I'm looking at having a residential garage door installed and would like to call and discuss with anyone here in the US that has one.
If you don't mind please PM me with your phone number and a convenient time to call.

Thanks,

Walt

 

Subscribing. Pics? Roll up like linoleum?

 

Options are rolling steel or sheet door. The sheet door is lighter weight and less expensive however the rolling steel can be insulated and better quality. I was hoping someone had already done this and had some lessons learned.

With the new Jag I want to stack the 997 so I can keep the four cars in the 3 car garage.

 

Why do you want a roll up door in Texas, your garage temp will go through the roof. I was able to fit three cars in two car garage when I lived in SJ with a lift. I put the lift as far back as it would go and backed the top car onto it so when the garage door went up it came over the front fenders. I had to get a new garage door that was thinner and have them raise the garage door opener tracts. Have you thought of getting a side mount garage door opener, I have one on my tall garage door and you loose the track and the door can be within inches of the ceiling. This is what I used.

http://www.liftmaster.com/lmcv2/prod...-door-openers/

 

I want to get 4-cars in my 3-car garage.

I already have a 2-post lift and want to stack my 911 and Jag or Cayenne. My ceiling height will not allow me to install the high lift rails and get the 911 high enough to park under.
I already have a Liftmaster 3800.

As for the temps going through the roof I don't agree. My current door is a thin uninsulated steel door. I'm looking at an insulated roll up door. The roll up doors seal just as well if installed correctly and have sealing strips.

Walt

 

You do have a side mount, then just get them to redo the door so it is flush with the ceiling. You will have to move the extension cord, wheels and ceiling light. If I knew how to post photos I would show you in my garage, the difference is my ceiling is 16 feet high. Should have gotten a 4 post lift with rollers.

 

I have to raise the lift all the way up with the 911 on it to park underneath. When that is done the top of the car is around 2 inches from the ceiling. You can not put a high lift rail in and have it less than 2 inches below the ceiling.

4-post lifts are great for storage but not for working on cars or changing the wheels. I installed this lift to primarily work on my cars and change my track wheels.

My ceiling is 10'. If I had anything greater than 10' 5" I would have gone with a high lift rail system and kept my sectional door.

I've thought this out. I'm simply looking for others that have installed roll up garage doors at their house for their lessons learned. It appears however that not many ,if any on this forum, have these in their homes.



Walt

 

I looked at rollup garage doors but they all looked to industrial in a residential home. I was able to do the lift with two Porsche's in my old home with a standard 10 foot garage but it was close.

 

Hello Walt!

Did you take into consideration where the roof of your car would come closest to the ceiling if the door were hugging the ceiling too? You may not be able to get a conventional door that close, but the closer you run the tracks to the ceiling, the further away from the door opening the door will stop when it's fully opened.

Don't know if this makes sense, let me know if it doesn't. I have added a crappy illustration to help.

 

Hi Domer,

Makes perfect sense and I might be able to get away with it.

I previously measured and was skeptical because I need the car all the way up on the lift. The door will not clear the top of the car however I really do not need it to.

Currently it appears that the door, once fully opened via the high lift rails, will be above the rear of the car but just short of the rear window. Another option I thought about is to set the limit switches so that the 7 foot vertical door stops opening about a foot short of normal so essentially the garage door opening will be 6' vertically instead of 7'. That combined with your idea may work out fine.

Thanks for the input. I'll take a picture once everything is installed.

Walt

 

I'll match your drawing with my drawing. Pretty poor I know.

Walt

 

I have the exact same issue. I called an OHD company and they would adjust the track so that the door does not roll back into the garage until it is closer to the ceiling. This would require them to install a 2 x 8 backer closer to the ceiling on the door wall. The spring and shaft would them be moved up and mounted to this backer. The next thing was to add track between where the door used to make the 90 degree turn and where it now would make the 90 degree bend. If you look closely at your current door you will notice that the door gradually moves away from the wall the further it moves up the track. With the new setup it will be even more and there was concern that when the door was fully closed that the top of the door would be further away from the wall leaving a gap. I told them that if that was an issue I would simply add a larger rubber seal on top of the door to seal the gap. Home Depot sells all kinds of rubber overhead door seals for the top and the bottom of the door. If I remember correctly they quoted me about 700.00 to do this. I have not had it done to date but it's on my list of things to do.

Hope this helps!

 

Back the car in so the garage door moves over the front fender and comes short of the windshield.

 

Another option also.
Thanks!

Walt