So I just got my daily driver (2008 Audi S4 Avant), so now it's time to start modifying the P-Car. I want a fun canyon carver (In other words, bad roads) and a track machine. Here is my plan, and please feel free to add your input!

GT3 Front Bumper
GT3 RS rear wing or Techart Type 1?
GMG roll bar
GmG Suspension everything
Bilstein Damptronics
H&R sway cars
Red tail lights
Cloth GT3 seats or leather?
Fire Extinguisher
OMP Harnesses
BBS LM's or Volk Racng TE-37 to save weigh?
Bronze Motorsport finish on the wheels?

Im Already running AWE headers and Mufflers....Damnb it sounds good! I Don't need engine change although a reflash is never out of the question. The car is plenty fast enough as is!

Any ideas or comments?

JT

 

I'd visit your local Porsche race preparation shop and get their opinion. Looks like a mixed bag on your list. For example, I don't think the front bumper and wing is going to do anything for you. Red tail lights? I'd get on the list for a set of OEM GT2 seats (that's what I'm waiting for).

I've heard good things about the Damptronics...

My mods for the track to date: GT3 Cup control arms w/ 3mm shims (-2 front, -1.8 rear), PFC97 pads, Castrol SRF fluid (no need for ss lines), AWE headers, cats, mufflers, REVO software, Fikse Profil 13 in 18x8.5 and 18x11, Toyo RA1 in 245/305, CGLock (waiting for GT2 seats - I want the light shell with the thorax airbag).

Also, I wouldn't do one thing until you have put say 20 hours on the track in the car as it is. Once you've fully learned the car's limitations, then you will have a better idea of what it needs. Take your time...

 

BEST ADVISE of the day. i totally agree with you on this Ron

 

Great advice Ron.

 

The need for speed = GT3

 

Oh I totally agree on the training. I've done numerous track days and lots of long cross country drives. I Even went to the Bondurant driving courses. I Just want to stiffen up the chassis get grippier seats, and fix a little bit up the unsettling that I've been getting on the rough country roads I hit on a regular basis. Thanks for the input everybody! And as they always say: The best modification is to the driver

Another Quick question:

Some jackass backed in to me and broke the tail light, thus giving me a chance to try the solid red tequipment ones. I'm handy with tools and such, but does anyone have any tips on removing the old lights? Thanks again

JT

 

How about trading it in for a low mileage GT3?

 

The rear tail light removal is a very simple DIY job. Open trunk and you will see the hardware that mounts the lights. The manual shows removing the single center bolt of the three bolts on each light. I have always just loosened the two outer bolts of the three. Once the bolts are out or loosened, the lights slide straight out only held in with a clip so a slight pull is only needed. Next, remove the connectors and replace with new lights in reverse order.

Have fun!

 

How many track days do you have in your Porsche? What run group are you in? You most likely do not ned to modify your Porsche unless you just want to and have money to burn.

I've been at the track thing since 2006 and have progrssed fairly quickly up the ranks so I'm told. I still have tons to learn and am loving every minute of it. A stock 997S is very fast and truely beyond most of all our ability to ring out 100% 10/10ths drivng on the track.

I did the PFC97 pads, Fabspeed mufflers (so I can hear the rpm's) CG-Locks, CCW 18" lightweight wheels and Toyo RA1 tires.

 

Well, I actually almost had the chance to buy a GT3 RS, but I just missed it. It was at the dealer, with very low miles, but I was picking up the Audi that day.2 cars in 1 day would really **** off the wife!

Thanks for the info 08 c4s. Ill switch them after the car gets detailed.

I wanted to change the suspension because I have managed to put 23,000 miles on the car in just one year of ownership. With the H and R drop springs, with the rough roads I live around I can tell that the shock absorbers are getting tired, thus the odd body movement. With the Bilsteins, I can have the best of both worlds: Good ride comfort, and height adjustability, with shocks that are set to match the varying heights. The roll Bar is For Torsional stiffness, the car seems a little flexy and creaky when its working really hard. Hope you're not asleep yet!

Thanks for the replys

JT

 

Here in CT we have several great Porsche shops - places that set up 997 cars for the race track. Names include Farnbacher Loles, Dan Jacobs, Auto Associates, Musante, to name just a few independents. I wouldn't do anything (like lowering springs) without consulting with guys like these that have extensive experience with the 997 platform. For example, when I asked FBL about options for suspension, they said absolutely not to lowering springs because the shocks and springs were designed together as a system and the lowering springs were bad news in that context. They did, however, say they know and like the Bilstein Damptronic for PASM system. I asked about different sways and they said "only if you change the suspension" because again - oem is a matched system. My point on all of this is to not trust what various guys like us from all over the world might throw at you, but to trust your local shop that builds 997 race cars and tunes 997 products for street, track, or a combination.

 

I agree with just about all this. However, I don't agree that the need for speed = GT3. Many of you might have seen all my posts where I recently am trying to decide whether or not I should sell my modded S and buy a GT3 to start all over again with. However, in my track time (just this year but I got relatively quick) I did form a good amount of opinions to the various mods you have listed. I've just about done it all.

I have the Bilstiens, the GMG sways, the Cup control arms, the GMG dog bones,the racing seats (more hard core now than those you mention), the OMP harnesses, and even the GT3 nose and TE-37s. These suspension and tire/wheel mods dropped me drastically in my lap times (of course, being 'set up' by a reputable shop such as Synergy Racing had MUCH to do with that). The Bilstiens are a wonderful mix of street comfort and livability and I highly suggest them with the sways and such. You don't have to go to the control arms and dog bones unless you will be asking your shop to do a pretty 'track oriented' alignment to your car, which makes it harder to live with on the street but incredible on the track. Camber and toe are wonderful. They also help you put down your power out of turns, which is needed if you run high power and don't have an LSD. Have you considered having an LSD installed? That should maybe be on your radar.

I would reflash the engine. It really is cheap horsepower and really brings out the personality of your car too. My opinion.

I will be 'stepping up' from the Bilstiens to Ohlins in the coming month or two. However long it takes Ohlins and Synergy to build my stuff. I have a friend online that expressed interest (or made an offer, that is) on my Bilstiens for PASM. If you want to PM me, I'll let you know when they come off if the other brother doesn't need them any more. That'll save you a few thousand. Then, you can take that money and have an LSD installed. I'm just now getting to that. But driving a car without it (and with 500HP) and then getting in one WITH it was like night and day.

But as these other guys have said... hook up with a real shop right now, from the beginning. FBL knows their stuff SO well. They're a dominant force in racing and consciously keep their retail side on the street cars, unlike Synergy who I use. They make track cars. I was actually the first car to leave their shop (they've been around for quite some time too) with the carpet still intact.

BUT, don't do the suspension stuff if you're just going to get on the track 6 or 8 times a year. Maybe do the Bilstiens and don't do the rest. It's not worth it, and you'll never know the difference.

That's my opinion.

I'm Jared Cullop, and I endorse this message.

PRAY FOR IOWA!

 

RSS Plenum! Check out the group buy going on right now... best bang for the buck!

 

Jared do you have your car re-aligned for the street when you aren't driving on the track or do you drive around on the race alignment?

 

I have my car set up about 50/50. I've got about -2 degrees front and -1.8 degrees rear camber (full track would be maybe -3/-2.8). Aggressive street might be -0.8 (which is about where oem control arms max out). I've got about 7500 miles on my car with about 50/50 track vs. street use. No problems with tire wear issues. A little more wear on the outside on track and a little more on inside on street due to camber. Even Steven.

About the Plenum - I know we've all read lots about them at the forums, but I haven't heard anything good about them from P-car racers, tuners, track guys, etc. I asked a couple of tuners I know and both said "not worth the bother - won't sell or install one..."