NTK sensors will live a lot longer than the Bosch sensors in my experience. If you run some unleaded on them after they start to read strangely you can usually bring them back too.

 

Of course that begs the question if it really was 35 degrees. I would like to see that on the timing light .

 

i mean, i am not saying Ethanol is better than VP import. that would be a stupid point to argue. with that said 25 full tank fill ups with VP import are worth about the same as a good used low mile 997TT engine

for me spending almost 40$/Gal is not an option as i like driving my car as much as i can not just to a car meet to swing my d*** around and go home.

as far as C16 goes, E85 will do just as good **with the right fuel system**

 

Not disagreeing with you on power output, but the safety margin of an overly aggressive tune and/or poor conditions (i.e. hot) is less. I'm not trying to rain on the Ethanol parade, I love the stuff. Rather I am just saying to the general board membership who reads this thread be careful it's not $2/gallon VP Import.

 

To be fair, the reason lead is there to begin with is to make it 'harder' to pre-ignite (i.e. start melting/breaking things).

The caveat with E85 is that it won't be a spark knock problem, but a pre-ignition problem. While ethanol has a high resistance to autoignition, it has a fairly low resistance to hot surface ignition. That means if you have hot surfaces in your engine, like hot spark plugs or carbon deposits, it will ignite on those before the spark. This will destroy your engine, fast, but we're talking about certain extremes.

What would I personally pick for a half mile or full mile run for added safety, it'd be a toss between E85 and C16 but if I had to pick one the vote in the end would probably go to leaded fuel/C16.

Dzenno@PTF

 

Side Note -- When/IF you build the motor on this shop car, will you take photos of the rods to confirm the power you were pushing was safe or perhaps a tad bit aggressive.

Thanks.

 

Absolutely, but if that does happen we'll know sooner than waiting to open the motor.

 

Chkmgnt59,


The above response from PTF is why this pushing of the rods envelop is a little different.


I fully understand where you are coming from and personally do not want to have a 20k engine build either. The point is they are fully documenting their trip to the deep end and IF it all holds together with their careful tuning and testing OVER TIME, we has as a community have found how to make more power reliably on a stock motor.... and with affordable pump and meth for us guys that are paying $750CDN for a drum of E85!!!


I also have a Todd K / Protomotive 63.5 E85 tuned magic (just got car on road and will open another thread with results!), but I am open to solid, documented, reliable companies as that is how a platform grows!


I remember when the MK4 Supra's came out and every one was saying that 600bhp was the limit, but after companies / people kept on doing what PTF and others are doing, they realized you can have 800+RWHP on a stock short block & many even long block reliably(some 30k-60k) IF TUNED PROPERLY!!

I understand TODD K has built more of these cars then anyone (hence why my car is a Proto car), but as a platform we should always be moving forward , learning as we continue to push the platform forward.


Thanks


Bobby Ali


ba

 

the danger with stock rods is beating some 60-130 on 3rd and 4th gear where down low torque hit most (i was spiking 2bar+ before i bent my rods), even worse when break boosting but had great succes in 1/4 mile imo way safer cuz you stay in upper gear all the way!was hitting 26-28 psi on top on my a28s with meth hitting 140mph trap
timing play alote and got to be very conseverave around 4000-5000
this is where cilender pressure hit most
if this can help my timing at 4500 was around 12deg then goes 21deg up top and that with meth with 30psi spike to 26-28 psi up top

 

Isn't that also because you have stock heads, cams, manifold and stock displacement ?

 

my heads were ported. everything else was stock.

 

@mtlsp, I'm not sure if you ever got a chance to take your car on a dyno but I can tell you that given where your boost was (26-28psi with spikes to 30psi) and your timing at 12* in midrange you must've been putting down at least least 100awtq if not more more than what we're showing here. Our boost control is doing great and it is smooth without spikes at any load/rpm range and we're in the 22psi range down low with less timing putting down 680awtq on our Mustang AWD dyno.

What tune were you running back then and what were you using for boost control and logging?

Dzenno@PTF

 

Your trap speed and vbox # as fast fully built 3.8's w/35's but I'm not sure how your car perform on lower boost ( 93 octane )

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...6-project.html

 

sorry for the late dzenno ,to answer your question i have evom gt700 flash+ eurodyne for fine tuning and logs , i bypassed my oem n75 with an ebc !
without meth only evom flash i was set at 22psi and lower timing it trap 132mph then with eurodyne+meth more boost more timing = 140
i would not be suprise that meth added me close to 100hp on the bench