Vf Supercharger install(do it yourself style)
#136
01-20-2009, 08:25 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 2,370
Rep Power: 327 
Both the new lines should be secured better than they appear to be. The line WILL move and they WILL rub against the cross members. If, for some reason (which in reality does not exist) you feel there is a benefit from keeping each hose seperate from each other, don't reinvent the wheel. There are plenty of rubber, foam, plastic, etc, hose seperators available as well as pipe sleeves and grommets. Look at your picture and you will see that there are several installed by Porsche under the car.
More important is to secure the hoses and protect them from chaffing. You can cut a plastic conduit or PVC pipe in half and put it on the hoses above the cross overs and tape them together. Job done.
More important is to secure the hoses and protect them from chaffing. You can cut a plastic conduit or PVC pipe in half and put it on the hoses above the cross overs and tape them together. Job done.
Under the car the factory coolant lines are held with a bracket as well(not tape or ty-straps) and I just wanted to follow the same ideas as best I could.
As far as keeping the hoses seperated,we were making the clamp anyway.It doesn't cost anymore to do them 'seperated or together'.
I guess these clamps are like the like the E-Z springs.....probably didn't need them but again... for a few extra dollars....why not?
BTW Thank-you very much for all of your help behind the scenes as well!
Stacy is not about just doing the job, and getting it to work, then going out to play with his new toy. If you have seen his thread about the winter detailing and his comments on how and when he drives his car, you will know that this project is about the challenge of installing it properly, as well as doing it to the point were it will be in show car condition. This is the type of stuff that people put mirrors under there car for at shows...this is the only way that he knows how to do things. He wants a 10 out of 10 for cool factor, and he knows how to achieve it.
On the other hand most of us (and I know this will make Stacy cringe) would throw these pipes in and think that the job that Stacy has done was more then enough. Then we would go out and drive like a mad man.
Is it overkill to use these brackets, I think so. However I don't think that Stacy would agree with me.
On the other hand most of us (and I know this will make Stacy cringe) would throw these pipes in and think that the job that Stacy has done was more then enough. Then we would go out and drive like a mad man.
Is it overkill to use these brackets, I think so. However I don't think that Stacy would agree with me.
Yeah it may be over-kill but it is done to the standard that I think this car deserves!
Oh also, 5 of these clamps cost me less than all of the E-Z springs I used!
I believe the clamps will run me $120(give or take)...on the grand scale of things is 'NOTHING' to what this complete mod is worth.
If you had the choice knowing the minimum dollars involved to make these clamps,wouldn't you!?
So I wouldn't do it any other way!
But yes that is JUST me !
Stacy
PS I thought you guys would have been more impressed with this,WOW.tough crowd here,LOL!
I will keep trying though!
Last edited by justatoy; 01-20-2009 at 04:45 PM.
#137
01-20-2009, 09:42 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Southern California
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I think I speak for many of us when I say, trust me we are impressed.
j/k
#140
01-24-2009, 02:03 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 2,370
Rep Power: 327 Align the alternator in the proper position with bolt in place before bolting compressor on. Make an alignment mark at the pivot point. Remove bolt and keep alternator snug and it makes it easier to mount the unit. Install and hand tighten the right mounting bolt and the top bolt and then pivot alternator and screw in bottom bolt. The method eliminates the need for more than 2 hands.
This has been the hardest part of the install for me so far!
Aligning all the bolts,belt,and actually getting in to turn these bolts tight,UNBELIEVABLE!
Every part of this step has been a nightmare,LOL!
Here is a pic of the charger in place,I will elaborate later tonight or tomorrow(way to wound up/frustrated right now to get my words straight),LOL!
I need to clean-up this mess (garage floor) before I continue,can't stand it any longer !
#142
01-24-2009, 03:34 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 2,370
Rep Power: 327
I cannot see where this hose needs to attach too.....?
Any help would be appreciated yet again!
It says
Attach the throttle body vacuum adapter(with fittings) suuplied in the kit to the throttle body.Connect small rubber hose that was once connected to the plastic cranckcase hose to the lower fitting adapter.
I did this but wonder where the other end (that I am pointing at) goes?
*******Does it connect to the lead off of the bypass valve?*******
Any help would be appreciated yet again!
It says
Attach the throttle body vacuum adapter(with fittings) suuplied in the kit to the throttle body.Connect small rubber hose that was once connected to the plastic cranckcase hose to the lower fitting adapter.
I did this but wonder where the other end (that I am pointing at) goes?
*******Does it connect to the lead off of the bypass valve?*******
Last edited by justatoy; 01-24-2009 at 05:59 PM.
#144
01-24-2009, 05:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,134
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Take a wider picture and post so I can see all lines.
Last edited by 1999Porsche911; 01-24-2009 at 08:17 PM.
#145
01-24-2009, 08:15 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicagoland
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That hose connects to the EGR valve that is positioned over the alternator. It has an electric cable attached to it and on the throttlebody side of the valve there is a check valve with an arror pointed towards the throttlebody. Connect it there.
Last edited by 1999Porsche911; 01-25-2009 at 06:12 AM.
#146
01-25-2009, 06:14 AM
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Location: Greater Philadelphia Region
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Stacy,
The next time your under your car would you mind taking a picture of where the jack stand meets the unibody? I'm always doubtful about how / where the jackstand should go. Thanks, Bill
The next time your under your car would you mind taking a picture of where the jack stand meets the unibody? I'm always doubtful about how / where the jackstand should go. Thanks, Bill
#147
01-25-2009, 03:17 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 2,370
Rep Power: 327 It the pic below it looks done but I was just seeing where everything goes and checking clearances.It is one tight fit!
I am not looking forward to cleaning/changing the air filter!
I think I need to trim a couple of hoses(charge hoses)...I would like to bring the IC closer to the centre line of the car.It seems to be hitting the hood shock and this,I think,will help gain the room needed.
My question is why could the air filter not be right at the back of the engine bay,so when you open it,it is right there?!
I wouldn't think the air is any cooler in the corner where they have it (or is the air temp) that much different?!
Last edited by justatoy; 01-25-2009 at 03:26 PM.
#148
01-25-2009, 05:35 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicagoland
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The air filter is in the hottest part of the engine compartment. Intake air can reach 70F+ above ambient while in traffic and about 30F above at speed. However, changes can be made to reduce that temperature to about 10F above ambient.
Yes, you could swap the air filter with the cooler but you would have to extend the system's plumbing as well as introduce additional bends. This would greatly reduce the amount of compressed air that would get to the engine.
Yes, you could swap the air filter with the cooler but you would have to extend the system's plumbing as well as introduce additional bends. This would greatly reduce the amount of compressed air that would get to the engine.
#149
01-25-2009, 05:46 PM
The air filter is in the hottest part of the engine compartment. Intake air can reach 70F+ above ambient while in traffic and about 30F above at speed. However, changes can be made to reduce that temperature to about 10F above ambient.
Yes, you could swap the air filter with the cooler but you would have to extend the system's plumbing as well as introduce additional bends. This would greatly reduce the amount of compressed air that would get to the engine.
Yes, you could swap the air filter with the cooler but you would have to extend the system's plumbing as well as introduce additional bends. This would greatly reduce the amount of compressed air that would get to the engine.
Also, what are you thoughts about changing the intake plumbing. I have a "whale tail" on my car. There is a hollow compartment inside it. I had thought about having my shop cut a hole large enough to accommodate the filter, with the filter essentially sticking straight up out of the engine compartment. Normally it wouldn't work on most cars, but with that style wing it may work. My biggest concern is water ingestion during rain.
Thoughts??
#150
01-25-2009, 05:51 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,134
Rep Power: 122 What sort of changes do you suggest?
Also, what are you thoughts about changing the intake plumbing. I have a "whale tail" on my car. There is a hollow compartment inside it. I had thought about having my shop cut a hole large enough to accommodate the filter, with the filter essentially sticking straight up out of the engine compartment. Normally it wouldn't work on most cars, but with that style wing it may work. My biggest concern is water ingestion during rain.
Thoughts??
Also, what are you thoughts about changing the intake plumbing. I have a "whale tail" on my car. There is a hollow compartment inside it. I had thought about having my shop cut a hole large enough to accommodate the filter, with the filter essentially sticking straight up out of the engine compartment. Normally it wouldn't work on most cars, but with that style wing it may work. My biggest concern is water ingestion during rain.
Thoughts??