997 S as track tool
#1
997 S as track tool
Hello guys,
I have just purchased a 2005 997 S, that I wish to use as a track tool. Hope some experienced trackers, can provide me with some assistance.
I'm looking for opinions, regarding suspension and tires.
The car has PSE/PASM and 19" GT3 wheels, with tires that are not suitable for track. (perfect for street use tough)
Suspension. What's important? I take it the car needs more camber in the front? How much? Where can I find info on that? Is the firm setting of the PASM intresting for track use? Or does the stock suspension needs to be swapped? With regular coilovers or coilovers that support PASM?
Tires. Should I buy 18" wheels? For weight and cost of tires? What sizes do I want? (offset, width) I don't really care what they look like. I can swap to the 19" GT3 wheels for street use. What kind of tires should I consider? Most Porsche drivers I know are happy with the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. Alternatives?
I have just purchased a 2005 997 S, that I wish to use as a track tool. Hope some experienced trackers, can provide me with some assistance.
I'm looking for opinions, regarding suspension and tires.
The car has PSE/PASM and 19" GT3 wheels, with tires that are not suitable for track. (perfect for street use tough)
Suspension. What's important? I take it the car needs more camber in the front? How much? Where can I find info on that? Is the firm setting of the PASM intresting for track use? Or does the stock suspension needs to be swapped? With regular coilovers or coilovers that support PASM?
Tires. Should I buy 18" wheels? For weight and cost of tires? What sizes do I want? (offset, width) I don't really care what they look like. I can swap to the 19" GT3 wheels for street use. What kind of tires should I consider? Most Porsche drivers I know are happy with the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. Alternatives?
#2
Do a search here and especially at RennList - literally dozens of us have posted our thoughts on this subject and you'll find lots of information, photos, etc. I loved my 997S on the track. Summary:
GT3 control arms up front for camber.
Stock suspension is fine, just need a good alignment.
Avoid PASM aftermarket suspension - worse than stock on the track.
GT3 wheels are terrible - replace them ASAP (they are extremely heavy). Try a set of Volks in either 18 or 19.
Upgrade fluid to Castrol SRF, no need for stainless lines as OEM are fantastic.
Will eventually need race pads - 2005-2008 997S likes Pagid Yellow 29 front, Black 14 rear.
Tires - too many opinions - depends on how far you want to go and what your skill level is. If just starting, stick with streets. If advanced, R888 on 19 is popular, Nitto / R888 / RA1 on 18 is popular. If racing, Hoosiers.
Start off slowly, get the camber fixed and go try the car. Only you can tell what the car needs for you behind the wheel. The car is wicked fast and unless you've been tracking for say 3-5 years minimum, bone stock will be more car than you need.
GT3 control arms up front for camber.
Stock suspension is fine, just need a good alignment.
Avoid PASM aftermarket suspension - worse than stock on the track.
GT3 wheels are terrible - replace them ASAP (they are extremely heavy). Try a set of Volks in either 18 or 19.
Upgrade fluid to Castrol SRF, no need for stainless lines as OEM are fantastic.
Will eventually need race pads - 2005-2008 997S likes Pagid Yellow 29 front, Black 14 rear.
Tires - too many opinions - depends on how far you want to go and what your skill level is. If just starting, stick with streets. If advanced, R888 on 19 is popular, Nitto / R888 / RA1 on 18 is popular. If racing, Hoosiers.
Start off slowly, get the camber fixed and go try the car. Only you can tell what the car needs for you behind the wheel. The car is wicked fast and unless you've been tracking for say 3-5 years minimum, bone stock will be more car than you need.
#3
+1 on what Ron says.
I'd like to add that if you are just starting out with tracking the car then it will be perfectly fine and faster than what you will be able to drive around a track for a while.
However some tips I would give you is all you really need to do as a starter with a 997S at track days is:
1-flush the brake fluid and put in either Motul 600 or Castrol SRF...Moutl600 is a lot less and all you will ever need for a long time.
2- get the alignment re-done. Have your Porsche mechanic max out the front camber which should be around negitive .08 and you might get it to -1. Have them put in negitive .5 more rear camber to make the rear at -1.5. For better turn in and especially better tire wear have them match the toe bothe side to right around zero toe for the fronts and .10-.14 toe in the rear
3- go to your track day with an open mind like you've never driven a car before, get a good nights sleep and eat right and hydrate yourself.
After you've done 3-5 track days and have advanced then you can try out some race pads and stickier tires but personally I'd stick with stock tires and pads for at least 5-10 events depending on how you advance.
CCW wheels or Volk wheels are what I'd look at with Toyo R888 tires. You can drive to the track on these but you will not want to make these your everyday street tire. Swapping out brake pads on these cars is so very simple and fast.
best of luck! Mike
I'd like to add that if you are just starting out with tracking the car then it will be perfectly fine and faster than what you will be able to drive around a track for a while.
However some tips I would give you is all you really need to do as a starter with a 997S at track days is:
1-flush the brake fluid and put in either Motul 600 or Castrol SRF...Moutl600 is a lot less and all you will ever need for a long time.
2- get the alignment re-done. Have your Porsche mechanic max out the front camber which should be around negitive .08 and you might get it to -1. Have them put in negitive .5 more rear camber to make the rear at -1.5. For better turn in and especially better tire wear have them match the toe bothe side to right around zero toe for the fronts and .10-.14 toe in the rear
3- go to your track day with an open mind like you've never driven a car before, get a good nights sleep and eat right and hydrate yourself.
After you've done 3-5 track days and have advanced then you can try out some race pads and stickier tires but personally I'd stick with stock tires and pads for at least 5-10 events depending on how you advance.
CCW wheels or Volk wheels are what I'd look at with Toyo R888 tires. You can drive to the track on these but you will not want to make these your everyday street tire. Swapping out brake pads on these cars is so very simple and fast.
best of luck! Mike
#4
Avoid PASM aftermarket suspension - worse than stock on the track.
GT3 wheels are terrible - replace them ASAP (they are extremely heavy). Try a set of Volks in either 18 or 19.
Upgrade fluid to Castrol SRF, no need for stainless lines as OEM are fantastic.
Will eventually need race pads - 2005-2008 997S likes Pagid Yellow 29 front, Black 14 rear.
Tires - too many opinions - depends on how far you want to go and what your skill level is. If just starting, stick with streets. If advanced, R888 on 19 is popular, Nitto / R888 / RA1 on 18 is popular. If racing, Hoosiers.
GT3 wheels are terrible - replace them ASAP (they are extremely heavy). Try a set of Volks in either 18 or 19.
Upgrade fluid to Castrol SRF, no need for stainless lines as OEM are fantastic.
Will eventually need race pads - 2005-2008 997S likes Pagid Yellow 29 front, Black 14 rear.
Tires - too many opinions - depends on how far you want to go and what your skill level is. If just starting, stick with streets. If advanced, R888 on 19 is popular, Nitto / R888 / RA1 on 18 is popular. If racing, Hoosiers.
The GT3 wheels are heavy, but is a few extra pounds per corner going to make a huge difference when this person is just starting out? The are strong and can take a pounding that the track can hand out.
Stainless steel brake lines are another mod that I really like, my pedal stays consistant all day, I change my fluid after every one or two days, in is cheap insurance, and nothing would suck more then having your pedal go to the floor when you really need your brakes.
Michelin Pilot Sport Cups are another tire option, not too good in the wet, and wear quickly, but handle well in the dry. I also liked the Yokohama 048's good wet and dry, very similar to the Toyo 888 pattern.
#5
I am no expert like Ed, Ron and Mike.
My club coupe is totally stock, and I'm tracking at intermediate level. I can assure you that it really is more car than you can handle.
You really should go out a few times in stock form before you'll know what mods you may or may not need.
My club coupe is totally stock, and I'm tracking at intermediate level. I can assure you that it really is more car than you can handle.
You really should go out a few times in stock form before you'll know what mods you may or may not need.
#6
I am no expert like Ed, Ron and Mike.
My club coupe is totally stock, and I'm tracking at intermediate level. I can assure you that it really is more car than you can handle.
You really should go out a few times in stock form before you'll know what mods you may or may not need.
My club coupe is totally stock, and I'm tracking at intermediate level. I can assure you that it really is more car than you can handle.
You really should go out a few times in stock form before you'll know what mods you may or may not need.
#7
Everything is relative... When I started DE I was happy to get a 1:15 lap at Lime Rock. A year later, 1:10 and a year after that 1:05, which is where things ended with my M3. First laps with the 997S were 1:05 and I'd never driven a Porsche quickly never mind at a track. 1:05 turned into 1:02 the next season. Now I'm hoping for 10ths of a second improvement.
So, as we are all suggesting, the bone stock 997S is a very potent track car just as it is with the tires the car came with. Most people will drive a bone stock 997S for a couple of years in DE as they move toward the intermediate level and by then they now know from experience what they sense and want to improve. First will probably be understeer and that's solved with camber via GT3 control arms. Next will probably be brakes as you'll be glazing up rotors / going through stock pads. Fluid is next, but OEM is really quite good fluid. Tires may be last - when you really can make the car do anything you want and are truly out of tire (vs. just over-driving them), then upgrade to moderate R-comps (R888 vs. Hoosiers).
So, as we are all suggesting, the bone stock 997S is a very potent track car just as it is with the tires the car came with. Most people will drive a bone stock 997S for a couple of years in DE as they move toward the intermediate level and by then they now know from experience what they sense and want to improve. First will probably be understeer and that's solved with camber via GT3 control arms. Next will probably be brakes as you'll be glazing up rotors / going through stock pads. Fluid is next, but OEM is really quite good fluid. Tires may be last - when you really can make the car do anything you want and are truly out of tire (vs. just over-driving them), then upgrade to moderate R-comps (R888 vs. Hoosiers).
Trending Topics
#8
Ron if you didn't go with the GT3 control arms for the additional camber, what about more rubber up front to compensate for the push? I love the way the cup cars look with the 9" front and 255 tire up front. I'm thinking a set of CCW's in 9" wide fronts with a 255/35/19 front.
Dave
Dave
#9
I don't think it works that way... Camber is about the angle of the wheel / tire to the pavement.
My GT3 Fikse wheels are 18x9 front and currently have 245 Hoosiers on them. Many report to use 255s up there.
My GT3 Fikse wheels are 18x9 front and currently have 245 Hoosiers on them. Many report to use 255s up there.
#10
Did you sell the GT3 wheels? If not I am interested in them.
Dave
#12
Ron if you didn't go with the GT3 control arms for the additional camber, what about more rubber up front to compensate for the push? I love the way the cup cars look with the 9" front and 255 tire up front. I'm thinking a set of CCW's in 9" wide fronts with a 255/35/19 front.
Dave
Dave
#13
Dave
#14
I have a 997s that I have done the following for the track:
1. Camber adjustment (maxed out front & back)
2. Brake Fluid change
3. Rennline Pedals
4. Cold Air Intake
I'm a pretty decent driver for being new to racing in the last 6+ months, with 1-2 track events/month. (From feedback from instructors).
I run with stock tires PS2's.
I can honestly say that mine pretty stock 997s is more car than I can currently handle. The car is limited by me not me by the car.
I think in a years time and a lot of seat time I might be able to reverse that .... but until then I will not do any more mods.
After that point though I have planned:
- GT3 control arms & dogbones
- GT3 Sway Bars
- Coilovers (PSS10 Damptronics)
- 18" Lightweight wheels
- R comp tires
After that the car will be back in control and I will have to try to tame it once again.
1. Camber adjustment (maxed out front & back)
2. Brake Fluid change
3. Rennline Pedals
4. Cold Air Intake
I'm a pretty decent driver for being new to racing in the last 6+ months, with 1-2 track events/month. (From feedback from instructors).
I run with stock tires PS2's.
I can honestly say that mine pretty stock 997s is more car than I can currently handle. The car is limited by me not me by the car.
I think in a years time and a lot of seat time I might be able to reverse that .... but until then I will not do any more mods.
After that point though I have planned:
- GT3 control arms & dogbones
- GT3 Sway Bars
- Coilovers (PSS10 Damptronics)
- 18" Lightweight wheels
- R comp tires
After that the car will be back in control and I will have to try to tame it once again.