Im at this point myself right now.... I changed the b1 actuator because it was fairly cheap and I own my own shop (so we do all the work ourselves)

the light came back on after I cycled the key *(after driving approx 20miles)

cleared it again and went for a another drive yesterday after doing an oil change (needed anyway)

light came back on after approx 20 miles again but I drove the snot out of it all day (about 200miles)

back at my shop today, will clear the light a few more times before I decide to really dig into this.

Kind of annoyed as I had the engine/trans out a few months ago to weld coolant lines and to replace every rubber hose and o ring...

anyway lets keep this thread alive in case anyone else is having this issue and we can come up with some reliable answers. So far everything I read leads nowhere...

 

Hello, How can you determine if your 2007 997.1 tt has the faulty outsourced parts that cause this failure and the costly repairs in it's future? Is there somewhere to search your VIN to see if it was in the production run that used the bad parts? Has anyone gotten anywhere with PORSCHE even though it's a 10 year old problem? It is after all a manufacturer's defect right? Thanks.

 

I have been fighting a Catalytic converter code for a few months now, and while clearing those as my monthly routine, I noticed the p0021 in there.

From what I read, that is the Bank 2 sensor (forgot to see which side it was when I had that slight heart attack because I have read the spun cam treads). I am going to see if it pops up again, and if so, 99710530373, and it sounds like i should just order 2 and do both.

Thanks again TAILWAG for making this thread. I just wish Photosuckit would still have the pictures you posted, but I am dealing with their image hosting too, so I get it.

X...

 

I know! I had so much information on that site and after they did their "photo kidnapping", it was such a mess. If you want to, pm me your email and I will be glad to email you some of the photos I may still have in my computer.

 

Well it looks like my p1100 code is baaaaaaack. 3 years ago it happened and I ended up getting the camshaft solenoid actuator replaced. All was well. My engine was down at the beginning of the year and I had all of my hoses replaced. Considered having my camshafts pinned but due to scheduling it just didn't get done and with spring arriving I said just put the engine back in. I've been datalogging my new Xonas for months and have most of the fine tuning done but now "beep" and the darn CEL. I datalogged pretty much every run I've done (dozens) and one can see in the log from the other day that the "actual camshaft position" value was consistent between left and right side until that day. The problem is in the lower rpm range, and this is consistent with being stuck in the "high" position. I'm nervous that this is actually a spun camshaft because this solenoid is only 3 years old, but hey let's remain optimistic! It's funny...I remember looking at the solenoid when my engine was down and wondering if I should just replace all of the solenoids. They aren't super cheap so I decided against it. At least this one on the top isn't too hard to get to...although I did pay Porsche a boatload of money for labour 3 years ago...grrrrr.

Rock had mentioned earlier in this thread that he didn't think there was anything wrong with driving the car hard even with the error...does that opinion still stand? Anyone else have an opinion? My annual track day is in 3 weeks and if it is a spun camshaft then I was still hoping to attend in my P car. Last year the coolant hose blew the week before the event and I had to take my brand new A7 to the track and just grandma it around all day (since I had already paid for the day). I noticed in the first few logs after the cel came on that there was increased knock sensor activity (some -4s and -6s) but gradually the car has adapted so that there are only -2s and -3s. Maybe my spirited driving has pushed out some of the "crud".

I did change my oil a few weeks ago. I have always used Mobil 1 0w40. Not sure if there's any point in changing it again? The oil and filter were changed when the new turbos were put in and then recently.

 

Well that sucks. If it were me, since I am cautious, I would not drive it at the event if you still have the CELS. But that's me. Now if you had and RS7 you could still have fun at the track with the Audi!

If your CEL is indicating only 1 bank, you can swap the actuators and see if the problem follows. If so, replace and run the day.

Ed

 

The car is going to the shop on Friday to be scanned for all codes, so if it's just the actuator then I'll have it changed.
I wish I had an RS7, lol, but at least the A7 has red brake calipers...that makes it better at the track, right? lol

 

there are two of those solenoids....did you replace both?

 

I think only the bank 1 was replaced a few years ago...the same side with the current CEL.

 

Praying for sh!tty sensor quality!

 

lol true.
My shop hooked up a couple of odbII readers and long story short they don't think it's the camshaft, probably the solenoid. They reset the code again (I had reset it via the Cobb previously) and so far it hasn't come on after a few power cycles. The subsequent Cobb logs show closer correlation between the left and right side with just slight lag so maybe whatever the problem was is working itself out...or the cel will come back and I'll change the solenoid, lol.

 

The cel hasn't come back and the left and right banks are behaving pretty much identically now in the Cobb log of "actual camshaft position" so perhaps it was some debris that has now passed through. Or gremlins. Who knows. Car drives fine now and I'm back to datalogging and hopefully no issues before the track day in a couple of weeks....

 

May the force be with you! Just not enough to twist the cams.

Ed

 

I'm still a firm believer that lazy/dying actuators have to be the cause of the spun cams. The only thing exerting a resistance on the cam (and therefore cause spin) is the actuator itself. I changed my passenger side one when I first found this thread, but I think I am going to preemptively change out the driver side one.

 

I'm still trying to figure out why this happened. Logs are perfect now with perfect correlation between left and right bank. Could have been lazy solenoid or partially spun camshaft which "fixed itself", lol. As far as causes, I realize I've been doing something that probably wasn't very smart - I add oil to the car regularly because with all the full throttle datalogs the car does burn through a bit of oil (same with my previous turbos). I have a bunch of the 5L oil jugs and I pour some oil into an empty 1 litre oil container in order to pour into the car. I've been using the same old 1 litre container for over a year and I guess it's possible there was some crud in it. In any case, I'll splurge (lol) for a fresh 1 litre oil container. Just before it happened I was really flogging the car and it was faaaaast. Maybe that did it? There are faster/quicker cars on this forum without any issues so I don't know.

Car is back to being a beast - consistent 2.7s 60-100s!