Now that my performance targets and reliability issues have been addressed on my recently purchased 997.1 Turbo the final remaining issue is the awful sound system. I want to toss the factory H.U. speakers, amp and sub and install some decent aftermarket components with modern features. I do not care about the PCM integration with the dash display which is pretty limited on the 07. I'm looking at a Pioneer or Alpine double din setup, Focal separates in front, coaxial fill speakers in the rear and a pair of JL Audio 8" subs in place of the bose box in a custom enclosure. They will all be powered by a single appropriately sized JL 4.1 amp. Nothing too crazy.
Wiring the power and RCA connectors between the new H.U and amp is straighforward. Where I am trying to avoid running wires is from the new amp to the speakers in the doors and rear. If I can I'd like to re-use the sub wire as well but that isn't a big issue since I can just run some decent wire down the center console to the custom sub enclosure behind the rear seats. The hardest part is figuring out where to tap the speakers in the doors as running new leads from the speakers in the doors to the Focal passive crossovers in the trunk will be a nightmare. The same goes for the rear L+R fill speakers but to a lesser degree.
Does anyone know which color wires coming off the factory Bose amp drive the woofer and midrange in the doors? If I had this information I could easily splice them into the mid and bass outputs on the L+R crossovers. The tweeters in the dash are a pretty short run from the trunk through the firewall so less of a concern.
The previous owner installed some kind of 3rd party speaker to line out device called "LC8i" connected to the Bose amp and using an Alpine 4channel amp to power MB Quart separates and the rear factory sub but it is the worst of all worlds. Crappy HU function, hum at low volume, no bass, no fader control. Awful sound with 8-bit graphics and glacial nav system response. It also looks like a terrible self install job so I just tore it all out while installing an Aquamist system last month. The wiring performed by the previous owner wasn't just poorly done but also dangerous. I'm surprised it didn't have an electrical fire after looking at how they ran the power to the amp and line-out converter box straight off the battery with no grommets through the firewall and loose strands of copper hanging out of the positive lead in multiple locations.
Any help with the speaker wire colors to the factory amp output would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'm in the midst of this as well. I've not found anything concrete, but the BOSE amp adapter I bought has a wiring diagram that's close. I've found this as well.

 

I bought my Pioneer AVIC8500NEX, with all adapters & kits, from Crutchfield. About $1300 all in, plus a day or so for install, which is easy. After the install, I decided the sound still sucked. I happen to come into an old audio system, and decided to transplant it. The crossover is bad, but have one incoming. I'll be testing the system outside the car early next week. I'll be keeping the Bose speakers for now.

 

The factory wiring from the Bose amp to the speakers is copper, so you're good there. The factory Sub is self powered and has it's own amp inside I believe, so you'll have to run some wiring back there, but that's easy.

 

I bought this kit specifically for the big Bose adapter pigtail.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Stere...e/392328706596


No cutting factory stuff.

 

I bought a couple of these too, but now that I've eliminated the Nav & Amp (CD changer was already ready nixxed for the Mobridge that was in the car), I likely won't need them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOST-Fiber-...72.m2749.l2648

 

Amp, Nav/DVD, CD player...




That came out of here...

 

Used this to ring out my speakers.. I now have all my pairs identified.

 

Thanks for all the great replies! I am especially grateful for the wiring diagram and confirmation about the copper wires exiting the stock Bose amp. After removing the stock amp, nav unit, head unit , sub box and speakers and adding the new head unit, amp and speakers the net weight gain will be about 20lbs due to the heavier subs and enclosure. Even with an unmuffled 3" x-pipe a similar setup made great sound in my 996T. I don't need to rattle any windows but I do like to hear the full spectrum of sound when I listen to music and it is possible in the small cabin of these cars with enough power and decent speakers. 20 pounds isn't something I will notice and to me it is worth it.

 

In the 6-7 years I owned my 996tt, I never listened to the "stereo", or whatever that was.

I expect to install everything in the picture above, (2 main amps, a sub amp, an equalizer and crossover and maybe the Subs), and will weigh whatever I install. I'm also doing rods and studs, so expect to pick up a few HP, so likely the extra 30-40lbs won't be noticeable...

 

Good luck with your install. I’m sure with all the gear you’re installing you will have a great sounding system once you’re finished. The only good thing about my 996 stock unit was the ease of replacing it because it was an 02 and didn’t have any fiber optic cables.