Rix 997.1 Turbo Project 121
#107
put a new steering wheel in your car
__________________
#TeamAIM
997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
#TeamAIM
997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
#109
Awesome stuff! many have no idea what goes into this type of build. Even if you just skimp which you are not!
#110
However for us engine performance junkies, this is a phenomenal thread . Its a great way to empty pockets too as I found out with my mere 700whp lol
#111
haha! Laughed at this post. For those of us who like modifications, this post has been awesome. Can't wait to get my fully built now 997.1 with 3.8 engine back from John Bray and Sam By Design. It won't be anything like this monster but awesome for my needs. Great thread and huge accomplishment to Rix. I've learned a lot just by reading it!!!
#112
haha! Laughed at this post. For those of us who like modifications, this post has been awesome. Can't wait to get my fully built now 997.1 with 3.8 engine back from John Bray and Sam By Design. It won't be anything like this monster but awesome for my needs. Great thread and huge accomplishment to Rix. I've learned a lot just by reading it!!!
#113
You know I should. I'll do an unboxing video of when it comes, talk about the quality of the hand stitched leather and beautiful alcantara. Then I can do a video showing how to remove the factory wheel and properly clock the new one and include that in the thread.
I'll call it -
"GT2RS Red Alcantara PORSCHE -- There is no substitude... to the interface to your car"
That thread would burn the 6speed servers to the ground.
I'll call it -
"GT2RS Red Alcantara PORSCHE -- There is no substitude... to the interface to your car"
That thread would burn the 6speed servers to the ground.
#116
The clutch is great, one of my favorite things about the car. The way it shifts with the Tilton is shocking. If you scroll up somewhere in the thread there is video of the 4-5 shift. Although I'd heard people say it before, I had not realized how big of a difference it would make.
From a drivability standpoint it feels like a stock clutch. It slips smooth as silk. The pedal effort is very low as well. In fact, if it were any lower it might be difficult to drive. Engagement window is good, it is not an on/off switch. I can literally let off the clutch from idle without touching the gas to take off from a stop.
The only question mark is how well it wears, but the way I drive it I expect it to last a long time before it needs service/shimming. I'll find out at the end of the year, which unless something unexpected happens is the next time I plan on having the transmission out of the car.
The way I look at it is you can spend ~6500 on the Tilton and know you have the best clutch out there, great drivability, and great shifting. When people are losing syncros in high horsepower builds that's directly related to how well the clutch unloads and releases. I suspect the trans will live a lot longer with this clutch than others.
Or you can spend ~4500 on an ERP carbon clutch, be wary of revisions, and know that engagement window isn't ideal. Then you spend $135 on the RSS clutch stop (it comes with the Tilton kit from Evospec), and $1200 on the clutch slave cylinder from BBi. I have no personal experience with the BBi slave, but talking to a good friend who has one scared me off. He was in the 1000whp+ Supra crowd for years and knows what he's doing. Has an '07 Turbo with bolt ons now. He said the pedal effort on the BBi slave was very high and he didn't like it. You're into it for ~$5800. I think it's too much of a compromise in reliability, performance, and peace of mind.
Or you can spend ~4500 and get the twin disc Protomotive/Driversource clutch. I have no experience with it, but Jordon is running it here locally and DFW and likes it. Steve says it works, Protomotive says it works. Drivability is good, engagement window is good. You still need the clutch stop and clutch slave cylinder conversion. It's even money with the ERP, but probably doesn't hold as much torque and certainly doesn't release as well as the Tilton. It does however drive like a stock clutch, and as long as you're not launching the car all the time it will work well.
You're really talking about a $700 difference when you compare it apples to apples. My argument is just suck it up and buy the Tilton. Even if you have to shim it once a year I think that's an acceptable service life given the criteria. For a daily driver I'd probably go with the Protomotive twin from Steve. He does modify them slightly, although I don't know what he does. They are running quite a few of them in the Houston cars and they work. I've just seen too many failures and problems with the ERP to make it feel worth it.
My only nagging issue with the Protomotive setup is the value proposition, it's effectively a modified stock style clutch setup to accept two stock style discs. I have the same issue with it as I had with the Protomotive intake parts, a high price with a lower materials cost. Just doesn't strike me as a good value. Just my opinion.
From a drivability standpoint it feels like a stock clutch. It slips smooth as silk. The pedal effort is very low as well. In fact, if it were any lower it might be difficult to drive. Engagement window is good, it is not an on/off switch. I can literally let off the clutch from idle without touching the gas to take off from a stop.
The only question mark is how well it wears, but the way I drive it I expect it to last a long time before it needs service/shimming. I'll find out at the end of the year, which unless something unexpected happens is the next time I plan on having the transmission out of the car.
The way I look at it is you can spend ~6500 on the Tilton and know you have the best clutch out there, great drivability, and great shifting. When people are losing syncros in high horsepower builds that's directly related to how well the clutch unloads and releases. I suspect the trans will live a lot longer with this clutch than others.
Or you can spend ~4500 on an ERP carbon clutch, be wary of revisions, and know that engagement window isn't ideal. Then you spend $135 on the RSS clutch stop (it comes with the Tilton kit from Evospec), and $1200 on the clutch slave cylinder from BBi. I have no personal experience with the BBi slave, but talking to a good friend who has one scared me off. He was in the 1000whp+ Supra crowd for years and knows what he's doing. Has an '07 Turbo with bolt ons now. He said the pedal effort on the BBi slave was very high and he didn't like it. You're into it for ~$5800. I think it's too much of a compromise in reliability, performance, and peace of mind.
Or you can spend ~4500 and get the twin disc Protomotive/Driversource clutch. I have no experience with it, but Jordon is running it here locally and DFW and likes it. Steve says it works, Protomotive says it works. Drivability is good, engagement window is good. You still need the clutch stop and clutch slave cylinder conversion. It's even money with the ERP, but probably doesn't hold as much torque and certainly doesn't release as well as the Tilton. It does however drive like a stock clutch, and as long as you're not launching the car all the time it will work well.
You're really talking about a $700 difference when you compare it apples to apples. My argument is just suck it up and buy the Tilton. Even if you have to shim it once a year I think that's an acceptable service life given the criteria. For a daily driver I'd probably go with the Protomotive twin from Steve. He does modify them slightly, although I don't know what he does. They are running quite a few of them in the Houston cars and they work. I've just seen too many failures and problems with the ERP to make it feel worth it.
My only nagging issue with the Protomotive setup is the value proposition, it's effectively a modified stock style clutch setup to accept two stock style discs. I have the same issue with it as I had with the Protomotive intake parts, a high price with a lower materials cost. Just doesn't strike me as a good value. Just my opinion.
Last edited by rix; 06-28-2017 at 03:19 AM.
#118
The clutch is great, one of my favorite things about the car. The way it shifts with the Tilton is shocking. If you scroll up somewhere in the thread there is video of the 4-5 shift. Although I'd heard people say it before, I had not realized how big of a difference it would make.
From a drivability standpoint it feels like a stock clutch. It slips smooth as silk. The pedal effort is very low as well. In fact, if it were any lower it might be difficult to drive. Engagement window is good, it is not an on/off switch. I can literally let off the clutch from idle without touching the gas to take off from a stop.
The only question mark is how well it wears, but the way I drive it I expect it to last a long time before it needs service/shimming. I'll find out at the end of the year, which unless something unexpected happens is the next time I plan on having the transmission out of the car.
The way I look at it is you can spend ~6500 on the Tilton and know you have the best clutch out there, great drivability, and great shifting. When people are losing syncros in high horsepower builds that's directly related to how well the clutch unloads and releases. I suspect the trans will live a lot longer with this clutch than others.
Or you can spend ~4500 on an ERP carbon clutch, be wary of revisions, and know that engagement window isn't ideal. Then you spend $135 on the RSS clutch stop (it comes with the Tilton kit from Evospec), and $1200 on the clutch slave cylinder from BBi. I have no personal experience with the BBi slave, but talking to a good friend who has one scared me off. He was in the 1000whp+ Supra crowd for years and knows what he's doing. Has an '07 Turbo with bolt ons now. He said the pedal effort on the BBi slave was very high and he didn't like it. You're into it for ~$5800. I think it's too much of a compromise in reliability, performance, and peace of mind.
Or you can spend ~4500 and get the twin disc Protomotive/Driversource clutch. I have no experience with it, but Jordon is running it here locally and DFW and likes it. Steve says it works, Protomotive says it works. Drivability is good, engagement window is good. You still need the clutch stop and clutch slave cylinder conversion. It's even money with the ERP, but probably doesn't hold as much torque and certainly doesn't release as well as the Tilton. It does however drive like a stock clutch, and as long as you're not launching the car all the time it will work well.
You're really talking about a $700 difference when you compare it apples to apples. My argument is just suck it up and buy the Tilton. Even if you have to shim it once a year I think that's an acceptable service life given the criteria. For a daily driver I'd probably go with the Protomotive twin from Steve. He does modify them slightly, although I don't know what he does. They are running quite a few of them in the Houston cars and they work. I've just seen too many failures and problems with the ERP to make it feel worth it.
My only nagging issue with the Protomotive setup is the value proposition, it's effectively a modified stock style clutch setup to accept two stock style discs. I have the same issue with it as I had with the Protomotive intake parts, a high price with a lower materials cost. Just doesn't strike me as a good value. Just my opinion.
From a drivability standpoint it feels like a stock clutch. It slips smooth as silk. The pedal effort is very low as well. In fact, if it were any lower it might be difficult to drive. Engagement window is good, it is not an on/off switch. I can literally let off the clutch from idle without touching the gas to take off from a stop.
The only question mark is how well it wears, but the way I drive it I expect it to last a long time before it needs service/shimming. I'll find out at the end of the year, which unless something unexpected happens is the next time I plan on having the transmission out of the car.
The way I look at it is you can spend ~6500 on the Tilton and know you have the best clutch out there, great drivability, and great shifting. When people are losing syncros in high horsepower builds that's directly related to how well the clutch unloads and releases. I suspect the trans will live a lot longer with this clutch than others.
Or you can spend ~4500 on an ERP carbon clutch, be wary of revisions, and know that engagement window isn't ideal. Then you spend $135 on the RSS clutch stop (it comes with the Tilton kit from Evospec), and $1200 on the clutch slave cylinder from BBi. I have no personal experience with the BBi slave, but talking to a good friend who has one scared me off. He was in the 1000whp+ Supra crowd for years and knows what he's doing. Has an '07 Turbo with bolt ons now. He said the pedal effort on the BBi slave was very high and he didn't like it. You're into it for ~$5800. I think it's too much of a compromise in reliability, performance, and peace of mind.
Or you can spend ~4500 and get the twin disc Protomotive/Driversource clutch. I have no experience with it, but Jordon is running it here locally and DFW and likes it. Steve says it works, Protomotive says it works. Drivability is good, engagement window is good. You still need the clutch stop and clutch slave cylinder conversion. It's even money with the ERP, but probably doesn't hold as much torque and certainly doesn't release as well as the Tilton. It does however drive like a stock clutch, and as long as you're not launching the car all the time it will work well.
You're really talking about a $700 difference when you compare it apples to apples. My argument is just suck it up and buy the Tilton. Even if you have to shim it once a year I think that's an acceptable service life given the criteria. For a daily driver I'd probably go with the Protomotive twin from Steve. He does modify them slightly, although I don't know what he does. They are running quite a few of them in the Houston cars and they work. I've just seen too many failures and problems with the ERP to make it feel worth it.
My only nagging issue with the Protomotive setup is the value proposition, it's effectively a modified stock style clutch setup to accept two stock style discs. I have the same issue with it as I had with the Protomotive intake parts, a high price with a lower materials cost. Just doesn't strike me as a good value. Just my opinion.
#119
I love threads like these, a few points:
- the bbi slave mod is not as bad as people make it to be, yes you notice a big difference the first time you drive it, but you very quickly get used to it, feels just like driving a 3RS for the very first time ...
- the proto twin, it works!! Also not that expensive, its around 1800 if you send your own RS flywheel and 764 pplate ....
Great thread I keep going back to your pivs I love your attention to details
- the bbi slave mod is not as bad as people make it to be, yes you notice a big difference the first time you drive it, but you very quickly get used to it, feels just like driving a 3RS for the very first time ...
- the proto twin, it works!! Also not that expensive, its around 1800 if you send your own RS flywheel and 764 pplate ....
Great thread I keep going back to your pivs I love your attention to details