along with other stuff. I had a 944 Turbo do that to me and when all was said and done, the entire cost was under $3K as the damage was limited. So keep up the hope.
But if you are going all out with a new engine, there are 4, 4.2 Liter possibilities out there that I salivate over.
If there was white smoke, most probably you blew a had gasket and water got into the engine. It may be salvageable as the first gens have sleeves you can replace along with other stuff. I had a 944 Turbo do that to me and when all was said and done, the entire cost was under $3K as the damage was limited. So keep up the hope.
But if you are going all out with a new engine, there are 4, 4.2 Liter possibilities out there that I salivate over.
I drove by exactly where it happened and it was exactly 1.1 miles from the point where I initially lost power and began decelerating. The "low-oil" warning came up within 1/4 of a mile of that happening and the rest was just me coasting to a stop. By the time I stopped and got out of the car, there was probably another 1/2 a quart to 1 quart of oil that came out of the motor...and most of it was probably just trapped throughout the engine bay/parts...so not really gushing out.
I have never been 100% happy with the EVOMS tune and had several conversations about it with them but, was not willing to wait 2-3 weeks for a simple call back. I went back and forth with them for months. I can't blame the tune for it, but I also can't say it is not related. Frankly, there are so many things that could have gone wrong.
1. Four years ago is when I bought the car and I would get an ocassional "running too rich" on bank 1 and 2. This would happen once per month so it wasn't a big deal to me. I am running 200cell count cats and was running a Fabspeed race exhaust and with the tune and mods, this was something fairly expected.
2. The car ran "ok" for 2 years after that but mid last year, I got the P102 (I think) code that had to do with the camshaft positioning sensor. The problem would come and go and eventually to ensure it was the sensor and not the actual sleeve covering the oil passage, we swapped the sensors from one bank to the other to see if the problem followed the sensor. We cleaned the sensors really good. The P102 problem went away but was replaced with an occasional "random misfire"
3. So in September last year, after dealing with these intermittent random misfires, we replaced the spark plugs (which had been on the car for almost 4 years since the mods were installed). The random misfires went away and the car seemed to have been running exactly the same way as previous years. I thought the problem was fixed.
4. Two days before the big "problem" the random-misfires came back again. One of the things I have learned is that the camshaft positioning sensor is related to temperature as well, so in the winter months, they don't seem to be that big of an issue, but as temperatures go up, they come back to hunt some motors. This may have been the case in mine since swapped the sensors back in September after things began to cool off and the problem seemed to have gone away during the winter months and came back in April, after it began heating back up.
Again, all of these are theories and nothing concrete. Part of me wants to dig in and find out what caused it, but to do so, I am going to have to spend some time pulling resources to get data-log, bringing the engine down, opening it up, investigating and then, I will have to pick a vendor to put it all back together.
The other option is simply to ship the car to the vendor and say...here, you figure it out and you fix it and deal with less aggravations. I spoke with Todd at Protomotive and explained the situation and believes a rod came through the top based on the description and the general picture I painted for him after visually inspecting the car on the lift. He offered lots of great advice and most likely, that is who I would select to fix/build-up the car.
The other option is to remove all the EVT parts, motons, suspension, cage, etc. and replace them with the stock parts. I could get some good money for those parts and I would think the car, in non-running condition, could also get a few bucks.
I don't know...I am thinking out-loud. Lots of options. Bleh...
#21
04-08-2014, 09:25 AM
Hi,
sorry to hear that your car has such massive problems, but it doesn't make sense to go through all possible cases now. Take the engine down and once disassembled you will have the failed parts on the table.
Go from there and chose your options. Good luck.
Andreas
sorry to hear that your car has such massive problems, but it doesn't make sense to go through all possible cases now. Take the engine down and once disassembled you will have the failed parts on the table.
Go from there and chose your options. Good luck.
Andreas
#22
04-08-2014, 09:31 AM
Probably good news if you were running rich. Usually not a catastrophic grenading of the engine. So its fixable and thats what I would do. Have it built correctly lower the compression if you can and up the boost. Dont know if you even need it but you can go with copper gaskets etc to hold it together at crazy boost.
#23
04-08-2014, 10:04 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: beirut lebanon
Age: 49
Posts: 726
Rep Power: 52 I thought about this too, but remember, I completely ran out of oil in exactly 1.1 miles...and that was me coasting 50% of that distance.
I drove by exactly where it happened and it was exactly 1.1 miles from the point where I initially lost power and began decelerating. The "low-oil" warning came up within 1/4 of a mile of that happening and the rest was just me coasting to a stop. By the time I stopped and got out of the car, there was probably another 1/2 a quart to 1 quart of oil that came out of the motor...and most of it was probably just trapped throughout the engine bay/parts...so not really gushing out.
I have never been 100% happy with the EVOMS tune and had several conversations about it with them but, was not willing to wait 2-3 weeks for a simple call back. I went back and forth with them for months. I can't blame the tune for it, but I also can't say it is not related. Frankly, there are so many things that could have gone wrong.
1. Four years ago is when I bought the car and I would get an ocassional "running too rich" on bank 1 and 2. This would happen once per month so it wasn't a big deal to me. I am running 200cell count cats and was running a Fabspeed race exhaust and with the tune and mods, this was something fairly expected.
2. The car ran "ok" for 2 years after that but mid last year, I got the P102 (I think) code that had to do with the camshaft positioning sensor. The problem would come and go and eventually to ensure it was the sensor and not the actual sleeve covering the oil passage, we swapped the sensors from one bank to the other to see if the problem followed the sensor. We cleaned the sensors really good. The P102 problem went away but was replaced with an occasional "random misfire"
3. So in September last year, after dealing with these intermittent random misfires, we replaced the spark plugs (which had been on the car for almost 4 years since the mods were installed). The random misfires went away and the car seemed to have been running exactly the same way as previous years. I thought the problem was fixed.
4. Two days before the big "problem" the random-misfires came back again. One of the things I have learned is that the camshaft positioning sensor is related to temperature as well, so in the winter months, they don't seem to be that big of an issue, but as temperatures go up, they come back to hunt some motors. This may have been the case in mine since swapped the sensors back in September after things began to cool off and the problem seemed to have gone away during the winter months and came back in April, after it began heating back up.
Again, all of these are theories and nothing concrete. Part of me wants to dig in and find out what caused it, but to do so, I am going to have to spend some time pulling resources to get data-log, bringing the engine down, opening it up, investigating and then, I will have to pick a vendor to put it all back together.
The other option is simply to ship the car to the vendor and say...here, you figure it out and you fix it and deal with less aggravations. I spoke with Todd at Protomotive and explained the situation and believes a rod came through the top based on the description and the general picture I painted for him after visually inspecting the car on the lift. He offered lots of great advice and most likely, that is who I would select to fix/build-up the car.
The other option is to remove all the EVT parts, motons, suspension, cage, etc. and replace them with the stock parts. I could get some good money for those parts and I would think the car, in non-running condition, could also get a few bucks.
I don't know...I am thinking out-loud. Lots of options. Bleh...
I drove by exactly where it happened and it was exactly 1.1 miles from the point where I initially lost power and began decelerating. The "low-oil" warning came up within 1/4 of a mile of that happening and the rest was just me coasting to a stop. By the time I stopped and got out of the car, there was probably another 1/2 a quart to 1 quart of oil that came out of the motor...and most of it was probably just trapped throughout the engine bay/parts...so not really gushing out.
I have never been 100% happy with the EVOMS tune and had several conversations about it with them but, was not willing to wait 2-3 weeks for a simple call back. I went back and forth with them for months. I can't blame the tune for it, but I also can't say it is not related. Frankly, there are so many things that could have gone wrong.
1. Four years ago is when I bought the car and I would get an ocassional "running too rich" on bank 1 and 2. This would happen once per month so it wasn't a big deal to me. I am running 200cell count cats and was running a Fabspeed race exhaust and with the tune and mods, this was something fairly expected.
2. The car ran "ok" for 2 years after that but mid last year, I got the P102 (I think) code that had to do with the camshaft positioning sensor. The problem would come and go and eventually to ensure it was the sensor and not the actual sleeve covering the oil passage, we swapped the sensors from one bank to the other to see if the problem followed the sensor. We cleaned the sensors really good. The P102 problem went away but was replaced with an occasional "random misfire"
3. So in September last year, after dealing with these intermittent random misfires, we replaced the spark plugs (which had been on the car for almost 4 years since the mods were installed). The random misfires went away and the car seemed to have been running exactly the same way as previous years. I thought the problem was fixed.
4. Two days before the big "problem" the random-misfires came back again. One of the things I have learned is that the camshaft positioning sensor is related to temperature as well, so in the winter months, they don't seem to be that big of an issue, but as temperatures go up, they come back to hunt some motors. This may have been the case in mine since swapped the sensors back in September after things began to cool off and the problem seemed to have gone away during the winter months and came back in April, after it began heating back up.
Again, all of these are theories and nothing concrete. Part of me wants to dig in and find out what caused it, but to do so, I am going to have to spend some time pulling resources to get data-log, bringing the engine down, opening it up, investigating and then, I will have to pick a vendor to put it all back together.
The other option is simply to ship the car to the vendor and say...here, you figure it out and you fix it and deal with less aggravations. I spoke with Todd at Protomotive and explained the situation and believes a rod came through the top based on the description and the general picture I painted for him after visually inspecting the car on the lift. He offered lots of great advice and most likely, that is who I would select to fix/build-up the car.
The other option is to remove all the EVT parts, motons, suspension, cage, etc. and replace them with the stock parts. I could get some good money for those parts and I would think the car, in non-running condition, could also get a few bucks.
I don't know...I am thinking out-loud. Lots of options. Bleh...
#24
04-08-2014, 10:20 AM
Tailwag, Truly sorry to hear of your misfortune and pretty much understand your angst after experiencing a similar fate four years ago. In no particular order here are a few things to noodle on.
Porsche connecting rods are a weak link in the motor. I bent a couple when my motor/turbo let go and this was with a Stage I Evoms tune before installing the 775 kit. I'm not implying bent rods are inevitable but it's not surprising either.
You are absolutely right in your assertion that the problem could be attributable to a myriad of things. The fact is that tuned cars are a PITA and most of them always have something that needs to be sorted out. In my three years of living with a tuned car, my problems, although sometimes difficult to resolve, have always turned out to be something mechanical or a failed part or something unrelated to the tune. Now, that said, the power a tuned motor makes combined with track or "sporty" usage will accelerate the failure rate of stuff in the car but that's not the fault of the tune, it's just something that should be expected. I used to badger the guys at Evoms (until they pretty much stopped taking my calls too) when I first got my car back with the usual assortment of CEL's, performance issues, etc. and finally was told that I didn't need a better tune, I needed a better shop that could get to the bottom of the issues. Since finding 3Zero3 in Denver which has some sort of working relationship with Evoms we've been able to solve what had previously been unresolvable. In every case persistence (and money) got to the root cause and in no case was the tune the ultimate culprit. At times though when we were out of ideas and up against it, it would have been pretty easy to point an accusing finger at the tune but ultimately that would have proven to be unfair and unwarranted. Parenthetically I would add that it is awfully difficult for any tuning shop to provide telephonic advice when (a) they don't have the car in their possession and can't see the problem for themselves, (b) have no idea who has "touched" the car in the past and done who knows what to it (especially one that has had multiple owners) and (c) have to deal with all of us who can get wound up really tight in the heat of the moment.
Which brings up the next point: Imo, money spent on mods is simply "lost money". You do it for yourself because you enjoy your hobby, not because some future owner will pay up for them. You never get it back. Anyone who thinks they are making an "investment" or "building equity" by dumping dollars into a depreciating asset needs to take another accounting course.
Moving on, I think Evoms is both a reputable and quality shop and that John Brey, their engine builder, is world class. For those unfamiliar with his work check out the cover story in the latest copy of Excellence magazine or the exploits of their built car "Mayhem" in the middle east. It's not an accident that royal families fly them half way around the world to tend to their fleet of performance vehicles or fly their cars to Phoenix to have them prepped. In any event, whether you use Evoms or a different (inter)nationally recognized tuning shop, my recommendation is to get your car to whomever and have them do the complete job. That way you will start over with a fresh build and be able to have some accountability for the end product.
One final thought, it will be important to carefully check for collateral damage - turbos, IC's, exhaust, sensors, etc. etc. since oil can really make a mess out of things.
Tailwag, you've been an important contributor to this forum and I suspect based upon your many posts you went into the world of tuned cars with "eyes wide open" and without the usual *****ing and kvetching most of us fall into when things go against us. At the end of the day it's just about time and money. No one got hurt and it is just a car after all. I hope it turns out well for you whatever you decide. Best,
Porsche connecting rods are a weak link in the motor. I bent a couple when my motor/turbo let go and this was with a Stage I Evoms tune before installing the 775 kit. I'm not implying bent rods are inevitable but it's not surprising either.
You are absolutely right in your assertion that the problem could be attributable to a myriad of things. The fact is that tuned cars are a PITA and most of them always have something that needs to be sorted out. In my three years of living with a tuned car, my problems, although sometimes difficult to resolve, have always turned out to be something mechanical or a failed part or something unrelated to the tune. Now, that said, the power a tuned motor makes combined with track or "sporty" usage will accelerate the failure rate of stuff in the car but that's not the fault of the tune, it's just something that should be expected. I used to badger the guys at Evoms (until they pretty much stopped taking my calls too) when I first got my car back with the usual assortment of CEL's, performance issues, etc. and finally was told that I didn't need a better tune, I needed a better shop that could get to the bottom of the issues. Since finding 3Zero3 in Denver which has some sort of working relationship with Evoms we've been able to solve what had previously been unresolvable. In every case persistence (and money) got to the root cause and in no case was the tune the ultimate culprit. At times though when we were out of ideas and up against it, it would have been pretty easy to point an accusing finger at the tune but ultimately that would have proven to be unfair and unwarranted. Parenthetically I would add that it is awfully difficult for any tuning shop to provide telephonic advice when (a) they don't have the car in their possession and can't see the problem for themselves, (b) have no idea who has "touched" the car in the past and done who knows what to it (especially one that has had multiple owners) and (c) have to deal with all of us who can get wound up really tight in the heat of the moment.
Which brings up the next point: Imo, money spent on mods is simply "lost money". You do it for yourself because you enjoy your hobby, not because some future owner will pay up for them. You never get it back. Anyone who thinks they are making an "investment" or "building equity" by dumping dollars into a depreciating asset needs to take another accounting course.
Moving on, I think Evoms is both a reputable and quality shop and that John Brey, their engine builder, is world class. For those unfamiliar with his work check out the cover story in the latest copy of Excellence magazine or the exploits of their built car "Mayhem" in the middle east. It's not an accident that royal families fly them half way around the world to tend to their fleet of performance vehicles or fly their cars to Phoenix to have them prepped. In any event, whether you use Evoms or a different (inter)nationally recognized tuning shop, my recommendation is to get your car to whomever and have them do the complete job. That way you will start over with a fresh build and be able to have some accountability for the end product.
One final thought, it will be important to carefully check for collateral damage - turbos, IC's, exhaust, sensors, etc. etc. since oil can really make a mess out of things.
Tailwag, you've been an important contributor to this forum and I suspect based upon your many posts you went into the world of tuned cars with "eyes wide open" and without the usual *****ing and kvetching most of us fall into when things go against us. At the end of the day it's just about time and money. No one got hurt and it is just a car after all. I hope it turns out well for you whatever you decide. Best,
Last edited by Steamboat; 04-08-2014 at 12:33 PM.
#25
04-08-2014, 11:06 AM
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 946
Rep Power: 82 Tailwag, Truly sorry to hear of your misfortune and pretty much understand your angst after experiencing a similar fate four years ago. In no particular order here are a few things to noodle on.
Porsche connecting rods are a weak link in the motor. I bent a couple when my motor/turbo let go and this was with a Stage I Evoms tune before installing the 775 kit. I'm not implying bent rods are inevitable but it's not surprising either.
You are absolutely right in your assertion that the problem could be attributable to a myriad of things. The fact is that tuned cars are a PITA and most of them always have something that needs to be sorted out. In my three years of living with a tuned car, my problems, although sometimes difficult to resolve, have always turned out to be something mechanical or a failed part or something unrelated to the tune. Now, that said, the power a tuned motor makes combined with track or "sporty" usage will accelerate the failure rate of stuff in the car but that's not the fault of the tune, it's just something that should be expected. I used to badger the guys at Evoms (until they pretty much stopped taking my calls too) when I first got my car back with the usual assortment of CEL's, performance issues, etc. and finally was told that I didn't need a better tune, I needed a better shop that could get to the bottom of the issues. Since finding 3Zero3 in Denver which has some sort of working relationship with Evoms we've been able to solve what had previously been insolvable. In every case persistence (and money) got to the root cause and in no case was the tune the ultimate culprit. At times though when we were out of ideas and up against it, it would have been pretty easy to point an accusing finger at the tune but ultimately that would have proven to be unfair and unwarranted. Parenthetically I would add that it is awfully difficult for any tuning shop to provide telephonic advice when (a) they don't have the car in their possession and can't see the problem for themselves, (b) have no idea who has "touched" the car in the past and done who knows what to it (especially one that has had multiple owners) and (c) have to deal with all of us who can get wound up really tight in the heat of the moment.
Which brings up the next point: Imo, money spent on mods is simply "lost money". You do it for yourself because you enjoy your hobby, not because some future owner will pay up for them. You never get it back. Anyone who thinks they are making an "investment" or "building equity" by dumping dollars into a depreciating asset needs to take another accounting course.
Moving on, I think Evoms is both a reputable and quality shop and that John Brey, their engine builder, is world class. For those unfamiliar with his work check out the cover story in the latest copy of Excellence magazine or the exploits of their built car "Mayhem" in the middle east. It's not an accident that royal families fly them half way around the world to tend to their fleet of performance vehicles or fly their cars to Phoenix to have them prepped. In any event, whether you use Evoms or a different (inter)nationally recognized tuning shop, my recommendation is to get your car to whomever and have them do the complete job. That way you will start over with a fresh build and be able to have some accountability for the end product.
One final thought, it will be important to carefully check for collateral damage - turbos, IC's, exhaust, sensors, etc. etc. since oil can really make a mess out of things.
Tailwag, you've been an important contributor to this forum and I suspect based upon your many posts you went into the world of tuned cars with "eyes wide open" and without the usual *****ing and kvetching most of us fall into when things go against us. At the end of the day it's just about time and money. No one got hurt and it is just a car after all. I hope it turns out well for you whatever you decide. Best,
Porsche connecting rods are a weak link in the motor. I bent a couple when my motor/turbo let go and this was with a Stage I Evoms tune before installing the 775 kit. I'm not implying bent rods are inevitable but it's not surprising either.
You are absolutely right in your assertion that the problem could be attributable to a myriad of things. The fact is that tuned cars are a PITA and most of them always have something that needs to be sorted out. In my three years of living with a tuned car, my problems, although sometimes difficult to resolve, have always turned out to be something mechanical or a failed part or something unrelated to the tune. Now, that said, the power a tuned motor makes combined with track or "sporty" usage will accelerate the failure rate of stuff in the car but that's not the fault of the tune, it's just something that should be expected. I used to badger the guys at Evoms (until they pretty much stopped taking my calls too) when I first got my car back with the usual assortment of CEL's, performance issues, etc. and finally was told that I didn't need a better tune, I needed a better shop that could get to the bottom of the issues. Since finding 3Zero3 in Denver which has some sort of working relationship with Evoms we've been able to solve what had previously been insolvable. In every case persistence (and money) got to the root cause and in no case was the tune the ultimate culprit. At times though when we were out of ideas and up against it, it would have been pretty easy to point an accusing finger at the tune but ultimately that would have proven to be unfair and unwarranted. Parenthetically I would add that it is awfully difficult for any tuning shop to provide telephonic advice when (a) they don't have the car in their possession and can't see the problem for themselves, (b) have no idea who has "touched" the car in the past and done who knows what to it (especially one that has had multiple owners) and (c) have to deal with all of us who can get wound up really tight in the heat of the moment.
Which brings up the next point: Imo, money spent on mods is simply "lost money". You do it for yourself because you enjoy your hobby, not because some future owner will pay up for them. You never get it back. Anyone who thinks they are making an "investment" or "building equity" by dumping dollars into a depreciating asset needs to take another accounting course.
Moving on, I think Evoms is both a reputable and quality shop and that John Brey, their engine builder, is world class. For those unfamiliar with his work check out the cover story in the latest copy of Excellence magazine or the exploits of their built car "Mayhem" in the middle east. It's not an accident that royal families fly them half way around the world to tend to their fleet of performance vehicles or fly their cars to Phoenix to have them prepped. In any event, whether you use Evoms or a different (inter)nationally recognized tuning shop, my recommendation is to get your car to whomever and have them do the complete job. That way you will start over with a fresh build and be able to have some accountability for the end product.
One final thought, it will be important to carefully check for collateral damage - turbos, IC's, exhaust, sensors, etc. etc. since oil can really make a mess out of things.
Tailwag, you've been an important contributor to this forum and I suspect based upon your many posts you went into the world of tuned cars with "eyes wide open" and without the usual *****ing and kvetching most of us fall into when things go against us. At the end of the day it's just about time and money. No one got hurt and it is just a car after all. I hope it turns out well for you whatever you decide. Best,
When I purchased my car, that was something that was stressed in my mind so basically I paid for the car with "free-mods", which was the ONLY way I would buy a car that was that modified. I think I got a great deal so, maybe that is why I am taking it pretty well.
I am not speaking ill about EVOMS. I need to clarify that and I am, by no means, blaming the tune or the parts on this issue. They have/had good reputation for a reason, but based on my experience and others as well, they definitely lack customer service and that is that. You bet that advice over the phone is simply that and that nobody can diagnose something over the phone - - I was not seeking free advice from them nor to not pay for their time. I was seeking help with a product they sold and was very open about shipping my ECU or even the car for them to get it worked on - not at cost, not for free, but I was willing to pay what they told me it would cost. But if it would take 2-3 weeks to get a call returned, then there were some problems. If after I talked to someone, they would claim they would call me back the following day with a plan...and 2-3 days after not hearing from them, I would call and leave messages and emails, and I would only hear back from them 30-45 days after the fact, without a plan, without prices, with a simple, we will get back to you (mind you that was what was said the previous conversation)...then, I could not really feel comfortable with shipping anything up there. Again, that is simple customer service. I run a business and if I tell someone I am going to call them back, that is what I do...even if I don't have the answer for them, I let them know I am still working on it - but, that is me.
#26
04-09-2014, 10:52 AM
Tailwag, any idea when the engine will be pulled? I'm anxious to hear if your engine is repairable or not. My next move will be an engine build but I'm hoping to put that off for awhile, mine is running great at the moment but I do keep hearing the connecting rods and stud bolts are a definite requirement if GIAC is
to turn my boost up.
to turn my boost up.
#27
04-09-2014, 03:38 PM
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 946
Rep Power: 82 Tailwag, any idea when the engine will be pulled? I'm anxious to hear if your engine is repairable or not. My next move will be an engine build but I'm hoping to put that off for awhile, mine is running great at the moment but I do keep hearing the connecting rods and stud bolts are a definite requirement if GIAC is
to turn my boost up.
to turn my boost up.
I should be able to share more in the next few days. The engine should be down and taken apart to asses the situation at hand as well as a thorough datalog to see what exactly happened to try to make further sense out of it.
If people are curious, here is exactly what was done to the car. The car currently has 24,100 miles. Once the motor is down, I will have some photos up and more information for further feedback and consideration.
PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS
• WEVO Semi Solid Motor Mounts
• EVOMS/Sach Race Engineering Stage III Street Clutch System (brand new and still in box)
• Werks Composites High Flow Intercoolers aka charge-coolers
• Werks Boost Hoses
• Fabspeed 70mm 200 cell cats
• 70mm dumps Fabspeed Maxflow 70mm race exhaust (dumps are currently installed – they can be switched in 10 minutes)
• Evolution Motorsports EVT750 (T775+) full kit (installed at 13,500 miles apx.)
- EVOMS High Flow VTG Turbos w/65mm billet compressor wheels
- EVOMSit EVT 775 Clubsport ECU Pump Calibration @ 7,000rpm
- EVOMS 44.5mm exhaust headers
- EVOMS High Flow inlet ducts
- EVOMS Billet boost recirculation valves
- EVOMS 82mm Plenum
- GT3 Throttle Body
- EVOMS Turbo/GT2 ClubSport Lightweight Underdrive Strengthened Crank pulley
- GT3RS Belt
- EVOMS High Energy Discharge Ignition Coil Packs
- Denso Double Platinum PK20PR-P8 Spark Plugs (recently replaced at 23,150 miles along with the oil change)
SUSPENSIONS AND BRAKES (installed at 15,500 miles apx.)
• GMG Adjustable Sway Bars (Front and Rear)
• GMG Dog Bones
• GMG Solid Control Arm Bushings
• GMG Rear Toe Links
• GMG Tie Rods
• Moton Street/Race Adjustable shocks w/Eibach springs
• Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
• Stock 911 Turbo rotors and brake pads (replaced at 23,150 miles)
EXTERIOR MODIFICATIONS
• Tinted taillights (smoked Laminex - can be removed in 5 minutes)
• Tinted windows (legal 35%)
• CF Hood wrap (can be removed)
• EVT Graphics on sides and rear (can be removed)
• Tailwag rear bumper exhaust exit guards (to be used with 70mm dumps only) – can be interchanged with Fabspeed exhaust (also included) – change takes 10 minutes.
• Calibre K40 radar detector w/dual head laser jammer and hard wired LEDs on dash for front and rear warnings
• Silver/Black crestline Porsche logo (still have the gold one too)
INTERIOR MODIFICATIONS
• GT3 Race Seats (I still have stock seats stored at home in perfect condition)
• GT3RS alcantara Steering wheel with airbag (also have the stock leather steering wheel with all controls and the stock air bag)
• GT3 alcantara shifter and boot (also have the stock leather boot)
• Rear seat delete (I still have the seats stored at home and in perfect condition)
• GMG RSR Rollbar/cage
• Gloria Fire Extinguisher
• Sparco dual 5/6-point-harnesses
• Champion sport short-throw shifter
• EVOMS Billet 4-pedal racing set
• JL Audio dual 8”subs (they fit perfectly with the cage)
• XM Satellite Radio fully integrated and operational with the OEM factory controls
WHEELS AND TIRES
• GMG Wheel Stud conversion
• Champion Motorsport black RS171 Forged Monolites (19 x 9 / 19 x 11.5)
• Toyo R888s (235/35/19) on front and Michelin PS2 N2 (305/30/19) on rear with about 50% tread left on front and about 30% tread left on rear
• An additional full set of Toyo R888s with about 85% tread all around and an extra set of rear PS2 N2 with about 80% tread left
• Silver/black Porsche wheel caps (still have the gold set, too)
#28
04-09-2014, 06:14 PM
Tailwag, any idea when the engine will be pulled? I'm anxious to hear if your engine is repairable or not. My next move will be an engine build but I'm hoping to put that off for awhile, mine is running great at the moment but I do keep hearing the connecting rods and stud bolts are a definite requirement if GIAC is
to turn my boost up.
to turn my boost up.
#29
04-09-2014, 10:08 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Age: 62
Posts: 6,379
Rep Power: 345
Bummer, I'd probably try to rebuild the motor or go after an eBay core in good shape.
Higher hp results in higher stress, higher heat, greater wear and tear. I wouldn't personally go above 600hp in the future if I were you.
Higher hp results in higher stress, higher heat, greater wear and tear. I wouldn't personally go above 600hp in the future if I were you.
#30
04-10-2014, 01:27 PM
My 2 cents:
If the motor can be rebuilt, then it seems the obvious choice to rebuild it. If it can't, then you just need to find a good core somewhere and fill it up with parts that are made to do whatever power figures you have in mind.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "core" of this engine is the same core that was in the '98 GT1 at Le Mans. You just have to make sure the parts are designed for your power.
If it were me, I'd increase displacement, if for no other reason than to have a 3.8L, 4.0L, 4.1L, etc. TT, which will be fairly unique--not many around, particularly if you go 4.0L or above. Again, if it were me, I'd use FVD's 4.1L build and combine it with whatever turbos you want. I've had FVD's stage 3 tune (modified turbos) for over a year with OE plugs, coils, and fuel system, and my motor has never acted any differently from when it was stock--until I mash the go pedal. No misfires, no smoke, no starting issues, no hesitations, rock-solid temps, etc. Just blast off! I'm likely in the neighborhood of 650bhp, as I have ICs and other intake mods that were integrated into the tune.
I need the car to be faster like I need a whole in my head, but that doesn't keep me from dreaming about that 4.1L, freshly rebuilt motor someday--my own TT RS4.1.
Good luck, and please report when the cause is determined.
LP
If the motor can be rebuilt, then it seems the obvious choice to rebuild it. If it can't, then you just need to find a good core somewhere and fill it up with parts that are made to do whatever power figures you have in mind.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the "core" of this engine is the same core that was in the '98 GT1 at Le Mans. You just have to make sure the parts are designed for your power.
If it were me, I'd increase displacement, if for no other reason than to have a 3.8L, 4.0L, 4.1L, etc. TT, which will be fairly unique--not many around, particularly if you go 4.0L or above. Again, if it were me, I'd use FVD's 4.1L build and combine it with whatever turbos you want. I've had FVD's stage 3 tune (modified turbos) for over a year with OE plugs, coils, and fuel system, and my motor has never acted any differently from when it was stock--until I mash the go pedal. No misfires, no smoke, no starting issues, no hesitations, rock-solid temps, etc. Just blast off! I'm likely in the neighborhood of 650bhp, as I have ICs and other intake mods that were integrated into the tune.
I need the car to be faster like I need a whole in my head, but that doesn't keep me from dreaming about that 4.1L, freshly rebuilt motor someday--my own TT RS4.1.
Good luck, and please report when the cause is determined.
LP